2006 Suzuki Swift - shuddering problem Page 1 / 2

kiwi-anna91, Oct 19, 8:27pm
I’ve had this 2006 Suzuki Swift, automatic, jap import, for about a year now.
I’m now stuck on how to fix this shuddering problem, so here’s the back story:
-About a year ago, I noticed when idling that it would cough/shudder inconsistently. Spark plugs were changed, problem back in a week.
-Idling sensor then changed. Problem back a week later.
-Mass flow air sensor cleaned. No change.
-Shuddering constantly when idling, a lot worse, would feel it cough when accelerating.
-Taken to auto electrician, recommend coil packs. Purchased coil packs, problem back in 4 days.
-Problem now way worse, can barely accelerate and lots of backfiring.
-Leads now changed. Fine in the morning, then problem started up again in the afternoon. Continual backfiring and acceleration problems.

I’m really stuck now what this could be. Is it as simple as now changing the spark plugs as perhaps they’ve been ruined from the old coil packs and old leads? I also find it unusual how it’ll be fine for about a week, and then it goes back to normal which suggests it is ignition related.

I have no error/light flashing on the dash.
Car is at 116,000km, automatic.
The shuddering became progressively worse over a year, and then in the last few weeks I’ve changed the coils packs and leads and now it’s dramatically worse and almost undriveable.

Any ideas would be great!

peanuts37, Oct 19, 8:30pm
Sounds like its running lean.

3tomany, Oct 19, 8:51pm
Sounds like every time they clear the codes it runs fine until it thinks it has a problem again. Just a guess as i am no mechanic.

poppy62, Oct 19, 8:54pm
Blocked/clogged fuel filter. May also be a electric fuel pump issue.

intrade, Oct 19, 9:12pm
alsorts also failing ecu is possible mitsubishi where world famous and now all manufacturer fit the trash mitsubishi used to fit in the 1990s- This makes mitsubishi now top cars because all other cars are the same trasheaps or worse.
The way to find the problem is by testing whats good one thing after the next till you find whats not good. 14 years is well in to computer death only old toyota from 1982 ecu made it to 2020 nothing modern will including corner cut budget engeneering new toyotas.

trade4us2, Oct 19, 9:14pm
I had all kinds of problems caused by the earth connection from the body computer. Both solder connections were broken. I also have a bad earth on the tail lights. So check all the earths!
So, have the engine idling, and wriggle all components and wiring and connections.

strobo, Oct 19, 10:22pm
so all that work was done and money spent when none found the cause of the problem in the first place ! ie is this what happens nowa days ? throw parts at it in the hope of a fix .I'm astounded. crikey. trying to fix it with a diagnostic tool !.anyway .First up I wanna know if a compression test was done or leak down. I actually suspect a few things but i always go for the fuel pump first esp if it's done over 100,00kms .A crook pump wont throw a mil.among other things.fuel system has service points too along the line from the pump filter forwards to the pressure regulator to .> inj/ rail and also check for contaminated fuel and if a new pump is to be fitted the tank needs cleaned right out esp around swirl pot below the pump the black scourge wiped out

franc123, Oct 19, 10:45pm
Last one of those I had with a similar problem to that it was the air flow meter. Replacing it was the solution, cleaning it wont help. Someone who is on to it enough who can monitor the output data with a scan tool should be able to pick it up, it won't necessarily throw fault codes.

strobo, Oct 19, 10:47pm
I see the belt that drives the cam needs replacement too! recommended at 100,000 kms. ie at idle side running on the slack ,timing out .Always do the scheduled service points "first" ! is really my best advice really before condemning electrical components.

franc123, Oct 19, 10:53pm
Actually it is possible for a faulty fuel pump to throw a fault code, if the fuel is being aerated or the pressure/flow is otherwise inadequate it can throw the fuel trims out far enough that the ECU cannot compensate for it any more, different systems may have slightly different correction factor thresholds for throwing the code though. Seen it more than once. using the tool can make you decide to investigate that side of it further.

redhead18, Oct 19, 11:14pm
Post Number Nine I M O Wins the choccy fish.
! Someone who is on to it enough who can monitor the output data with a scan tool should be able to pick it up!

kazbanz, Oct 20, 9:23am
It sounds to me that what is needed is someone to start again with this car with NO history provided. -Present the car with it faulting as it is. That will avowing any preconceived ideas they may have.
BUT my opinion is -First place I'd look is the Air flow meter and throttle body. I'd also suspect that at least one plug is fouled up from a faulty coil which when JUST the coil was replaced might have done the new coil in.

gazzat22, Oct 22, 11:10am
You,ve done just about everything to the ignition system with no result.I would change/replace the fuel filter.

tmenz, Oct 22, 5:26pm
Consider the Oxygen sensor(s)!

poppy62, Oct 22, 7:35pm
I recall something similar to this issue. Turned out to be water in the petrol tank.

kiwi-anna91, Oct 22, 9:25pm
Thanks for all the responses! Just to give you an update:
I went back to the auto electrician who had previously said it is likely the coil packs.
They did some pressure tests and said the issue is the fuel injectors. They sourced second hand ones for me and fitted them today. Alas, did not fix the issue. Still spluttering and backfiring. They said they will need to have another look and want to check the air flow and the ecg (?) valve. Another thing they said was it looks as though a mouse has gotten into the wiring and it’s been all chewed. They did put in some injector cleaner and the car runs way smoother, but could feel it coming back to normal (well the shuddering) after a couple of days. Back next week.

trade4us2, Oct 22, 11:42pm
check all the earths!

kazbanz, Oct 23, 9:58am
If a mouse had chewed away at the wiring insulation then all bets are off. :-) you are likely to have all sorts of weird symptoms.

franc123, Oct 23, 10:28am
They saw rodent damage to the injector harness yet went ahead and replaced the injectors anyway? Words fail me. If theres obvious damage to wiring that needs to be rectified first.

ferrit47, Oct 23, 11:02am
Hey Kiwi-Anna You certainly have had a bad run with that car.
Hope you get it sorted out soon.

kazbanz, Oct 23, 11:57am
My thinking exactly.Without sorting out the damaged wires you are likely to get all sorts of nonsense happening.

franc123, Oct 24, 11:33am
This kind of stuff really concerns me. Youd think such an issue would have been picked up at the plug change. It's obvious a visual check of the components on the top of the engine was not carried out.

sw20, Oct 24, 12:43pm
Swapatrons clipping the ticket every time you drop your car in.

kazbanz, Oct 24, 3:16pm
I agree. I guess unless the chewed parts are inside the cabin-In thinking under dash or ecu feeds

carclan, Oct 25, 4:57pm
Im not being funny here but has it been to Suzuki?

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