Brake declaration

noswalg, Jan 9, 4:44am
Has anybody successfully carried out a brake declaration themselves on a bike needing to go through compliance? Lots of stuff on the interweb saying yes you can or no you can't do it yourself. The form I have has some attached legislation but doesn't say anything about who is required to fill out the declaration.
attitudedesignz, Jan 9, 4:50am
Needs to be done by a "competent" person.

Just do it yourself.
tigertim20, Jan 9, 6:09am
Yes, I have done it myself.

anyone can do it. easy as.

the hardest part was getting the actual form
dave653, Jan 9, 6:23am
If it's all 'bolt on', looks like the factory put it there, why bother?
noswalg, Jan 9, 9:24am
Thanks, I may give it a go. Got a form from the compliance place which he told me to take to a bike shop and get it done, I thought it was strange he was giving me a form so maybe he just didn't want to outright tell me to do it myself.
noswalg, Jan 9, 9:27am
Because the stupid red tape beauracracy says I have too, I also have to pay a repair certifier to tell me the bike is fine even though it only had a stationary fall on its side and cracked the fairing in 2 places and broke an indicator.
lookoutas, Jan 9, 7:32pm
OK - not being a biker, lets fill in the spaces for us dummies.

Does "Brake Declaration" mean the efficacy of the brakes, or that the brakes have been modified?

If it's fallen and broken some parts, then maybe it should be "Break Declaration" :-)
desmodave, Jan 9, 8:03pm
Measure rotor and pads , well that's all i seen the engineer do to mine anyway .
noswalg, Jan 9, 8:20pm
Yep, the same check the compliance man is going to do when I pay him $140 to put a WOF on it. What did it cost you for the brake dec?
noswalg, Jan 10, 6:40am
How did you measure the disc runout? Did you have the appropriate tool?
desmodave, Jan 10, 8:06am
Cant recall exactly but was bugger all as i wasn't there long .
kazbanz, Jan 10, 11:30pm
THAT was a decision made by the insurance company. Im struggling to see in what situation a bike falling over and doing the damaged as you describe would be considered to be uneconomical to repair. But insurers logic has always defied me
Even in the case of it being a brand new (ish) bike where the customer wont accept repair they usually tender the bike registered.
So how did this one get written off?
kazbanz, Jan 10, 11:35pm
Brake disks have a minimum thickness stamped on them-between the bolt holes usually. You aren't replacing anything so all you need to note is the minimum thickness of the disk and measure how thick the disk is at its thinnest point.Im fairly casual about it if theres no visable wear but take up to 6 readings with calipers if there is wear.
If replacing pads or disks etc then you need to note the supplier -give their details and supply the part number of the part (parts)
noswalg, Jan 11, 1:47am
No idea it has a hole in bottom fairing about 5cm x 10cm and a 10cm crack on top fairing by mirror plus it had a slightly bent RH bar which I replaced, both mirrors were missing and front indicators were broken, looks like it has come off its stand onto its side and something has fallen on top of it. Came from CHCH so could have been earthquake damage, as for why it was deregistered who knows? A 95 RF900 may not have been economical for an insurance company to repair as the payout was probably bugger all compared to say new fairings, paint etc if you could even get them.
noswalg, Jan 11, 1:50am
So I definitely don't need to supply a measurement for runout to show the dics aren't warped? There is a field that is not greyed out for this on the form I have.
kazbanz, Jan 11, 1:53am
ahh--older bike.--Front disks most likely will be fine.Rear disk on an rf seems to wear fast.rule of thumb is if theres a visibly noticeable lip in the disk then likely it needs to be replaced.
-Ive owned about 5 of em.--advice for ya if you are interested.
1) F1 engineering do bar risers for them that transforms the riding position.
2)go down two teeth in the rear.-it then feels like it will pull stumps and you only loose top end pace you are unlikely to use anyways,
3) don't over tyre them --makes em handle like a dray-the 170/120 combo works really well -even in a track day situation.
4)steering head bearings get more of a hammering than other bikes
noswalg, Jan 11, 7:26pm
Cheers for that, some good useful info. Bike has a 1/2 worn 180 on the back so will try the 170 next.Haven't bothered looking at the sprocket sizes yet just the condition, has plenty of get up and go off the mark though. Good to know theres a regular on here thats had a bit of experience with this bike, I might need to pick your brain further down the track .
pnp, Feb 10, 10:36am
Just a had a brake dec done for my old 63' triumph. Drums front & rear! Cost $60. Even the bike shop said it was a joke & just to pee-off the compliance guy he recorded the measurements in inch-fractions 'in keeping with the age of the bike!" haha