cold air from aircon and warm air / heater stopped working at the same time. Any idea what I should be looking for to sort this. At first I thought the aircon just needed re-gassing then I realised the heater had stopped working too. Fans all work fine. Just no heat or cold. Is there anything specific to both that could be the cause?
bill-robinson,
Jun 11, 9:25am
ls the ducting in its proper place?
the-lada-dude,
Jun 11, 9:27am
is the engine running ?
friendly_prawn,
Jun 11, 9:28am
Engine running, ducting in place, car warmed up.
tamarillo,
Jun 11, 11:42am
Whatever is controlling what temp you get then. Probably electronic.
wheeler1,
Jun 11, 1:26pm
Could be a blocked cabin filter easy to check
friendly_prawn,
Jun 11, 3:09pm
Ok well things changed a little. On the way home tonight the heater suddenly started working but I also noticed the temp gauge shot up in to the red. There's a bit more going on than I thought. Going to have to get to the bottom of the overheating first. I guess my first step is to check to see its actually holding water, then check there's no water in the engine oil and chuck a new thermostat in it.
It never rains but it pours.
supernova2,
Jun 11, 7:02pm
But that doesn't explain the lack of aircon.
friendly_prawn,
Jun 12, 3:06am
Yes I know. But I cant see over heating and aircon being the same problem. Surely a separate issue.
shakespeare6,
Jun 12, 8:01am
No Heat- Subaru -Yakes! Blocked or poorly flowing heater core which will cause the engine to over heat. The coolant continuously flows through the heater core- temp is regulated by the condenser door. The coolant flowing through the heater core feeds the thermostat housing in the bottom of the engine. Blocked heater core will cause random over heating. I would remove both heater hoses middle of firewall and black flow water/ compressed air through the core - chances are you will get some rubbish blow out. Biggest cause of Subaru over heating and ultimately failure is a blocked heater core- its the last thing people usually look at.
flack88,
Jun 12, 10:06am
Be carful with the pressure on heater core flush they are fairly fragile things!
friendly_prawn,
Jun 16, 4:55am
Well the over heating was an easy fix. .Finally got around to looking at it. (had it parked up) Needed 5L's of water. No water in the oil. Parked the car up over concrete and ran it. No sign of any water leaks. Very weird. I think cooling will just need regassing. Running fine now, just going to keep an eye on the water level to see what happens. Cheers for the help guys.
the-lada-dude,
Jun 16, 5:28am
these cars are a bugger for cooling system airlocks
you can fill the buggers up, and they run great, nex minit the things boil and chuck all the fluid out . you gotta park 'em up a very steep incline nose first and get 'em hot ( thermostat open ) and keep on topping the radiator up
friendly_prawn,
Jun 16, 5:51am
cheers for that mate. I had been googling trying to find how to bleed the air locks out but hadnt found anything yet. So that does come in very handy. Kinda hard to tell but I think it does have an airlock as the water doesn't appear to be circulating. Just blowing bubbles if that makes sense. Doesn't over heat on a trip though. Will do as you suggest and see what comes of it. Cheers.
shakespeare6,
Jun 16, 9:10am
You wont see water in the oil or oil in the water when the head gaskets go on those. The blow out on the gasket ring between the water jacket and combustion chamber. The reason so many Subaru are miss diagnosed. They run fine in the early stages blown gaskets , however you will notice the cooling system pressurizes and bubbels and fills up the over flow and then when cold will suck it dry. They will also randomly over heat on a good hill or around town due to the air pockets in the cooling system.
shakespeare6,
Jun 16, 9:18am
Give the bottom radiator hose a good squeeze with rad cap off to push the air out and reach in and squeeze the heater hoses to push the air out. when you are squeezing the hose you should see the coolant level rising and falling showing you actually have coolant and not an air lock
friendly_prawn,
Jun 16, 12:42pm
Ouch, now you got me worried. Thanks, handy to know what to look out for.
Ha, I reckon. The funny part is the leak's not coming from the patch. It coming from the radiator / hose connection. I have been driving it for over a year with that patch in place. Its held up well.
I cant help but wonder, why the patch though? Risk cooking your engine for the price of a hose? I can only think the last owner must have struck a dodgy mechanic. Either that or he's an idiot.
jmma,
Oct 29, 7:46am
Just putting some strength into the bend :o)
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.