Engine oil put in brake master cyl

Hey Intrade is a bit weird but IMOP he's one of the cool guys on this MB.

Despite the fact that the Queens English is anything but his 1st language and anything modern (i.e. post 1970) is beyond his comprehension - when it comes to mechanically injected Diesels "he's da man"!

2nd hand water if ya caught short . Never had to try it myself . I like those automatic brakes that come with v twins when you close the throttle . Fitted a y joint on a Mille pneumatic clutch set up so i could use the unused 2nd vacuum port on the throttle body on Saturday . Conclusion , it works .

Last week I had to bleed the brakes system of a mates car that somebody put ATF fluid into. Sabotaged.
It didn't mix well & floated on the brake fluid.
The brakes were bad anyway too. I couldn't bleed the FR wheel, it only came out slowly & if I closed the nipple, waited a minute, opened it up again,id get some more fluid, then none again.
I suspect the hose had deteriorated inside & was blocking itself. But still slowly leaking last the blockage.
I took the resiviour off, cleaned & dried it after sucking out all fluid(s), took the rubber bungs out too.
Afterwards it worked OK. But without replacing that hose it's not 100%.

But.
The original problem with it was that after some use, the brakes got hot & locked on, so it wouldn't go anywhere.
After 36 hours of sitting, it came OK again.

As soon as this was described I knew what it was.
Water in the brake fluid.
It happened to me in my MK4 Cortina on the downhill, west side, of the Arthur's pass, on the downhill, the brakes got hot, the pedal went hard & it started pulling to one side ( the right I think ).
Nearly didn't make it. Had to get the passenger to help pull the steering wheel so I could turn left as as son as I hit the brakes, it pulled to the right.
I stopped at the bottom of the ( old ,) downhill zigzag & let them cool down & then they came alright & off I went.

Decades later this same thing happened in a mates car on the Milford rd.
"Water in the brake fluid. It heats up, turns to steam, expands & pushed the pads, which alpplys the brakes, so it pulls to one side, the brakes best up even more, & it gets worse".
So we undid that brake nipple & a stresm of grey steam shot out for about 30 seconds. Sat around to let the brakes cool down. Made a phone appt to get the brake fluid changed.
Drove on.

There's no excuse to not change the brake fluid, it's like $15 for 500mls.
Do it when the pads need changed. Like undo the nipple, attach hose & push the pistons back, easy. Then bleed it afterwards.

Oh, years later I went to bleed the Cortina & I kept getting rust in the fluid & sinking brake pedal. It turned out that the master cylinder bore was rusted past the normal piston travel, when I pushed the pedal hard, it went past the rust, scraped it up into the fluid & ruined the seals. Spent hours doing this.

Got a reconditioned one for $125, bled the system in ten minutes afterwards.
Brakes worked better than ever.

A 'Must do job' on every car i own now is to completely bleed the brakes ASAP.
The fluids always dark brown, & last time had green clots in it. ( Copper sulphate from the sealing washers )

260 lux is bright. 3600 lux is very very bright.
My ( don't buy one ! ) Eveready 2 cell torch is quoted @ 400 lux ( originally 700 lux but they changed it, more accurate reading I think )
That torch is the silver, very heavy 2 X AA battery one, in a pkt at the Supermarket stand for $29.
It suffers the common LED problem of turning off if you bump it & the battery's loose contact for a miillisecond. Otherwise it's a great torch, but if it won't go when you need it, it's useless. Also it just sucks the power out of the battery's, it's always going flat.
I'm putting the head of it into a 2 X D Cell Maglite torch soon.

The above quoted "$300 torch", Supercheap have a cheap red 'Same shape version's also don't get it, same ' bump it & it turns off' problem.

KMart sell a $7 fat stubby black 3 X AAA cell LED torch, buy that one.
It works & the battery pack has springs on each end so it won't loose contact if it's bumped. Good battery life too. Bright light, focusable & 5 settings.

A 'Headlights' very handy. But sometimes you have to put the torch into one gap to illuminate & peer thru a different gap to see. A headlight won't do that.

I honestly thought that a $300 flashlight would include UV LEDs so you could find Antifreeze and Aircon leaks.

marte #54 ,another one very rare . My brakes locked up on all 4 wheels had me thinking what happened in Dunners one wknd away from naseby ,the car wouldn't move ,took an hour to figure it out ,I released the brake master off the booster .undone the 2 bolts holding it to the master vac , walla the brakes come off ,discovered the reaction disc between the master cyl and booster had swollen out ,no clearance.I had a chrysler avenger then .twin carb model .So whittled a a bit off the disc with a razor blade and back on the road to naseby.was a bizarre situation and had me stumped for a while.

yea correct if it was sealed you could not bleed it think about it.
we live in 1 bar atmospheric pressure . its all relevant to know . the systems like in hiace vans who live inside the vehicle will absorb less moisture obviously. especially if you use the vehicle and keep the cabin dry with a working aircon. It all matters gets quite complex real fast.

55 yes the one that mr olivas talks about has all that and that actuarly was "300$ us" its a torch used in aviation with uv addon.
But thats not the point i try to make . Wha i try to say and mr olivas also covers is if you work with 2$ shop tools what does that say about your workmanship. . I could instantly identyf when he said .
What business have you borrowing other peoples tools , they dont belong to you you have not studied them , its almost you want to throw them away. Now while i have some garbage tools also i like to use and own only the best if i can do and afford to.
Example. Non of my mobile phones ever have had a cracked screen.

Commercial dishwashing liquid works well, lasted years, did no damage, only found when car was used for training. Lots of bubbles.

Unless a wheel cylinder is leaking the oil is probably still in the reservoir. Empty that first.

hehe what a waste ,better used for hand cleaner ;-)

#58 Intrade.
Yep, it's like the old saying "You can tell a good Engineer by the quality of his tools"
To that I will add.
"And the reason he's got good tools. Is because he never F#####g lends them ".

Some Brake resiviours are sealed. The ones with the little concertina setup under the cap.
It lets outside air into only the top of the concertina, while the fluids sealed from outside air.

Still. I'm all for sucking out the fluid, add new fluid, bleed the brakes completely.
I use a plastic aquarium one way valve on a clear plastic hose. The jobs a one person job & unbelievably simple.
Brake fluids $15 for 500 mls.