We have just finished a restoration project on a classic and want to know how many km's you run the car for with running in oil! I was told around 100km's and then give it an oil change and use regular oil, other websites say 500k. What's your opinion!
m16d,
Nov 27, 2:56pm
I call it wearing out oil. Somewhere between 100 and 500 would be plenty.
bellky,
Nov 27, 3:13pm
Use the oil recommended for the engine, not running in oil (whatever that is).
If you want to be super anal drop oil and filter after 20mins or so. then drop the next lot at circa 800kms.
If not so anal just drop oil and filter about 800kms.
kazbanz,
Nov 27, 3:26pm
IMO it depends on what was done exactly and what the vehiclke actually is. If it was a full engine rebuild costing a LOT of money I wouldn't be mucking around. Id be using mineral oil and dump the oil/filter first time after 50km. This will be enough Hopefully to float any remaining metal "dust" into the filter from the little nooks and crannies.Basicly giving the engine a flush out. Then again using a mineral oil buta better quality one I'd be running for 500km easing the revs up so the engine isn't reving really high or lugging at low revs. Work up to bursts at full rpm as you are at the 500km After 500km Then use the oil you would normally use. This gives the engine its best chance of a long life. I can't over emphasise the use of Mineral rather than semi or fully synthetic oil. Your rings just won't bed in propperly on synthetic. My advice is based on personal experience running in older air cooled steel bore race engines.
kazbanz,
Nov 27, 3:26pm
IMO it depends on what was done exactly and what the vehicle actually is.Modern nicasil bored stuff is pretty eaasy to run in . Older steel bore stuff takes longer If it was a full engine rebuild costing a LOT of money I wouldn't be mucking around. Id be using mineral oil and dump the oil/filter first time after 50km. This will be enough Hopefully to float any remaining metal "dust" into the filter from the little nooks and crannies.Basicly giving the engine a flush out. Then again using a mineral oil buta better quality one I'd be running for 500km easing the revs up so the engine isn't reving really high or lugging at low revs. Work up to bursts at full rpm as you are at the 500km After 500km Then use the oil you would normally use. This gives the engine its best chance of a long life. I can't over emphasise the use of Mineral rather than semi or fully synthetic oil. Your rings just won't bed in propperly on synthetic. My advice is based on personal experience running in older air cooled steel bore race engines.
gmphil,
Nov 27, 3:50pm
100 bed in cam 500 bed in rings never at same speed ,drive round town lots lights
floscey,
Nov 27, 3:53pm
If your engine is flat tappet style. Be sure to add extra zinc additive to protect cam and lifters on run in.
splinter67,
Nov 27, 3:55pm
and lots of deacceleration and agree with kaz re the mineral oil
nzoomed,
Nov 27, 4:07pm
Its an MGB 1800 engine if thats any help. The engine reconditioner gave us the pack of oil when he did the engine, the whole engine has been fully rebuilt, but i dont remember him saying how long to use it for. Ive never heard about mineral oil being used for running in engines before.
mazzyz,
Nov 27, 4:14pm
bellky wrote: Use the oil recommended for the engine, not running in oil (whatever that is).
Using normal oil instead of running in oil will glaze up the pots, lessening the all important 'seal' of the engine.
mazzyz,
Nov 27, 4:14pm
bellky wrote: Use the oil recommended for the engine, not running in oil (whatever that is)."
Using normal oil instead of running in oil will glaze up the pots, lessening the all important 'seal' of the engine.
phillip.weston,
Nov 27, 4:51pm
the first 20 mins is the most crucial for running in an engine. I would drop the running in oil after say 100kms and replace with normal mineral oil for the next 1000kms then replace again for regular intervals after.
kazbanz,
Nov 27, 4:57pm
Ok DEFINITELY I'd suggest doing what I posted. Don't panic about not knowing oil types.Just make sure the pack DOESN'Tsay synthetic,fully synthetic or semi synthetic. The reason behind this is that you need for your rings to bed in propperly and synthetic oil just doesn't let that happen. Once the rings are bedded in no problem. Did the mechanictell you about running the engine in! Being gentle to start with -easing the revs up as the miles increase.
bellky,
Nov 27, 5:03pm
Don't be too gentle^ - you want to keep the revs down to start with, but you want to put the engine under some load; this will push your rings out evenly and bed them to the bores.
mugenb20b,
Nov 27, 5:23pm
Monograde, 30 weight.
nzoomed,
Nov 27, 5:26pm
He never said anything about that, that i recall. Its pennzoil running in oil, so is certainly not synethic oil. I am aware about bores being glazed if not run in properly and i do agree that most of it happens in the first 20 mins, which is a pain because we have to spend alot of time tuning up the carbs first before we can even get it on the road. I know some people say that giving the engine lots of revs is cruical when the engine is used for the first time, as you only have 20mins for the rings to bed in or else you get glazed bores, although im not so sure about doing that to a new engine. Either way, the key is to run in the engine without trying to do damage at the same time.
esprit,
Nov 27, 5:37pm
Recently done this with my own high performance engine. Running in oil from first startup and get the engine under load IMMEDIATELY. use a lower rev limit first and varied throttle positions, but minimal idling and plenty of acceleration/deceleration. Also don't let the engine labour in high gear at low RPM either. Lots of gearchanges and speed and load variation. Drop the running in oil and change filter after about 30 minutes running and replace with a new filter and a second lot of running in oil. Run this for the next 1000km or so. During this time keep the engine loaded and varied, no long periods of cruise or idling, full-throttle blasts and snapping the throttle shut are good.
Over that 1000km gradually open up more and more of the rev range with occasional blasts higher up until you're using the fill rev range on odd occasions. After this you can drop the oil, change filter and fill with the final oil of your choice and use the engine normally.
kazbanz,
Nov 27, 6:37pm
MMMMM---errrr um yeaaaa kinda. Old car/old technology I woulkdn't get hung up onsome magic time figure. Sure use 20 minutes as a guideline. I personally prefer to run the engine for 5 minutes -let it cool-10minutes-let it cool -20 minutes--let it cool etc.-increasing rpm and load a bit each time.--I also prefer to run 1 jet richer than optimum whilst running in But then once the engines done its time its on a dyno getting the jetting done anyway.
kazbanz,
Nov 27, 6:39pm
esprit-what generation is your motor from! -not being a smart beggger its just that running in methodology has changed in the last few years --ie to suit the tighter tolerance engines. Ahh feck sound like a propeller head. sorry
elect70,
Nov 27, 9:02pm
Lot depends on theengine & if its had rebore& clearances are tightI used running in oil l for500 kmsin my 318 charger afterfull rebuild & mods, bed the rings in real good.
floscey,
Nov 27, 9:21pm
cast iron rings vs moly / chrome rings!
strobo,
Nov 27, 10:25pm
took words out my mouthyes the cast rings as in older stuffuse running in oiland HSS high stress steel rings or chrome moly asin more modernenginesnot required though .just use the usual grade of oil for that engine,newer engines fit up rings dry ,
strobo,
Nov 27, 10:25pm
Took words out my mouthyes the cast rings as in older stuffuse running in oilandthe HSS high stress steel rings or chrome moly asin more modernengines running in oilnot required though .just use the usual grade of oil for that engine,newer engines fit up rings dry ,just a dob of oil on the piston skirt for assembly
nzoomed,
Nov 28, 12:12am
Got the engine going for the first time today, but unfortunatley i think there may be a problem with the auto, its a borg warner 35, makes a terrible knocking sound when idle, gets worse if you rev it, transmission doesnt seem to go into gear either, may start another thread on this.
intrade,
Nov 28, 12:14am
i dont know but i never used running in oil just normal cheap correct oil and change it after 100h running
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