Yes please unideck, worth a look - you can try my username at farmside co nz
unideck,
Feb 6, 2:03am
Done, check ya mail :)
unclejake,
Feb 6, 4:58am
Dex, regular car tyres on a heavy trailer is not so flash, but a smaller rim and commercial tyre combo would be the quickest solution, and will last for ages.
Unideck will see you right
mrfxit,
Feb 6, 2:52pm
Not safe to alter that setup without a lot of reinforcing work to the towbar AND probably the chassis mounting points. If you had it modded to take an insert bar & removed the spare wheel to the back seat/ inside the vehicle for when you wanted to use the modded hitch, then yep, that can be done ok
mrfxit,
Feb 6, 2:55pm
Agreed
Already suggested way back at #16
h.e,
Feb 6, 10:27pm
what unideck has sujected is the easiest option,also probably the dearest,do yourself a favour go to a local engineer get some prices for different options
mrfxit,
Feb 6, 10:41pm
What Unideck & myself have suggested is the most LOGICAL long term/ safest/ simplist/ easiest AND easiest to convert back & forth. Cost would be similer for most mods except for converting it back to original (welding options) (tyres option a pure "bolt on" option)
unideck,
Feb 6, 11:58pm
On-ya Dave. I picked that option based on what you stated above, it will give them a drop of 75mm min on the standard wheel set-up with no down time as such, its a DIY job.
h.e,
Feb 7, 1:47am
lowering the trailer coupling without seeing itworse case 6hrs =$360,$100 materials max,thats 1/2 your price.the other option is alter axles reuse the stubs,time 8hrs max =$480,material at a guess $150 =$630 once again well under your $1000,and why would they want to be able to change it back.all i am suggesting is they look at all their options
unideck,
Feb 7, 2:18am
"Reuse the stubs" you are kidding me.
h.e,
Feb 7, 2:21am
why not there generally plug welded in,cut the rhs behind the stub spin it off in the lathe,even with new stubs ive been very generous with time and materials i,d still be cheaper
h.e,
Feb 7, 3:02am
you dont even need to spin it off, cut a rhs same length as the axle rhs, cut the rhs behind the stub,put it on top of the new axle gusset with 80x6 flat done,if a 2nd year apprentice couldnt do that in under 8hrs he needs his arse kicked.think outside the square a bit no need to buy parts to solve a problem
unideck,
Feb 7, 2:58pm
Some people simply need & want the job doing properly and in a professional manner. h.e you sir are just DANGEROUS, period.
dex250,
Feb 7, 3:07pm
I don't want to do anything that compromises the safety of my horses. We are talking about live animals here that cost alot of money & need to be transported safely. I am quite happy to spend $1000 on new tyres if it means a more even load, so long as I could get a bit of money back on my other tyres as they are practically new tyres on 4 year old rims.
mrfxit,
Feb 7, 3:16pm
Re . "he" On a case by case basis . Yes & No If theres plenty of room = yes If room is limited = no Will still only give a 50mm drop & add more weight to the axle.
With that suggestion, it would be better to supply new stubs to suit those hubs / flush cut the axle & mount (full height gusset) a dropper plate/ then drill the dropper plate for the new stub to pass through/ weld & trim off the stub OR. New axle fitted with Trojan stubs (full rubber block suspention type) & mounted direct to the chassis (could even be bolted) It would be a bit less forgiving of uneven ground & harder on the chassis but still an option OR As suggested above = smaller wheels = s/h or new (their choice & option)
mrfxit,
Feb 7, 3:23pm
A tyre company MAY do a good swap/trade in for you. Partly depends on how long you intend to keep that perticuler float
You could take the float to a vehicle wrecker to find a full set of 5 smaller rims that WILL fit & THEN go to a tyre shop for new tyres.
Thatwill cut the cost down a good chunk
The wrecker may even let you borrow a set (for a refundable deposit of course) to see how much difference there will probberly be with smaller wheels.
Depends on how much time & cash you are willing to spend LOGICLY & SENSIBLY on the adjustment
unideck,
Feb 7, 4:23pm
Well, I had the feeling that safety was a strong factor hence my suggestion :) The wheels from the company I emailed you with are specifically designed for not only lowering the trailer/float but also to clear your braking system, it will be a hard road to find 13" rims that will do this in order to fit the 50 series tyres notwithstanding the correct stud pattern will also add to the task.
If the float is lets say "a keeper" then yes sell off the wheels, maybe for the 5x you should get back in reality $400-$500 so its not a high cost at all. By far the easiest one and again something you can do yourself.
elect70,
Feb 7, 5:17pm
I had mobile tandem chiller trailer with same problem . & as ithad a box section draw bar had a step down section fitted ,. !00% better & towed better .Cheapest option . She is right about the tyresthey will be light truck tyres ,required for WOF these daysso wontwant the high cost of replacing with smaller wheel/tyre combo , if its even possible
unideck,
Feb 7, 5:26pm
The 13" 50 series are a commercial spec, 980kg per tyre and 1250kg per wheel. Its not a wof requirement to have either 6 or 8 ply but if carrying consistent heavy loads it is advisable.
ejclark,
Feb 7, 5:29pm
can't you just use lowering blocks!
from the photos of the trailer, it looks pretty level to me!
milkath,
Feb 7, 5:40pm
when unloading put a jack under the draw bar and jack the trailer and back of towing vehicle up a few inches .the trailers back will come down. no cost at all to you. just dont jack the tow vehicle wheels off the ground as it might run away.
mrfxit,
Feb 7, 7:28pm
Go away .
mrfxit,
Feb 7, 7:28pm
Take another look & allow for the small slope behind the trailer
dex250,
Feb 7, 11:08pm
Thanks - where abouts could I advertise the other wheels/tyres. If I kept the rims (in case I decided to change them back in the future), would a tyre shop buy the tyres, or would I be better to sell the rims & tyres together on trademe or the likes!
I intend to keep the float for a long while yet. At least the next 5 years.
unideck,
Feb 7, 11:13pm
Pop them on here in the wheels & tyres section ;) best to sell complete.
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.