My rear brakes have had this problem on and off for about two weeks but 3 days ago it returned and appears to want to stay. I can see the stone (2 or 3mm in width)when I shine a torch between the inner pad and the disc but it won't move. The outer side of the disc has minor surface rust, guessing due to lack of friction and wet weather even tho the stone is on the other side I am assuming that both pistons will not fully engage. On the opposite wheel it is shiny. Have tried the reverse/brake thing but this stone is happy in it's new home. I'm not happy. Is there any way to get it dislodged apart from removing the cailpers. Can calipers be loosened off at all or do I have to do the hard yards?l. I am a female who has actually replaced disc pads a few times before but I'm hoping there is an easier way as I do not find this job terribly easy, but am learning. If anyone has ideas or could help talk me through it (apart from totally removing calipers, cos I can do that), I would be so very grateful. TIA.
hamhonda,
Jun 3, 2:59am
It may not be the stone making the noise, unfortunatly the Odyssey is very prone for the rear calipers actually seizing up.
maclad,
Jun 3, 3:07am
Oh thank you so much, (not really) it seems it is also prone to needing regular engine mount replacements. So how do i work out if calipers are seized and why would this make a noise.
lugee,
Jun 3, 4:29am
The fact that your outer rotor surface is rusty indicates the pad isn't making contact = seized caliper. Caliper needs to come apart, can sort the stone out then too. You'll be losing brake performance as is.
maclad,
Jun 3, 4:33am
Can this caliper be unseized. I knew the rust was not a good sign.
tamarillo,
Jun 3, 4:47am
If you pull caliper off without undoing hoses etc it's actually a quick job. Then you can clear the stone and see if pistons are seized or not. The tiniest, very very careful press on pedal by another adult whilst your holding caliber, will tell you if it's moving. Or you should be able to push it a tiny bit in. If it's not obviously moving put it on loosely and pump brake hard looking again. I have once effected a temporary repair of lightly seized caliper by pushing it back in A tiny bit to get it moving. It takes a fair bit of energy to do it and don't push far or brake fluid will pour out of top of its bottle under hood. But it might be that since the inside is blocked from moving by the stone, the outside is unable to work either. Unsure of that. You can replace yourself if you can bleed it out? But it's not a big job so workshop won't charge a fortune. BUT in this rain a bit of rust showing is no problem, mine has it after just one night left out. I'm NOT a mechanic so expect to get told off for this, but it worked for me!
hamhonda,
Jun 3, 4:58am
As above poster once you have the caliper off, which is just held on by 2 bolts (leave the hose on it), you can try lite pressure on the pedal to see if the piston moves. If it doesn't you can try to force the piston in to free it up by using a "g" clamp or similar BUT if it has seized it is usually because of a fault with the caliper, probably a seal, so this won't really fix the problem. From the amount that I have sold to garages I would be guessing that once they are seized they don't usually free up that well.
maclad,
Jun 3, 5:00am
Thanks for that tamarillo, helpful. I know a bit about this but do not understand how a caliper which is seized in open position,as this must be the case, due to rust accumulation, can cause all this noise as there is no contact with the rotor. So picking it is still the stone unless the pistons work dependent on each other. Nevermind will pull it to bits tomorrow and hope it is sorted by the time I need to use the car.
gmphil,
Jun 3, 5:05am
remove the two bolts holding caliper and remove dislodge stone replace caliper in do up bolts from there get someone else to push the brake pedal to ascertain whether its ur piston side or or the otherside worked by the slide operation to determine where go from there
jmma,
Jun 3, 5:14am
I wouldn't recommend pushing the brake pedal with caliper off, I can see tears happening. Remove stone, have a look at pads, see if slides move. Refit and a quick drive to see if rust has gone. (o:
hamhonda,
Jun 3, 5:18am
There is just one piston in the rear caliper, on the "inside" side of the vehicle. When it pushes out it will push just the pad on that side against the brake disk, creating a "sandwich" affect against the pad on the outside. So seeing surface rust on the outside face of the disc will be because the pads aren't "sandwiching" together, the noise would be from the pad on the inside if the caliper has seized with the piston part way out. (hope this makes sense) BUT in saying all that there is the chance that it could just be the stone.
mainlander05,
Jun 3, 5:28am
Oh dear.if you have replaced pads before then you will know you can undo one bolt and loosen other one and then swivel the disc up or down to expose stone without removing caliper.then back into place and retighten.if disc is seized,big time job but not to hard.
maclad,
Jun 3, 5:29am
This is all helpful and I thank you all for the input. Perhaps I neglected to say the noise only occurs when I brake . Will try and remove stone tomorrow and then take it from there. Thanks everyone. The noise is considerably more noticeable as the vehicle slows and is really obvious just before a complete stop. Hope I have not been misleading you helpful people.
maclad,
Jun 3, 5:31am
Thanks so much I am very much learning here and did not know that but it makes huge sense. My biggest issue is getting piston pushed back, BUT I WILL SUCCEED. Thanks
maclad,
Jun 3, 5:35am
Guessing a little gentle persuasion, with mallet, and CRC may help. LOL. Just kidding.
ridiculousness,
Jun 3, 5:37am
If you are too scared to remove the caliper then perhaps you should leave it for a garage to do. Removing a stone from a caliper is one of the easiest jobs to do.
maclad,
Jun 3, 5:44am
No way that is the easy part, besides I love a challenge, am very broke and have done it before, can do it again. Just wondered if there was an easier way than a complete dismantle and have lots of lovely replies and options to try now. But tomorrow I may be here again with a fresh lot of issues to discuss so please standby all.
skin1235,
Jun 3, 6:10am
but you don't need to dismantle it, remove the wheel undo both retaining bolts, leave one in there loose and remove the other ( remove the one closest the stone ) the calipher should then swing out enough to allow you to pick the stone out
swing it back and bolt it up, put the wheel on and try the brakes - be prepared, for the first couple of pumps the brakes may not work very well
maclad,
Jun 3, 6:20am
Good advice thanks
skin1235,
Jun 3, 6:26am
one question I have to ask, you may not know the answer yourself, I certainly don't, but otheres here may
is the Oddy one of those that use the disk pad for handbrake - and the pad has to be wound back in - can it also be wound out once the stone is removed
and why isn't the slides working at least enough to take the rust off the outside of the disk, the stone is on the inside - the slides should still bring the outside shoe into contact
kazbanz,
Aug 2, 1:23am
STOP-What year is the oddity? Its very common for rear brakes on Hondas to have a "twist out" piston try pushing one of those pistons back in and you will destroy the caliper. Im sorry if I seem over dramatic but if i were you I would NOT be mucking around with the brakes based on what Im reading posted by you. I might suggest undoing ONE bolt and loosening another to spin the caliper out of the way to remove the stone--beyond that leave it to someone who knows what they are doing. Again I apologise but the cost of a mistake with brakes can be fatal.
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