Electric Windows Problem

shagged, Jan 26, 2:07pm
So my car battery went completely dead the other day, to the point where the lights on the dash wouldn't even come up when you turned the key.

Charged the battery and car starts up again. The control panel on the drivers door for the electric windows will not work for the rear left window. If you use the controller on that door itself the window will wind down.

Initially when I first started the car again the panel on the driver door would only wind down the drivers window but after a few minutes the font passenger and rear right windows started working.

Any ideas on why the left rear window won't work!

Car is a 2004 Toyota Caldina
richard198, Jan 26, 2:11pm
The flat battery is incidental.
I suspect the driver's door connector block is crook.
(It might just need cleaning)
gadgit3, Jan 26, 2:39pm
x1
You need to reinsinlize the window. turn the car on and hold the window switch up for 10 sec. Do this on all windows and they should all work again. The window switch will have a small green light in it that will be blinking if you look close enough. Once you do the switch thing it will be glowing solid.
richard198, Jan 26, 2:41pm
Fancy stuff!
kazbanz, Jan 26, 2:44pm
Follow thissequence. -ignition on-put window down with the door switch.
ignition off. wait 5 seconds. ignition on window up with window switch.ignition off. -then the window will work normally.
--I'm suprised the other two windows just "came back" more than the one not.
gadgit3, Jan 26, 2:54pm
x2
Opps sorry gave you Prado reset. Caldina slightly harder lol
Turn switch on, window right down and hold switch for 2 sec once at the bottom. Then window right up and hold switch up for 2 sec once at the top. Job done light should stop blinking.
You shouldn't have to turn ign off between up and down.
crzyhrse, Jan 26, 2:55pm
You've got to be joking! What possible good reason could there be to justify such a rigmarole!
crzyhrse, Jan 26, 2:57pm
Have Microsoft played a role in the design!
gadgit3, Jan 26, 2:57pm
x2
You have to reset the limit switchs for the window after loss of power. This is for jam protection and one touch auto up and down fuctions.
shagged, Jan 26, 3:04pm
Thanks for that I will give it a crack. I am assuming you mean I need to do this reset with the actual controller on the left rear door itself seen as the drivers controller doesn't work yet.

As for your comment richard I don't think you are correct there as the windows were working completely fine prior to the battery dying.
gadgit3, Jan 26, 3:29pm
Correct at the left hand door it's self. Check the others have a solid light also and not blinking. You may have to do them to get jam protection working right.
shagged, Jan 26, 3:36pm
gadgit3 wrote:
Opps sorry gave you Prado reset. Caldina slightly harder lol
Turn switch on, window right down and hold switch for 2 sec once at the bottom. Then window right up and hold switch up for 2 sec once at the top. Job done light should stop blinking.
You shouldn't have to turn ign off between up and down.[/quote

BRILLIANT that sorted the problem out, windows back to normal now. Thanks heaps
tonyrockyhorror, Jan 26, 3:50pm
They used to do that with high current (stall) delatching. It never needs commissioning or resetting.

Excessive extra complexity for negligible advantage.
yeahm8, Jan 26, 3:53pm
good stuff.
kazbanz, Jan 26, 6:25pm
WELL wadda ya know. You learn summat new every day-The ignition off part was told to me by a Toyota tech at the local franchise.-In fairness it was a generic reply for all smaller toyota's of that generation. -Fielder,caldina,corolla,vitz etc.
I MUCH prefer that system tonissans button that you have to remove the door inner panel to push the reset.
Why doya reckon the other two windows "just worked"
gadgit3, Jan 26, 6:33pm
x1
Yea not to sure were the switching off part comes from unless they had the procdure for replacing the window motor mixed up in there. may still work but is not required.

As for the other windows working no idea but how dead was the battery! as each window switch has it's own ECU maybe the only one to loose all power was the LHR
kazbanz, Jan 26, 7:01pm
gadgit--it DEFINITELY does work.I did it to a fielder yesterday.
I'll try dropping the ignition off bit with the next one I put a new battery in.
mucchu, Jan 26, 7:03pm
Have you tried the techincal tap!
shagged, Nov 5, 4:54am
I think I may have reset them without knowing it as they didn't work initially so I wound them down with their respective controls.guess I just fluked it with the timing when I did it.