Changing front brake pads.

hhb, Dec 22, 5:55pm
. how long would it take for a straight forward replacement, on just front brake pads, of Toyota Ist please? Thks

rpvr, Dec 22, 6:31pm
I've done them on my Vitz (which I'm pretty sure has an identical braking system) in about 40 minutes. That's as an amateur and taking my time.

kazbanz, Dec 22, 6:31pm
With no "hidden extras' pad replacement will take a mechanic under half an hour.

tamarillo, Dec 22, 6:57pm
Me in my garage 1 hr. Workshop with hoist and stuff, less.

supernova2, Dec 22, 8:59pm
Quick run down:
Jack it up - 2 mins
On stands - 2 mins
Remove wheels - 3 mins
Remove old pads - 4 mins
Push back pistons - 2 mins
Fit new pads - 4 mins
Refit wheels - 3 mins
Remove stands and lower - 3 mins
Torque wheel nuts - 2 mins
Bed in pads - 5 mins
Total: 30 mins

On a hoist: A tad longer as you have to drive in, set up the hoist arms, lift car, do all the same things as DIY, then lower car, remove hoist arms.

yz490, Dec 22, 10:29pm
Force the pistons back, no room for fluid in reservoir, lift cap of & overflow everywhere & a hell of a mess to clean up. That'd be 'me' doing it lol, so don't fall for 'that' trap.

rpvr, Dec 22, 10:37pm
I have an old plastic syringe which I have kept for years for the purpose. Suck up fluid and discard until at the low mark. After the job is finished it will have come up maybe half way to the full mark. Top up with new fluid.

henderson_guy, Dec 22, 11:02pm
or crack the bleed nipples before retracting pistons, then you're not pushing old fluid back through the system

bwg11, Dec 23, 12:06am
Interesting thought. I've never done this, but it makes very good sense. Why put possibly contaminated and cooked fluid back into the system. Is this practice common in the trade?

audi_s_ate, Dec 23, 12:09am
This I have always done and I think it is considered best practice. I doubt more than 30% of mechanics? would actually do this - one of the many reasons I have learnt the skills to service our cars myself.

m16d, Dec 23, 1:14am

sr2, Dec 23, 1:17am
Yes it's considered good practice.

lookoutas, Dec 23, 7:43am
Jeez - you work for IAG?

Hey tama - the outlay of a hoist is for the garage's benefit, and needs to be recouped by saving time.

saturn51, Dec 23, 9:26am
Pump the brake pedal before you start the car.

clark20, Dec 23, 9:47am
Writing up bill, getting customer to pay, them talking for 10 mins etc etc etc is the other 30 mins

supernova2, Dec 23, 10:01am
Exactly, plus sourcing the parts and so on but the OP question was "how long to replace".

Now if this was a quote for IAG delete everything apart from insert new pads. We all know IAG jobs are completed by magic!

franc123, Dec 23, 12:32pm
Wow, a lot of people in this thread in a hurry to prove how unprofessional you are, not one mention of proper assessment, measurement and preparation of the rotors if machining or replacement not deemed necessary, inspection (and hopefully not unsiezing), cleaning and lubing of caliper slide pins, inspection of piston dust boots, check for proper sliding fit of pad in caliper frame, either tight or loose, some pads regardless of brand and price are absolute shockers for accuracy of fit, checking all antirattle shims and springs are ok, proper bed in of new pads which takes longer than 5 minutes. Neglect of any or all of these things means NVH problems at best and reworks at worst. Its an hour job minimum done PROPERLY, even a pre test drive can help with assessing what components may need the most attention paid to them.

rpvr, Dec 25, 2:01am
So you would write all that on your invoice, so we know you have done it?

ozz1, Dec 25, 2:49am
lookoutas wrote:
Jeez - you work for IAG?

IAG ha brilliant comment :)

kazbanz, Dec 25, 2:50am
Franc- You PHYSICALLY do all this every time you change pads?
OR do you check the slides all work smoothly as you remove the pads?
NOT smooth sliding then look deeper.
Disks are grooved or not. If grooved again look further.
I said half an hour with no extra work needed.

tony9, Dec 25, 2:55am
Agree totally with franc bringing this up, I was thinking about it. OP looks to be a home DIY person, it is very appropriate that they are reminded of all that stuff. It is not just as simple as taking out old pads and putting in new ones, at least it should not be.

kazbanz, Dec 25, 3:03am
Yea good point.
I Don't think too much about the stuff Franc mentions because checking that stuff is second nature.

franc123, Dec 25, 3:23am
For what reason? Most motorists wouldn't understand it.

franc123, May 3, 11:03am
Absolutely it all gets checked and it isn't 'extra' work, its about doing it properly the first time by spending a bit of extra time and customer satisfaction. Grooving? Now you see that's only ONE possible rotor ailment, disc thickness variation, or DTV is of equal concern, a rotor surface may look visually flat and smooth but actually isn't, if you put a straightedge across the surface or even rub your fingers back and forth quickly across it, you will see and feel it, variation here is what causes shudder, squeaking and even imbalance failure on the rollers in extreme cases., On new pads which are flat they can't have the same contact area on a humpy rotor until a LOT of wear has occurred, long after normal bed in procedures have been done. This is a lot of the reason why rotor machining or replacement is recommended every time. I could make some rude remarks about work done to a price by dealers here but I won't :)

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