What do people reckon is the best way round to do this?
It has been shed stored for the last 18 or 19 years by me. I originally built it in 73.
I am thinking sort out the brakes, get the engine running well, charging, lights etc, then rock up to VTNZ for a recert or whatever it needs.
Then after its all passed and good to go get the respray done and tidy up the inside.
Any thoughts.
I was thinking of buying a new car to celebrate getting old, but reckon the MM will do that in style.
mrfxit,
Aug 8, 1:13am
Most of the suspension rubberwear will be pretty suspect Really tho, most of ANY rubber hoses etc will be pretty suspect. Carb gaskets Brake cylinders Fuel lines & pump diaphragm.
Also Brake drums rusted & cylinder pistons seized. Engine oil to be changed before starting Radiator ?
mrfxit,
Aug 8, 1:15am
Do the above then take it to your local garage for a wof check & tell them to be fussy, (Of course they can't enter the details but thats not the point) Will be well worth the extra cash before taking it in for a cert
kenw1,
Aug 8, 1:23am
Our local garage and the recert place are really the same place.
Guess I will have to trailer it in for the cert?
Was thinking of getting rid of that awful SU fuel pump at the same time.
The back springs have spacers on them to lower it a bit, but they were there before 1990.
The spring bushes are easy, just the torsion bar that is a plik of a job.
mrfxit,
Aug 8, 1:27am
It's more of the cost obligation & time limit for repairs thing once you book it for a cert
kenw1,
Aug 8, 1:51am
How long do you get is it 28 days?
tintop,
Aug 8, 5:03am
Keep the SU pump, it gives the passenger something to do with the right foot - helps pass the time as you idle along :)
mrfxit,
Aug 8, 1:33pm
I think so?, but it's a lot more expensive then a custom "wof" type inspection. With the suggested wof inspection in this case, theres no real obligation to do anything within the time frame allocated & no booking / rebooking hassles
kenw1,
Aug 8, 2:56pm
Not much idling in this one, when I built it we had the engine worked over, bored out, new 731 (I think) cam, main bearing strap, head skimmed etc, it used to pull 70mpn in third and good for over a ton in 4th (mph).
It had twin SU's on it, but they have disappeared :-(\
Anyone give me a ballpark for a good respray job? it has some surface rust only around the body. What am in for $2k or $5k?
bjmh,
Aug 8, 3:34pm
I maintain a 1959 morrie for a truck firm ,the owner has had it since new. its a bit like grand dads original axe. 5 new handles and 6 new heads. I have changed the SU pump to an electronic replica. works well.The first thing I would do is put your morrie on a hoist and see how much rust is lurking under the chassis underseal.As stated brakes ,hoses,bushes etc.
morrisman1,
Aug 8, 4:03pm
provided the body is fine, I would start with a suspension and brake overhaul. new rubbers in all the pivots, check the condition of the lower trunnion thread. Brakes I would suggest all new slave cylinders and an overhauled master cylinder (get it stainless steel lined). The brakes were always a high maintenance item on these and are most likely seized up. A skim of the drums and new shoes will help with stopping performance.
Engine and gearbox wise, just a set of points & condensor, take the sump off and clean it out. give the gearbox and rear diff some new oil. Check the condition of the rubber cooling hoses and water pump. Before you start it for the first time I would prime the oil system and pump, this can be done through the external oil line along the drivers side of the block.
put new grease on every point that requires grease. The old stuff will be dried out most likely .
tintop,
Aug 8, 4:42pm
lol - I came across one of those when I was on a course in Wellington in the mid 60's, I had a MG TF 1250 fitted with a 1622 B series with gearbox and rear axle. Could never quite keep up with the Morrie :)
bwg11,
Aug 8, 5:52pm
Yep, what he says, the oil pump prime is most important on A series, and consider Marina disks on the front as part of the brake system overhaul if it is to become a daily drive.
bryshaw,
Aug 8, 6:57pm
'The engine is open to another form of corrosion, too. When the oil becomes contaminated with soot particles from the combustion process and is heated beyond a certain point, it turns from its normal alkaline state to an acidic state. This acid can attack the metal engine parts and cause corrosion unless neutralized quickly'.
This could cause pitting on the crankshaft after 17 years.
kenw1,
Aug 8, 7:50pm
It was not undersealed ever. I bought it as a brand new body shell. Then spent quite a lot of time, painting the underneath with a special 2 pack paint. It stuck so well, you could beat a piece of metal out and the paint would not come off, bit like you know what to a blanket.
kenw1,
Oct 30, 4:14am
Friend of mine put a Sunbeam Tiger V8 in his Minor. it used win its class at the Brighton speed trials.
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