PT Cruiser cambelt

My daughter owns a PT Cruiser that is in need of a cambelt and has been told it is really expensive!
Is this true! My recent cambelt job cost me only $200 on a ford laser!
Why should her car be any different!

Why should her car be any different!
Because its not a laser.

Heard from someone,it's easier to remove engine to change the cam belt

arnt they just a 4g mitsy motor

Yes, expensive. Access to the cambelt on a Ford Laser is a mechanic's dream. Can't say the same for a PT Cruiser.

Nope, but they're used in late model Volgas

Horrid motor.

Couple of videos on youtube showing this, it should explain why this job will not be done for a few hundred dollars.

BTW, make sure its done properly including a new waterpump, tensioners, seals, etc. You don't want to have to redo this in a hurry.

Here are the instructions in a few easy steps!

REMOVAL

Disconnect negative battery cable.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove right front wheel.
Remove the right splash shield.
Remove accessory drive belts.
Remove crankshaft damper
Remove the lower torque strut
Disconnect exhaust system from manifold.
Disconnect A/C pressure switch at rear of compressor housing.
Lower vehicle and support engine with a jack.
Discharge A/C system and disconnect A/C lines at coupling block
Remove upper torque strut
Remove screw attaching ground strap to strut bracket.
Remove torque strut bracket from strut tower.
Remove upper radiator support crossmember
Remove power steering pump and bracket. Set pump aside. Do not disconnect lines from pump.</B>
With engine properly supported, remove right engine mount through bolt.
Raise engine with jack until engine support bracket bolts are accessible.
Remove support bracket bolts.
Remove support bracket.
Remove upper timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover.
Remove lower timing belt cover fasteners and remove cover
CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft timing marks always rotate engine from crankshaft. Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is removed. Damage to valve components may occur. Always align timing marks before removing timing belt.
Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket (trailing edge of sprocket tooth)
NOTE: The crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is located on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth. Failure to align trailing edge of sprocket tooth to TDC mark on oil pump housing will cause the camshaft timing marks to be misaligned.
Install 6 mm Allen wrench into belt tensioner. Before rotating the tensioner, insert the long end of a 1/8??? or 3 mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the front of the tensioner .
While rotating the tensioner counterclockwise, push in lightly on the 1/8??? or 3 mm Allen wrench, until it slides into the locking hole.
Remove timing belt. CAUTION: If timing belt was damaged due to incorrect tracking (alignment), the belt tensioner assembly must be replaced

INSTALLATION

Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
Set camshafts timing marks so that the exhaust camshaft sprocket is a 1/2 notch below the intake camshaft sprocket
CAUTION: Ensure that the arrows on both camshaft sprockets are facing up.
Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and then around the tensioner
Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to align marks and take up belt slack. NOTE: A new tensioner is held in the wound position by a pull pin.
Remove the pull pin or Allen wrench from the belt tensioner.
Once the timing belt has been installed and tensioner released, rotate the crankshaft two (2) complete revolutions. Verify that the TDC marks on crankshaft and timing marks on the camshafts are aligned as shown in .
Install lower timing belt cover and tighten fasteners to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.
Install upper timing belt cover and tighten fasteners to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.
Install right engine support bracket. Ensure the power steering pump is properly located in mounting location on bracket. Tighten mount bracket bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Lower engine into mounting position and install right engine mount through bolt. Tighten bolt to 118 N·m (87 ft. lbs.).
Install power steering pump and bracket.
Install upper radiator support crossmember
Install torque strut bracket to strut tower.
Connect ground strap to bracket.
Install upper torque strut
Connect A/C lines. Evacuate and recharge A/C system
Raise vehicle.
Connect exhaust system to manifold.
Connect A/C pressure sw

Well thats not too bad then

Even hit the post limit before the job was finished. so that's not even the job finished.

Just the discharge and recharging of the air conditioning may cost you around as much asthe entire cambelt job on the Laser.

You sound good and keen. want to do my next 20V Marea cambelt for me!

Its even easier, no need to disconect the air con on that one.

I think the same job on the laser likely begins around line 23.

I have not done one of these myself so can't tell you if any of those steps can be worked around (sometimes with jobs like this there are sneaky ways around some steps for those in the know). I wouldn't bank on it though.

Cost wise. I am curious to know what the going rate is in NZ to get them done. From a casual scan of the list I would say to do it properly incl waterpump etc $1500 would be a bargain, I wouldn't be surprised if some places charged $2500.

Its hard to gauge, sometimes jobs like this despite having a lot of steps can be done quite quickly of its not too fiddly to get to things. Other times it can take forever and mechanics time would likely be the most expensive component of the job.

hmmm I would but you live so far away from me it wouldn't be practical lol

Oh, don't you worry about that my friend, You could live in Invercargill and I would happily drive it down if it meant I got to keep my hands clean. (and not crushed, bruised, scraped and abraised) the neighbors might even subsidise my trip so as not to hear my "commentary" during the job.

Would even give a slab for your time.

BTW, the timing belt kit for the Marea often comes with a work sign to affix to the vehicle during the job "R16 Contains Abusive Language".

See you later this afternoon. it will just take me a few minutes to pack and be on my way.

they are such fugly cars, they look like a hearse on steroids

You must have a slow one Jazz or ya need a new gps because it surely woundnt have broken down on the way lol

There are a few for sale at in the high 80s/90s kms. No wonder.

Nothihg that a good "cut&tuck" wouldn't fix

(Cut engine bay & tuck in a small v6)

ya forgot the other 2 cylinders maybe a nice small block 400

Cost my daughter $2500, and that was with a very reputable mechanic.

I see that PT with the Lexus V8 and 5 speed isn't here anymore. The guy made a beautiful job of it.

Nah, would have to mid mount that size engine.
A small block 2ltr/ 2.5ltr v6 should fit in ok-ish & be respective of the body size & still a nice town/ open road car.

Was just thinking that with a better engine & maybe a body kit & decent paint job, a Cruiser could make a brilliant mobile computer techs work vehicle with the back outfitted correctly

I've done one, thank God I didnt quote on it beforehand! Apparently the agents find it easier to remove the engine to do. There is a massive alloy bracket that the engine mount bolts to that is an absolute ass to get out and back in. 2500 would be about right methinks. I charged the guy $1800 to do it, but that was quite a few years ago, prices have risen since then.

Sounds like as much fun as either of doing. Nissan Atessa AWD starter motor & or front cover oil leak.