Mechanics Please I have a Q about my FTO

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sharon.nz, Apr 11, 9:27pm
Is there a computer board or relay or some kind of electrical gadget that can only be accessed from up in behind the dash board and that you can get to, to look at with one of those flexi stem lights with a mirror on the end, from in behind the glove compartment?
My FTO is a manual 1996

sharon.nz, Apr 11, 9:28pm
Also its always started first turn of the key and it wont start today, the engine turns over but no spark. Is there anyone familiar with these cars who lives locally that could fix it> I live on SH1 a few km north of Hunterville. Id pay. Just I cant take it from here obviously to get it looked at.

mechnificent, Apr 11, 10:19pm
Have you checked all the fuses. inside the car and under the bonnet ?

I don't know where the computer would be but it would generaly not be the first thing to check.
When you turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump humming in the back of the car for a couple of seconds ?

intrade, Apr 12, 4:58am
there will be a ecu for the engine You need to post what exact engine you have or if you can take pictures of the engine and ignition components. I usually have to figure out by looking at things what system design a engine seems to have fitted.
You could check if you have serial codes in the engine by putting it in diagnostic mode , usually older cars use a morse code flashing A light on your odometer instrument when its in diagnostic mode. if no codes are stored then that is also a clue. codes are just clues to what might be causing the problem for any fault .
check if you have this diagnostic plug
http://ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart07.html

dasfi, Apr 12, 5:47am
Had same problem on 2 of my v6 Mitsys, both times it was the cam angle sensor in the dizzy from memory

dasfi, Apr 12, 5:48am
6A11 or 6a12 engine from memory?

sharon.nz, Apr 12, 9:36am
I looked at the fuse box and I cant tell if they are all there or not so I'll take a pic tomorrow and put it up on a listing and point you guys to it. Thank you so much for answering.

franc123, Apr 12, 9:45am
Does it sound normal when cranking over? Is there any possibility the cam belt may have stripped or snapped?

intrade, Apr 12, 9:55am
upload immages here http://www.iforce.co.nz/
and give link

sharon.nz, Apr 12, 9:56am
There is a possibility whilst I was at my daughters for easter weekend that my ex came here and sabotaged it in some way. The drivers seat was way back like he'd been sitting in it. Paranoid worst case scenario thought process but when I opened the door and saw the seat right back I just knew it wasnt going to start. Im gutted. but hoping its just something simple that just happens when a car is sitting doing nothing (yeah right) LOL (insert raised eyebrow look) We did the cam belt 50,000 km ago. It was fine last week when I drove it, but I took the tow wagon to Palmy for the weekend. It doesnt have water in the oil, there is water in it, It turns over but I cant tell if its normal sounding because the thing has started first flick of the key every time previously. Maybe water has got into something because of all the rain for the last 4 days. Im pretty good with the older engines that have visible leads to spark plugs but this thing is like an alien space ship to me and I dont know wtf Im looking at LOL

franc123, Apr 12, 10:11am
I think realistically its best for you to get it checked by one of the garages there and tell them your findings and if someone has been on your property unauthorised and tampered with it then get the police involved.

mugenb20b, Apr 12, 7:49pm
Yes, but there is one in Hunterville. I'd suggest to OP to call the AA and go from there, otherwise all we can do is guess.

thejazzpianoma, Apr 12, 7:50pm
Hi sharon.nz

If you feel up to it, I can run you through some basic things to check which will hopefully put some light on what the problem is. Realistically, unless it's sabotage (removed fuse etc) you are probably still going to need to replace a part (fuel pump, cam sensor etc). You may or may not be able to do that even with instructions provided, so you want to decide whether it's easier just to have a mechanic visit or the car towed.

However I am happy to have a go, at least getting you that far if you are keen, can follow some instructions carefully and have some basic tools. I am busy on my own jobs today but can pop in periodically and see where you are up to if you have a few minutes here and there today to try some things. There is no pressure to stay by the PC and wait for the next step, just carry on as normal and check in periodically, I don't mind how long it takes.

So. if you are keen. Here is the first thing I would like you to check.

1. When you turn it over, does the rev counter move at all? Obviously the needle will only go up a little amount but if it moves at all tells us if the computer is likely to be getting an electronic timing signal from the engine.

Then. can you tell me please what if any of the following you have.

1. Another person capable of turning the key to the on position on request (not sure how old your daughter is). They don't have to necessarily crank the car, just turn it to on so the dash lights light up.

2. A multimeter?

3. Basic spanners and screwdrivers?

4. A test light (a 12v bulb with some wires on it)

5. One of those little lpg blow torches?

6. A spray can of something flammable like carburettor cleaner, maf cleaner, electrical contact cleaner?

7. A battery charger?

Also, how soon do you need it running and how far are you from somewhere that would sell some very basic tools and automotive stuff. Will you be going to such a place this week?

Do you have a neighbour or friend handy that may have some of the above if you don't have them?

Best of luck with it, no pressure to carry on if it all sounds too much, but if you are keen to try some things I am happy to keep advising as you need.

thejazzpianoma, Apr 12, 8:20pm
I was thinking about this too, if it is going to need an AA visit or to be towed I think there might be a premium plan where they will transport the vehicle to a garage of your choice. This may possibly still apply to a non running vehicle at your home and may well be cheaper than paying for a tow truck directly.

Failing that OP, if you feel confident to give things a go I am happy to guide you as systematically as I can with what resources you have at your disposal. All on an "absolutely no responsibility" basis though, you take any advice at your own risk and if you are not confident please don't do it.

franc123, Apr 12, 9:43pm
No I didn't, been through there many times and there ARE garages there.

bigfatmat1, Apr 12, 9:47pm
Someone else may of shifted. Vehicle cause was in way now it's flooded. Failing that. Those cars have so many common probs. Ecu, fuel pump relays, distributors, just to name a few

franc123, Apr 12, 9:55pm
Exactly, that's why there is bugger all point in going into much detail, distributor and ECU failure in particular was legendary.

evo_spares, Apr 13, 1:18am
Distributors? on a FTO!

bigfatmat1, Apr 13, 1:35am
distributor 4g93 been a while since I worked on one

dasfi, Apr 13, 3:58am
1800cc v6 has one, 2.0l v6 has coil packs

intrade, Apr 13, 6:55am
one thing not to forget is 90s mitsubishi ecu alwasy crapped them selfs with leaking capacitors , So we can not rule this out as cause for a nostart.

sharon.nz, Apr 13, 9:26am
Wow thank you so much for all that input. YES I have a few basic tools and Im up for it but seeing you mentioned rev counter you reminded me that a couple of drives ago the rev counter was being manic. Can we start from there? The seat being back and the rear view mirror facing down all pointed to someone wanting to let me know they had been in it and I still dont want to think like that about it but the rev counter was behaving VERY oddly not last time I drove it because it seemed to have settled down. I did have it off the road for 12 months until end of Jan when we put another alternator in it prior to parking it up last year/Jan it had no issues (except it wants to drive at 120kph and I have to hold it back) :)

sharon.nz, Apr 13, 9:55am
and yes there is a garage in Hunterville but I wont go there again after they reckoned my trailer had a dodgy wheel bearing and I didnt believe them so drove straight to Wanganui to VTNZ and it passed AND didnt need a wheel bearing for 10 years after that ( and I use it all the time) and then there was the trailer lights were not working properly they reckoned so I paid them to put new ones on it then the following wof check they failed the trailer lights again and Im like WHAT? The new lights you guys put on it last WOF? chick doesnt go back to a garage that has a workshop out the back to get her WOFS anymore. She drives to Wanganui and gets them and saves thousands I bet. so yeah. there is no garage here for me.

thejazzpianoma, Apr 13, 7:07pm
One more thing. if you don't mind can you please post the number plate number of the car in question. That way I can look it up and check exactly what engine etc it has. If you are not comfortable doing that, just say and we can go from engine numbers etc.

Also, and forgive this sounding patronising. Can you please confirm how much fuel the gauge is showing and that it has been fairly accurate in the past and lines up with about where you think it should be. I would also like to know approximately when it last had fresh fuel put in it (since it has been sitting).

intrade, Apr 13, 8:16pm
sharon.nz
Let see this is going to be hard to make sure you are in the right state of mind , as some never get it , We can not know what you know in your head , its why it is important to tell anything even embarasing stuff because it speeds up correct diagnosys.
This is how it works for any professinal fault finding and is only a analogy to try and see if you got the point.
You have a blowen head gasket you fit a new headgasket and it blows out 2 weeks later , Do you now just call the gasket crap and fit another gasket?
thats how parts swaper swaptrons operate
and you cant be a swaptron especially not on cars with electronics where there is multiple actions to a reaction
The correct way is to know why the headgasket has blowen out, and then repairing what caused the problem along with the problem.
thats how you repair correctly
This applys even more so on any electro mechanical problems
Systematic checking of what works till you found what does not work and then finding what caused it to not work . this is about the most basic way i can explain how to professionally do things.
you can be a diy professional,
if you dont understand this then we are just wasting our time, i dont want to be rude or arrogant but its the truth and what every professional diagnostic trainer for advanced automotive diagnostics has said .
guessing whats wrong works almost as good as try and winning the lotto.