a Subaru engine. Just done a crankshaft and camshaft oil seal change on a 2.5 litre, quad cam engine. Changed water pump and sprockets and idlers. I put cambelt on and when putting last belt idler back, the port (left from drivers' seat) camshafts moved. Before this, all belt/sprocket marks were in line, but marks moved when belt tightened. I went back to drawing board and now all marks in line with belt fully tensioned. A check with my spare engine (supposedly stuffed) shows all marks in line with all idlers fitted.
Just want to check with the experts - what is the correct timing marks/tension arrangement - all in line with bottom idler off, or all in line with belt fully assembled and tensioned. TIA.
thunderbolt,
Jun 2, 4:24pm
Buy a Gates Belt or a genuine belt and the it has the marks on it to line everything up. Do not re-use the hydraulic tensioner and IF it has the guide plate above the crank sprocket ensure there is clearance around around the belt. Don't just look from above, as the radius of the plate makes it look ok. Slide some business cards or similar in between to ensure there is clearance. Biggest single cause of failure after replacement is mis-alignment of this plate
clanky,
Jun 2, 4:45pm
All genuine parts from Subaru main agent - $675.00 the lot. New tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulleys, seals, belt, water pump and oil pump seal. No gude plate fitted. All marks lined up, but sprocket marks moved when putting on bottom idler (last to be fitted according to instructions). Have moved left bank camshafts slightly to ensure all belt and sprocket marks are lined up AFTER last idler was fitted. I'm just asking if this is OK before starting the engine. Thanks.
pup2,
Jun 2, 4:53pm
All lined with belt fitted is correct. Also, wind over engine by hand before starting. This is to ensure it turns over without anything "touching".
clanky,
Jun 2, 4:57pm
Turned engine by hand. No problems and compression on all four units. Many thanks for advice received. Now to start the bugger.
tonyrockyhorror,
Jun 2, 5:59pm
Timing is always to the marks once tensioned as you have done. Sometimes it helps to add in a little compensation for when the tensioning comes on, as you've found. As per the example below, turn the left pair counterclockwise a few degrees and the right pair clockwise a few degrees so when the tensioner is released and the little slack taken up they are correctly timed. http://iforce.co.nz/i/se43otbf.psi.jpg
clanky,
Jun 3, 1:34am
Thanks to all that advised. Engine fired first time, no problems. All fine and no leaks. Now, if anyone has a trick for getting a rusted in front drive shaft out of the hub, please send answers on the back of a $50 note to.
hondalova,
Jun 3, 2:17am
we had same issue with the rusted in driveshaft. we just replaced the complete hub/ shaft assembly. we tryeda 15ton hydraulic press and a lot of heat.
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.