1991 Mitsubishi Pajero problem. Any helpers!

wrf1, Feb 13, 11:45am
Hi, i recently purchased this vehicle, and soon after while driving along it started to miss badly and then broke down. It then wouldn't start. On analizing, i saw the coil arcing when trying to start. I bought this part and it went fine except after it warms up on a drive (it drives perfectly everytime), when i stop, it will struggle to start again. It seems to fire, then cut, fire, cut while trying to start. When i do get it started I rev it up high (3000 revs) until it idles normal, then i can drive off. Once again it will drive perfectly til i stop again. I have since replaced the Petrol filter, high tension distributer lead, spark plugs, replaced the batterty terminals, plus checked for cracks in the distributer. Any ideas!, i'm at a wee loss.

blooma, Feb 13, 12:15pm
blow the farking thing up.

richard198, Feb 13, 1:27pm
Possibly the pulse coil is breaking down at higher temperatures!
.why a Pajero! Why! All the other cars in the world, and you bought a Pajero! (just for those who didn't know; pajero is Spanish for wanker! pronounced.pa - he - ro) Try saying in a Spanish accent. sounds good!

franc123, Feb 14, 5:11am
x1
You have probably found out why it was for sale in the first place.My guess would be an ignition module, the main power relay to the ECU or the ECU itself, they were notorious for intermittent problems in that period.

petermcg, Feb 14, 7:53am
Dont take any notice of the negative stuff. Hey was just wondering if that model has a computer ECU, and if it was possible to get fault codes of it or something. Maybe if you dissconect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect it might reset, or there could be an oil press switch that cuts ign when it loses pressure or something, Dont give up yet.

wrf1, Feb 14, 5:29pm
Thanks Peter, it seems that some replys on one hand are helpful, then on the other hand they want to slap you in the face. To answer you, this is a 3l petrol 6g72, and yes it has an ECU. I took this out last night and at the least physically there are no signs of deterioration on capacitors etc (this still doesn't mean that it's still not faulty). As for the code reader, i didn't get to look for, but this should be by the drivers pedals somewhere, I'll look tonight. There is an artical on the net on how to read the codes with a LED set-up or an old analogue multi-meter. I only have a digital, so i'll try to locate one.

wrf1, Feb 14, 5:36pm
I did take it for a 20k drive last night and this is how it typically behaves. After stopping and turning off the ignition, it starts fine again, and runs fine. I leave it parked for 5 -10 minutes and then restart. The rev counter 'bouces about a bit and slowing the idle speed picks up from about 400 revs to an idle speed of about 800. Then it will be fine. I stop the motor and restart. If i rev up high it'll drop and attempt to stall. If i keep doing this, the same will happen. BUT, again if don't rev it, and let the idling settle, it'll then be fine, even if i rev the motor. To get back to the 'faulty' condition, i again have to stop the motor and re-start. Strange!

ruaphu, Feb 15, 7:57am
Hey we had one of these years ago, good machines if you maintain em. Ours was great for where we lived at the time, go up, down, across, through, over anything, tow anything and all in comfort. Your issues sound very similar to what occured with ours with the hard starting etc. I spent ages trying to figure it and spent a small fortune on bits and many hours working on it. I relented in the end and went to the mitsi dealer. They had it sorted in an hour! They replaced an electronic component, but cannot remember what exactly, from memory it cost $3-400 dollars at the time. We had it for years without any issues after that. To save alot of mucking about and avoid buying unneeded parts, take it in and get the electronic codes 'read' From this the issue 'should' be apparent. then get a second hand part (or a new one if it's a consumable part, ie oxy sensor) yourself and fit it. Good luck

intrade, Feb 15, 8:00am
mitsubishi are called mitsu$hitheap for good reason.
i had a client turn up with a mitsubishi somewhat heap GDi engine not running right i told him to fçk off whit the crap.just seen him today he wont ever buy another mitsuheap again he said . the transmission crapped it selfbefor the gdi engine gave up the ghost.

intrade, Feb 15, 8:05am
perfect normal for a mitsubishi.
all do this guy had a chariot do exactly this same signature feature.
people who buy mitsubishi deserve to walk.
ps the chariot started at times and sometimes not. 15 minute later it started as if nothing was wrong lol.

wrf1, Feb 15, 5:49pm
Thanks Ruaphu, I'm starting to think it's the 'crank angle sensor' from a couple of tests i have done. As for the comment made by "Intrade', (Or should it be Intrude) if you have no constructive answer, how about concentrating on the many, many, many parts you require for your Fiat.

jrlaw, Feb 16, 12:12am
Poor old intrade been sucking lemons again. I have many Mitsubishis and have very little trouble with mine, Do suggest you get yours to the Mitsubishi Dealer who can read the problems with their special reader tool. Best of luck.

ruaphu, Feb 16, 2:47am
Hey Wrf1, no worries, best of luck at the dealer or a suitable place that can read the fault codes. Hey Intrade.I like your fave comment. .'The difference between genius and stupidity-genius has it's limits---Albert Einstien'.
Well based on your BS diatribe we all know now what gene pool your swimming in! Be fair, the chappie has asked for asisstance, not your BS.

wrf1, Feb 16, 8:00am
Thanks again, the reason why I suspect the CAS is that someone else had very similar problems (on a Pajero forum) and it was caused by a bearing located in the distributor. This when warm tended to jam up a bit at idle speed, but was OK when forced to spin at higher rotation speed. When in it's semi rough idling state last night I sprayed a lot of Engine cleaner on it, not to clean but to give it a quick cool down. The engine suddenly started to accellerate to a higher idle speed (actially to about 1200 revs). I may be wrong, but who knows. Anyway I'm taking this to 'Cool Car Air Conditioning' tomorrow to get the AirCon fixed and they said they will look at this problem as well. I know that they do relatively good mechanical work as well, as they changed my sons Auto Trans. Fingers crossed.

guest, Jun 26, 11:39pm
Hey wrf1 how did you get on?

I have a Delica V6 that's great but once it's warmed up it will cut out at idle and not start again for 15 min, it pop and fart but not enough to start.

The cut only happens at low revs, got the codes out of the ECU and both crank angle and cam angle sensor codes come up but don't suspect them as they both wouldn't fail

I'll be check distributor toinight