Planning on making one. I have done some goggling to see the general concept of them and to pick up on any hints etc. One thing that was not apparent to me that I thought was a good point was to build them high enough (but not too high) that allows the wheels of your engine lift to slide under. Yep yep! I plan on using scrap steel, some simple mechanical gauges and other ssstuff that is lying around the shed like old Valiant radiator/jappa electric fans etc. Who's done one . got one . and if was doing one - would consider what! Ta.
quickstitch,
Jul 14, 9:57pm
i did one, made it with bolt on crossmembers (trans and engine mounts) so it could be used with any motor. Also used castors with brakes to stop the thing wandering all over the floor. Saw a good idea on another one, a radiator with two inlet and two outlet pipes, so could be used with chev or ford engines, had two block offs that just got hose clipped on the ones that weren't in use
mrfxit,
Jul 14, 10:04pm
Rear entry for motor to slide in to Full length catch tray 50mm box section rails High & wide enough so that the base of the engine blocks would be about even or slightly under the main frame rail Splayed outwards legs
Light truck radiator with dual top & bottom hose fittings done with screw caps Short wide muffler off a 3ltr car with assorted reducer pipe adapters Clip (slide & lock) on flywheel guard.(plate steel) Battery mounted in front of the radiator
trader_84,
Jul 14, 10:05pm
Cheers man! Damn! - the casters I have found don't feature brakes, but yeah - understand why you'd need them. Thats a good idea re the radiator . I thought about circumnavigating that with a couple of those long flexible type hoses you can get. Hmmmm. Need to look aye! I guess you could use those tap/pipe block of thingies that Para Rubber sells for the purpose if a 4 holes system was chosen. Bunnings would have something in the plumbers department also probably. Cheers.
trader_84,
Jul 14, 10:06pm
You've obviously been here before mate. Cheers.
mrfxit,
Jul 14, 10:16pm
Weld basic utility clips to the rails for other items like the muffler/ battery cables etc. DON'T drill holes in the rails Big items like the muffler need to be clipped for easy fitting removal Theres a range of flexi exhaust piping around for connecting manifolds & mufflers. Mount the muffler high in the middle at the back & make an twin "S" bend to come down to approx where you would expect to connect, screw caps again for either side (single exhaust or twin exhausts)
the-lada-dude,
Jul 15, 1:57am
i built an engine dyno, if that's of any interest to you !
trader_84,
Jul 15, 2:52am
No thanks . but what did you use for the brake out of interest!
whqqsh,
Jul 15, 4:23am
if you were in Aucks you could have my one. probably needs a bit of work but set up with radiator, ignition, solenoid etc. even shifter for trans. was used for BB ford & from Ardmore airfield. Will advertise soon if anyone interested
the-lada-dude,
Jul 15, 5:32am
hi there trader_84it was a fairly big fluid flywheel of a old auto. pretty sure they were used in old chevys, same one used by RR and others. all the vanes were braised up inside. the F/F had its own external housing which was modified to be able to rotate ( just a bit ) on its own axis. the engine was affixed to a face plate which in turn was attached to a very sturdy steel frame ( almost like a work bench with no top.) the engine drove through a short drive shaft to the F/F you could measure the torque atthe F / F. it was basically a water brake.
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