Sounds question - Sub/Amp/Wire Kit

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bourgeais, Apr 13, 11:59pm
Hello everyone,

So i found an old Sony Xplode 1000W Sub in the shed and it still goes.

All i know it you need an Wire Kit with a fuse and a amp to make the system work.

The thing is i'm unsure which wire kit to buy, 4 gauge! 8 gauge! channel!
And the amp what size! how many amps!

Ah i have no clue when it comes to sounds so looking for some advise :o

Thank you :D

srrolla76, Apr 14, 12:48am
i usually go with 6 or 8 gauge with most basic sub and amp installs unless customers request thicker gauge, all the wires you need is called a "amp kit" so you have an amp already thats a start, do u have a sub aswell!

and you dont need to go into amps or channels etc as you already have a amp.

bourgeais, Apr 14, 12:56am
Hey!

No i don't have a amp, i have the sub in a box which is Sony Xplode 1000W

So you think a wire kit with 8 gauge is what i'm after!

Any idea for a amp!

Thanks :D

srrolla76, Apr 14, 1:02am
sorry i missred your comment haha just realised it said sub. not amp sorry. yea 8 gauge would be fine and as for a amp try to get somthing around 400 to 600watts, you dont want to much more than that youll just blow your sub. and as for channels you can get single channel or "monoblock" amps but you tend to pay alot for them so a two channel amp is ok and then you can just bridge the channels, im running a 1000w sub off a 400w amp and it goes louder than i wud ever need.

sw20, Apr 14, 1:05am
Blow up a sub with too much power! Please.

Subs blow up because people crank them with not enough power.

sw20, Apr 14, 1:10am
So clipping is a myth!

srrolla76, Apr 14, 1:10am
ok and ive had a audio installation company for 10 years because i dont know what im talking about! haha subs blow from too much power being run thru them causing the voice coil to melt how wud u melt it with too little power!. google it and come back when you know what your talking about. for now, stick to your produce.

sw20, Apr 14, 1:11am
Heh nice delete.

srrolla76, Apr 14, 1:14am
no its not a myth but when things are installed properly you dont get distortion or clipping as you want to call it. ive never had a problem with it in 10 years mate so why dont you find a new conversation to go dig on

srrolla76, Apr 14, 1:16am
or have u been hit by a peice of rubble in the last quake! piss off stick to who you know not what you know sunshine

bourgeais, Apr 14, 1:38am
sweet as cheers mate, one last question, does brand such as fusion/sony/sound stream means better quality!
I'm thinking just buying unbranded products from here on trademe because the sounds is going in my station wagon so i'm not so fussed

n1smo_gtir, Apr 14, 2:23am
if you don't wanna spend too much and not after absolute perfection i'd go for pioneer tbh. for the money you spend pioneer seems to get you good bang for bucks. i find sony and fusions gear not as good quality. both too marketting focussed than quality. i got a sony set up ONLY cos it was old stuff i had left from decade ago, now i'd go for pioneer if i was to start fresh and going for low to med range.

sr2, Apr 14, 4:04am
While not wishing to get involved in a boy racers keyboard slinging match I can vouch for the fact that insufficient amp headroom kills speakers! (35 plus years owning / operating large PA rigs in the music industry) .

mm12345, Apr 14, 4:10am
By way of a problem called "DC Burn" .Simple explanation is that a clipped waveform from a solid state amp is likely to have an asymmetrical voltage bias which holds the voice coil "off centre" and restrained by the suspension spider and cone surround.This means impedance drop as the coil can't move, and is exacerbated by the coil's inability to keep up with the square wave clipped signal. Combine this with the fact that the voice coil relies on cooling from air movement (which has been restricted by the DC bias holding the coil off centre) and radiative heat transfer to the magnet assembly "gap" that the coil is no longer centred in, and voice coils burn out.
I suggest that you google it.You're handing out advice here which might superficially appear to be "expert" - but isn't.

sr2, Apr 14, 4:28am
+1. A simple way for srrolla76 to introduce himself to the exciting world of sound reinforcement would be for him / her to select their favourite 4 ohm sub woofer and wire it directly across a 12 volt car battery. If V still equals IR (and I??

trdbzr, Apr 14, 4:51am
8 guage wiring will be fine. Hyper has the Fusion 8 guage wiring kit on sale for $29, its on their daily deals thing. As for an amp, any basic mono or 2 channel amp will be fine. I think those subs are 300 watt RMS max if I remember correctly. And both overpowering and underpowering a sub can kill it.

Hyper also has a huge sale on car audio right now, they have a Sony 2 channel amp going for $65.

pollymay, Apr 14, 5:06am
I got a JVC 800W monoblock class D amp pretty cheap recently. It's alright, the headunit I has a phase control and all sorts of doo-dads to play around with to keep input pretty clean. I just run it on a2 ohm setup.

How many ohms is your sub! I'd assume it's pretty standard and 4ohm or what have you. Keep in mind when buying an amp that peak power means squat, you want good RMS values rated for the ohms of resistance you want to run. Many of the "1400 watts!1111!" amps you see cheap on trademe are something stupid like 100W RMS. They also tend to overheat and have poor quality capacitors/inductors. They overheat and fail, vibrations kill them etc so stay away from really cheap stuff.

Fusion does do some ok stuff but only at the high end. Most of the really good stuff you will pay big $$$ for and will be by some weird company that set out to make a name. Pioneer make ok stuff. I'd throw a better high powered amp at it rather than a cheaper low power amp that ends up frying the coils. Also think about your mounting and look to see if the box is sealed properly. You want the amp somewhere it has a little airflow and doesn't vibrate to death from the subwoofer (people screw them to the box which is bad)

This is my setup in the commonwhore. The plugs slide straight onto a cheap multiboard, amps in parallel are wired to this. I pull it out, it unplugs, put it in, plugs in. Takes 3 seconds and cost about $10 to make. Means I can get my bootspace back whenever I want and no wirenuts, sub box rolling around loose etc.

http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff323/328FTW/Holden%20SS/SANY2926.jpg http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff323/328FTW/Holden%20SS/SANY2925.jpg

The multiboard is attached to my bootfloor with an MDF surround to keep the floor flat around the sub area. I just line up the pins and drop the sub into place. Copyright of Ghettotech designs :P

sw20, Apr 14, 5:10am
I had a buddy in the PGC building that had some rubble fall on him. It was the rest of the building.

srrolla76, Apr 14, 5:26pm
good for you, dont bother me at all

trdbzr, Apr 14, 5:34pm
Are you related to Spike by any chance!

mm12345, Apr 14, 6:00pm
Can you please post the URL to the site from where you claim I "cut and pasted" my post.I don't think you'll find it - loser.

So you've had 10 years experience in a business installing car audio systems!
Bwaahahaaaa.With the complete lack of knowledge of even the basics, you don't have customers - only "victims".

mantagsi, Apr 14, 6:26pm
Fwiw I agree with mm12345 & sw20. Ive had a few years in the stereo repair game (not as much as these two admittedly) but my findings agree with what they advise.

bourgeais, Apr 15, 2:22am
Hello everyone,

Just want to say a huge thank you for everyone who has posted on this topic, i have learnt alot from everyone.

From what i have gathered from this topic i have found 2 products from Hyper which i think is good but want to double check for your opinion.

(AMP)

SONY AMP XMGTX6020 Description
2/1 Channel GTX Series Amplifier.
Maximum Output Power: 800W
Rated Output Power: 130W x 2 (at 4 ohms)
Channel Configuration: 2ch / 1ch
High/Low Pass Filter: 80Hz (Variable), 12dB/oct / 80Hz (Variable), 18dB/oct
Frequency Response: 5-50kHz
MOSFET Power Supply
General
Channel Configuration2/1
Power SupplyMOSFET Power Supply
Maximum Output Power400W × 2 (at 2 ohms), 280W × 2 (at 4 ohms)
Rated Output Power170W × 2 / 1.0% (at 2 ohms), 130W × 2 / 1.0% (at 4 ohms)
High Pass Filter / Slope80Hz (Variable), 12dB/oct (Selectable)
Low Pass Filter / Slope80Hz (Variable), 18dB/oct (Selectable)
Frequency Response5-50kHz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio100dB
Total Harmonic Distortion (1kHz)0.05%
Input: Number of Channels2
Line OutYes (Through)
Bass Boost40Hz, 0-10dB
Tolerance+0/-3dB
Dimensions (W x H x D)384 × 55 × 252mm
Weight (kg)Approx. 3.0kg

(WIRE KIT)

FUSION WIRING KIT 8GA 500W AC-AK08E Description
500 Watts
AC-AK08E
NEW sealed in package
The kit includes:
1 x 5m 8 gauge power cable
1 x 1m 8 gauge ground cable
1 x 5m 18 gauge remote cable
2 x 5m 18 gauge speaker cable
1 x 5m standard RCA interconnect
1 x AUE fuse holder with 1 x 60 Amp AUE fuse
1 x 1.8m of protective sleeving
8 x cable ties
2 x 8 gauge nickel plated ring terminals
2 x 8 gauge nickel plated fork terminals
1 x 18 gauge nickel plated fork terminal
2 x 4.8mm nickel plated female speaker terminals
2 x 2.5mm nickel plated female speaker terminals
2 x cable rubber grommets

Is this enough power to run my 1000W Sony Xplode Sub!

Looking forward to some comments,
Again thank you all for helping me

Regards,
Johno

trdbzr, Apr 15, 3:42am
Yeah you'll be sweet with that, those subs sell for $39 brand new, so no point in investing lots of $$$ in running it.

pollymay, Apr 15, 4:24am
Not a fan of sony but it's probably "ok". Most people are so tone deaf it doesn't matter that much anyway and depending on where you have the sub it might not matter. If it faces away from you then you are probably good to go, it's when they face right at you that things have to by just right or it'll sound weird.

Not a super high RMS but probably passable once you run it bridged. Like above, not much point throwing too much at a $40 sub