Passat minor problem--'intrade' where are you!.

2007 TDI strange things going on [ok--that'll teach me for buying it]. reverse beepers have been squealing flat stick for a few weeks, like all of them at once & deafening--but today it's ok so fingers crossed. But--the info screen fades away & is just annoying more than anything. Today it stays bright till motor started then fades out. Have i hit a button or something. Don't have an owners manual. This all seemed to start when i noticed the inside of the drivers window was totaly wet--like major wet. Made no sense till i noticed a pump spray bottle off Mr Muscle glass cleaner in the passenger door pocket that had pressurised & was leaking out into the door pocket. Sounds weird i know but since removing that & airing the car out till totaly dry on the screen this problem's not happened again when the car has been left for say a week of crap weather. Even the little thing with vin number or whatever it is in a separate part within the screen lower passenger side was wet in itself. Now stupid theory but could that severe moisture have affected the information screen & [blame it on everything else that goes wrong from there-on lol]. Thanks in advance.

oh yea you have to make sure the windscreem is not leaking .
Do you have a key to push in to the dash to start?.
Get a dihumidfire in the car and use the aircon to dry things . Then you want to make sure no water ingression. Do you have the same one as i have ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2r7XllwPa4&list=UUxURr525K9YHjxRSVlBr1vA&t=0s&index=41

from what your discribing i think you have corrosion and voltage drop issues .

Yes a key of sorts, put the whole thingy in, bloody pain realy but that's how it starts. Screen's not leaking & not done it since but airing it plenty & letting air blow through, did run the aircon. Just wondered if i hit a button to fade the screen after start up but can't see anything. Mine is the car not the hatch or whatever it's called. Cheers for ya help. ps, link to mine, EDL427.
https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=edl427

This is something i came across a few years ago. The rubber drain tubes below the battery block up. So when the car is parked at the side of the road in the rain the compartment where the battery, brake master and intake for the heater can fill up with the rain. The intake for the heater is on the left hand side and has a 25mm high lip to stop the water coming in. The drains block up. the water runs into the heater intake down the inside of the firewall and under both sides of the false floor, left and right. Thus humidity and the sloshing sound is the start of the problem as the window fogs up. The computer for the trans is in a plastic box under the false floor in front of the drivers seat. The thing people notice is the trans isn't shifting properly. By then the trans computer is wet and knackered. then you have to buy a second hand computer and the 18 pin plug with some of the loom attached and solder the the ^%$#@* thing back in and all is well. The wreckers know his and price it accordingly.

Thanks 'andrewph',got your post twice lol. Sounds like you know your Passat's. I'll check that out thanks. Apart from the fading away screen after starting, everything is working good now, even the reverse beepers all squealing at once for no reason had corrected itself. Love the car but too big for wifey to drive around town easily with high rear window & stuff. another reason we don't take it to town is--it gets of it's arse too quick unless you're very careful soft peddling it--just has us on edge doing that. Maybe start off in 2nd or 3rd would flatten that out if it can be done using the manual changing in the left gate. Can't see the screen so just push lever forward twice maybe. anyway--least of the problems around here. My old Vigor "94 [honda] has a 2nd gear start then holds which is good in slow creeping traffic & just flattens out the torque i suppose. Thanks.

i was in auckland do you have same as i have should be
get some propper blacklion or jinyu tires on it SSA-wheels has a outlet in parlmerston north
I think you have the model after my one.
But screen problems are well knowen i repaired my bora fizscreen with a onhanglow one from wish.com
Be awear is not a easy diy job i have quite comperahensive electronics Gear like that andonstar microscope and weller soldering iron and fux and all to Do future ecu repair probably the holdon computer by the look of things .
On my one under the windscreen you have to remove the plastics and clean the drain. one cover if it fell off would fill the heater blower straight with water from the windscereen. i think its on one of the videos also thats cleaning.
The screen repair i did not video as it was my first time. You dont have time to video when your tense not to F--k up the instrument

this is what i have in my bora onhanglow screen works good so far original had coroded contact on ribbon cable
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64hRG4-jouc

Thanks 'intrade', think i made sense of all you said. I'll check out that drain thanks. Not sure why you suggest changing tires & wheels, mine are original wheels & had new good quality tires when i bought it--all good there. I could see 'me' causing more problems than i have now with the screen so i'll leave that & hope for the best. Link to 'carjam' up top in my earlier post but not a very good photo of the same model car. Thanks for your help.

you said that another reason we don't take it to town is--it gets of it's arse too quick. i interpreted that as that the tyres spin out ?

it looks to be the same car as i have i list all the bad things that will fail .
The good news is your instrument cluster .
You can buy a knowen good one it should work there is no programming on it milage and all is not stored in the BCM below steering collum to prevent easy tempering with milage and immobilizer.
If the lights start to flicker and steering dont unlocks=
thats your steering lock actuator computer module worn out=
New one and programming after fitting . Programming can be a issue as this is extreemly locked down by security and you dont have the codes they are in wolfsburg germany only expensive hacking tools or the factory tool j2534 odis will unlock these codes with uplink via internet to VAG factory server.
The lock it self you can buy cheap enough from likes of ecs.tuning
Next problem will Be Flywheel Dual mass will fail its about 4500$ to do a dsg if nothing else is wrong.
To prolong DSG clutch a eary version of the transmission programm who is more harsh and abrupt in gear changes would be the one to have cant go in to more detail or it be a whole book about that.
engine oil who meets the dpf VAG and is burning clean . i use let me see Total Quartz ineo long live 507 aproofed vw
maximum 10,000km or one year. it can be programmed with a vag compatible scantool.
For parts Diy Look at rockauto Vw use the same parts on any of there VAG groupe vehicles unlike some other nightmare makers
Thats about all DPF delet kit are available from darkside development .
but your car must be registerd before the law came out to not temper with emission and then you need the pipes and remap it and use a time machine to get it done before the law cam in effect. if you know what i mean.
If your vehicle is built or registered after the law then you cant remove anything . eaven if you use a time machine.