This car, (not mine) was driving down the road, and started running rough, then eventually only ran on 2 clylinders. The coil was burnt underneath and so we replaced it, sadly the same thing has happened to the second coil. I am wondering what can cause the coil to burn out like that. Sorry I don't have more detail on the year of the car. I will get that and post it here. But it is a mid 90's stationwagon, but of course that does not help!.
dent,
Oct 1, 1:38pm
Have you checked your spark plugs. A wide gap ion the plugs will cause the coil to have to produce a bigger spark and could overload the coil.
rawill,
Oct 1, 1:48pm
New plugs, new leads, new exciter, (well a used exciter) ECU haas been checked by the guys in Nelson, and we have tried another ECU.
But something seems to be frying the coil, it isa puzzle!
funkydunky,
Oct 1, 7:48pm
I would've said you have a short circuit happening somewhere, but i see you have replaced the leads and plugs
sr2,
Oct 1, 11:21pm
Bit of a long shot but have you checked the HT earthing on the coil!
panicky,
Oct 1, 11:40pm
Is it an excel coil as I have had 3 failures with them, doing exactly what you are saying.
icemans1,
Oct 2, 1:42am
they always sound like that
rawill,
Oct 2, 2:39am
Yes Icemans1-!~! Thanks for your replies. We will check the earthing on the coil, and take note of the fact that panicky has had 3 failures. The car is 1996.
Garage owner is off to Bathurst so left me to figure things out!
And yes, we are looking for a short circuit that is overheating the coils and causing them to fail~!
rawill,
Oct 3, 12:49pm
Bump, in the hope someone else sees this and has an idea. Thanks again to those who replied
loonee-dial-111,
Oct 3, 11:56pm
Assuming its not a crap design I'm guessing the coils are not 100% load rated and/or something is not driving them right. Something in the ECU (I see you've tried that theory) or the cabling to/from the ECU.
Personally I would give up for now and put a resistor in series with the coil input to reduce load on the coil to stop it overheating to save replacing it all the time.I would guess 2-4 ohms 20-10 watt would do it. Or get an aftermarket coil that can handle 12 volts continuous. A resistor is not a root cause fix but it will help rule out an issue on the 12V side if you blow up another coil. But given you've replaced all the HT parts I can't imagine that's the case.
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.