I have a horse float thats chassis sits very high off the ground & because my towing vehicle (isuzu wizard) is lower to the ground it tips the front forward making the back higher & of course the ramp into the float steeper. I think the manufacturers made the float this way on purpose for to make it easier to use in paddocks on NZ farms as it was designed & made in the South Island NZ.
What I want to know, is how do I lower it! Would it be the suspension on the float (i.e. leaf springs with a bigger curve) that is making it higher & if so, do I opt for leaf springs that arnt as rounded or go for torsion bars!
I had torsion bars on my last float & it was lighter/nicer to tow & the float was lower, making the ramp lower for the horses to load.
mrfxit,
Feb 4, 10:48pm
Totally depends on your current chassis setup. Can you upload a photo of the underside to TM (open in "my trade/photos"/ expand the photo/ copy & paste the link here in this thread)
Are you bringing it up to Hamilton anytime soon-ish!
berg,
Feb 4, 10:50pm
Will the axle bolt above the springs rather than below it. I have seen this trick used to lower trailers but it depends on how much room you have between the springs and chassis
petermcg,
Feb 4, 11:15pm
What you need to do is make an adjustment to the tow connection or the draw bar, Your trailer is designed for a vehicle that sits higher than yours, so unless you raise the back of your tow vehicle,,, you need to lower the tow connection at the front of the trailer,, this will lift the front of the trailer,, and lower the rear without the need to do anything to the suspension.
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 12:03am
Yep thats one option Depends on how much of a goose neck is needed
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 12:04am
Yep seen it done. many many not so nice names for that sort of trick.
h.e,
Feb 5, 12:16am
thats one way to do it,but to do it properly you will need a new axle made up with the hub on top of the axle or possibly even higher,your guards will also have to be raised
m16d,
Feb 5, 2:18am
Raise your towbar, or put smaller wheels on the float, or both.
petermcg,
Feb 5, 2:21am
40 odd years ago I raised the ass end of a PA vauxhall this way.
unideck,
Feb 5, 2:23am
Before this thread gets all knee deep in guessing type replies, post a photo of the suspension as it is now so we can give you the correct response.
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 3:31am
Opposite to what we are talking about
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 3:32am
Way back at #2
unideck,
Feb 5, 4:41am
I know, obviously must be out of film haha
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:25pm
Mmm ok, good photos. Either of 2 options viable
Simplist would be to have the towbar tongue/ball placed higher on the vehicle. 1: This could possible be done as an "attachment" to the current bar 2: A "step down" could be done on the trailer drawbar just behind the braking unit
1st option would be the cheapest with minimal hassles about towing other ppls trailers 2nd option would be a bit dearer & limits who can tow the trailer
A third option would be to have both axles fitted with dropper end plates. Not as cheap an option considering the brakes location
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:28pm
You could possibly try smaller tyres AND rims. Looks like the hubs would accept smaller rims with lower profile tyres. That MIGHT be enough to make it comfortable to use.
dex250,
Feb 5, 10:32pm
Hmmm, lifting the towbar sounds like a good option, but I already have problems trying to get the coupling down onto the tow bar due to the spare tyre being in the way. I wonder whether its possible to have the tow bar extending out a bit further or whether that will complicate things. I cant take a photo of the back of my car until my hubby gets back at 8:30pm tonight.
dex250,
Feb 5, 10:34pm
Im not too keen on this option as I am towing valuable horses that weight between 500 & 800kg & I rather like my meaty tyres. A friend of mine had regular car tyres on her float & went through them pretty quick on the longer journeys.
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:36pm
Simplist could be a combo of smaller rims /lower profile tyres Small lift on towbar.
Changing the tyres means no alterations & simple to be put back to original if you need to. Only REAL way to check rim (inside clearence) depth is to borrow a rim to bolt on
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:41pm
The "65psi" on the current tyres is simply MAX factory recommended Lifting the towbar by extending the tounge upwards will generally weaken it progressivly the further UP you go
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:43pm
Your friend may have been running pressure to low for the weight or std car tyres instead of commercial tyres
the tongue on your towbar could be extended but i wouldnt recommend it,the extra leverage would eventually break something,people bitch about hitting their shin on towbars all the time and you want yours sticking out even more! lower your coupling on the trailer or alter the axles this should future proof it for your next wagon
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:52pm
The only other option is to fit BRAND NEW Trojan axle sets Possibly sell off the other sets
mrfxit,
Feb 5, 10:58pm
Option list .
1: Raise & extend towbar (weakens the bar) 2: Lower the drawbar with a simple goosneck (may limit other ppl towing the trailer) 3: Lowering plates on the axle stubs (have to lift mudguards) 4: New Trojan axle sets (have to lift mudguards) 5: Smaller commercial tyres/rims (guards can stay where they are)
dex250,
Feb 5, 11:04pm
axle sets are not too expensive aye! Does this include the leaf springs or am I on the wrong track with regards to them!
unideck,
Feb 6, 12:08am
Can get 13" wheels with 50 series tyres that will sort this out, they are specially suited/supplied for lowering trailers/floats etc. The brakes will clear the wheels also so no problems in that department. Each wheel and tyre combo run out at approx $200 so call it a grand and its sorted and the bonus is it can be all done by yourself. If you wish to go this way give me a shout and I will pass you the details on the supplier, deal with them direct to cut out all the middle men in this cut throat industry haha
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