So just to clarify, i take the sump off,and remove oil pump, will i need to remove just the oil filter or the whole alloy filter housing and try to blow with compressed air through the gallery. Is that what i should try!
gadgit3,
Aug 2, 8:38pm
The oil pump is not just as simple as just removing the sump. The oil pump is intergrated into the water pump housing/engine front cover so it's cambelt off strip front of engine bla bla. shes a big job to get the oil pump out.
stewart85,
Aug 2, 8:58pm
Thats too big for me to tackle. Its not a tilt cab so almost engine out, eh!
mrfxit,
Aug 2, 9:12pm
Theres more to the potential damage problem. Excessively high oil pressures have been known to scour the white metal off of bearing shells. It's a real wonder that she's not knocking or spewing oil out of the crank & or cam seals
thunderbolt,
Aug 2, 9:16pm
I wondered why it was not pouring out past the main seals etc, maybe the pressure issue is localised in the filter housing area, so the bearings etc are not seeing the pressure spike! Or maybe when the pressure spike happens the bearings see no oil pressure at all!
steve312,
Aug 2, 9:17pm
As mentioned above.The place to start is to remove the oil pressure sender from the filter housing and connect a manual pressure gauge to check the pressure at cold idle.It should only be around 20psi.I would be doing that before I started pulling the front off the engine.
I would be surprised if it is in the pump anyway as the pressure is getting from the pump to the filter, and the bypass and pressure relief valves are both in the oil cooler, filter housing.The oil restriction must be between the filter and all the oil feed galleries.
stewart85,
Aug 2, 9:29pm
Thanks i will put on a pressure gauge and report back, may take a few days
snoopy221,
Aug 3, 3:59am
End of the day it is a !Downstream! valve-that opens WITH the flow. Somehow it is DEFINATLY binding in it's housing-Personaly i'd be pulling that housing off again and getting it reamed to MORE clearance-and incedentaly i'd get the machine shop to throw the damn housing in the freezer and check it for binding when cold.
intrade,
Aug 3, 5:42pm
its blocked or partial blocked so its not blocked to the filter the blockage is after the filter . or the filter would not go bang. I advise to find the problem or you run the engine dry , I told you to whack the rockercover off and see if it oils the top or not should be plenty oil when you rev it everywhere from cam shaft.
intrade,
Aug 3, 5:44pm
x1
plenty parts for these . i ahve put my worn engine in the metal scrap. as i wont be having another toyota Diesel of that L type
bill_horton,
Aug 15, 11:37pm
Hey mate if you or anyone else is having this problem I went through the exact same thing, running huge pressure through the filter causing it to burst. What happens is strangely enough the steel pressure relief piston in the oil filter/cooler housing will wear quicker than the aluminium housing. This wear causes it to bind up and jam. Mine had done it 3 times and on that third time I gave the engine a flush out with a detergent based additive. Each time it had blew off I had found the piston was stuck in its bore it slides within. It'd take a me poking it with a screw driver to straighten it up before it would drop out. Anyway I replaced the piston which was measured and had I fact worn. I haven't had the issue since.
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