Valve Clearances

Page 1 / 2
ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 7:35am
Hi there guys, another question, I need to adjust the valves on my 1977 Triumph 2500tc, but, weirdly. My haynes manual does not state the valve clearances, Now i have found a source online that states that the valve clearance should be 0.25mm when cold on all the valves, on both exhaust and intake, but I need to double check that this is right, and really, iv gotten more answers out a people here than anywere else about this car! Oh and Now the car the car has a WOF :) So the brakes and the seatbelts are definatly fixed :)

40wav, Mar 6, 7:48am
A Haynes manual! Check the bit about tyre pressures, or how to change a headlight bulb - it could be in there somewhere.

mugenb20b, Mar 6, 7:49am
Yes, but strangely enough, Mitsubishi's 4D56 for example is 0.25mm for inlet and exhaust.

jmma, Mar 6, 7:52am
http://t2000.kvaleberg.org/t_tech.html#engine
You are right, here are the specs

directorylist, Mar 6, 7:54am
0.01" both valves

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 8:07am
Cool thanks, Last thing i need is to mess it up, I somehow doubt that the rings are gone as the plugs arnt fouling up any differently to any other cylinder, the only indication that the plugs are showing that its definitely running rich, easy to fix though, the only reason why im doing all of this is I serviced the car a few weeks ago and then it ran like a dream, but now after taking it for a short drive to the VTNZ and back its missing and down on power, but, she still starts with a flick of the switch every time, and the IGN system looks to be in pristine condition otherwise. and there i go rambling on again

afer_daily, Mar 6, 8:07am
if your car is reasonably origanablythere should be a sticker under the bonnet about 4 inches by 4 inches with all those details on it . failing that just stop the nexttriumph you see and look under its bonnetor ask the owner .

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 8:13am
yeah ill do that, the only sticker that i found on my car is under the boot lid that says "shell 1884 anti corrosion paint" which is a bit of a laugh, oh and were can i buy more of that red hardening compound that normally comes with that fiber bog thats reinforced with metal! I always run outa that stuff before the tin is empty!

keith18, Mar 6, 8:15am
runging rich is probably the carb ballancr ,when you set the mixture you check each carb by lifting the little spring loaded pin under the carb ,bellow the piston .

carmedic, Mar 6, 8:55am
Autodata says 0,25mm cold for both inlet and exhaust.

socram, Mar 6, 8:58am
Me too! Great stuff though.

purple666, Mar 6, 8:59am
Could be worth checking the rubber diaphrams in the carbs, modern petrol gets in the cracks and buggers them

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 9:05am
, I dont remember any being in the SU-HF Carbs, and its going to be one of the last things i muck around with, Experience tells me although im good at fixing things, I SUCK at tuning and repairing carbs :P

ml6989, Mar 6, 9:20am
My early days in the motor trade were spent under the bonnetsof Triumphs, as well as other vehicles of British origin. I still get counselling from time to time to help deal with the truma I suffered as a result of that part of my life! That aside, I seem to remember that Triumphs were bad for wear on the rocker faces. The result of this was excessive valve clearences. If you find after you have set the clearences that it sounds like a clacking sewing machine, it may be worth getting the rockers refaced.

jmma, Mar 6, 9:24am
SU,s dont have a rubber diaphram, strombergs however do have them (o:

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 9:25am
if thats soo common, whould it be wise to take the head off completely get Roller rockers for it and also get the head skimmed slightly! I hear that it gives a REALLY nice performance increase by doing so,mind you, if i do that i may aswell do the valves and valve seats and stem seals while im at it, and the piston rings too :S

purple666, Mar 6, 9:27am
I had one that started playing up when they changed the petrol, a BMC mechanic mate of mine told me what to look for and sure enough there were some tiny cracks/fissures in the diaphrams, easy to fix, just take the tops of the carbs off in place.

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 9:30am
Yeah I have Su's though, but I have been run ning 91 and i have just found out on Auto Data i should be using 95 RON Minimum, so I guess that could be causing some problems, though its not pinking.

purple666, Mar 6, 9:33am
Mine were SU's from memory, pull the little damper out and undo the screws holding the cover in place and there they are

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 9:35am
Yeah you had strombergs i think, when i pull the 3 screws off the pot, after i pull the plunger out, all that comes up is a piston with a needle and a big spring, only the jet is under the piston too

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 9:38am
http://www.bmcno.org/tech%20tips/zenith%20stromberg%20tech%20tips.htm - Stromberg , http://omfb.vpsat.be/userpix/25_suHIF44_1.jpg - SU carb, very similar in appearance, quite a bit different in delivery and tuning

jmma, Mar 6, 9:44am
To me the compression are acceptable, you said you did a service and it was running good, after a short run it started missing, not sure what you call a service, but if you did anything with the points, I would readjust them and make sure you lube the little rubbing block. These are simple motors, so keep the thinking simple. Also with the age and milage the bushes in the dist shaft may be a bit worn, I would open the points up a couple of thou more than spec to overcome this. Missing on a simple motor like this is usually electrc, goodluck

purple666, Mar 6, 9:44am
Hmmm you could be right, been few years since I owned a Triumph, or any old British car for that mater

tractor9, Mar 6, 9:49am
You won't have to renove head to fix or put on new rockers. I have some spare ones I bought off TM if you are interested. Also, the red stuff that mixes with bg, I seen sold separately either at Repco or Mitre 10 - can't remember which. Join the Auckland Triumph club, a few experts with your type of car there including a couple of guys who race them.

ginga4lyfe, Mar 6, 9:50am
A service with out adjusting too much ( because i didnt have any details on valve clearances and such at the time ) was just oil+oil filter + new plugs points, Condenser and air filter, the first thing i did was pull the plugs and make sure they were gapped properly, then check the vacuum advance and re-gap the points, though the oil that i put into the car after flushing the old oil is back to pitch black again, so ill be dropping it again and putting new stuff in again, with another new filter, and yeah Iv worked on a fair bit of old cars, but its just been a while since ive worked on one ( since my austin 1100 about 3 years ago )