1990 Lancer GL, NZ new, 1500cc. Tidy wee car, but heater fan is a no go. Have heat coming out of the vents, but just no force or accompanying noise to go with it. Anyone familiar with these that can tell me if it is a common fault! Is it more likely to be the blower motor or the rotary type switch for the fan! Anyway to test these things so I don't have to pull the whole lot apart unnecessarily! (All the fuses checked out OK.) If anyone can give some advice I would be very grateful. Cheers:)
skin1235,
Feb 20, 11:23pm
look on the ducting up on the (left) side, you're looking for a small square of plastic with 3 or 4 wires plugged into it held in situation by a screw, remove that small panel, on the back of it you have the rheostats for the various motor speeds if the air flow gets restricted ( leaves in the intake etc) there is insufficient cooling to the rheostat coils and they burn out, thus the motor gets no power, they can often be repaired with a small crimp
bigfatmat1,
Feb 20, 11:24pm
heater resistor or fan motor. the fan is switched negativly from switch through the resistor the fan or resistor are the biggest causes of fan not going. so when checking put ya test light across the pos and neg of heater motor. and work ya way from there
jasongroves,
Feb 20, 11:26pm
Awesome:) Thanks guys, I don't have access to the car again til Wednesday so will check all of the above and post back with results:)
bigfatmat1,
Feb 20, 11:26pm
rheostats are adjustable. the fan uses resistor wire coils
sred69,
Feb 21, 1:46am
does the fan work on full speed! if not then not the resistors. check for power and earth at the motor.if works on full speed only then check the resistor block fitted into the heater ducting behind the glove box.
bigfatmat1,
Feb 21, 2:52am
a resistor can affect all speeds
jasongroves,
Feb 21, 3:01am
Doesn't work on any speed at all.
jasongroves,
Feb 22, 3:13am
So do I need to replace to blower motor! Or can it be repaired easy enough!
jasongroves,
Feb 23, 5:11am
Well.my piece of shit multi-meter has died:( Looks like it got some moisture in it and fried like a death row convict.very sad. Will pick up a cheapy this week some time. (Can't afford a Fluke) I've got a test light somewhere, but the state my shed is in it may as well not exist.lol.
jasongroves,
Feb 23, 8:48pm
No power at the heater/blower motor and no power at the heater fuse or heater relay fuse! Not sure what to check next!
sred69,
Feb 23, 10:23pm
check the blower relay, drivers side of the dash just above the fuse box are a few relays 1 is for the blower, to test just swap them around and see is then works
tgray,
Feb 24, 12:48am
I just spend $25 and replaced the whole unit from pic a part. Pull off the plastic trim, undo the screws, slide the unit out after unplugging it from the back. It takes about 10 mins. Much easier to replace than repair.
jasongroves,
Feb 24, 2:09am
Will do that tomorrow, cheers:)
jasongroves,
Feb 24, 2:10am
Yeah, but I'm not sure if its actually the blower motor at fault yet. I don't want to replace stuff unnecessarily.
jasongroves,
Feb 24, 2:11am
OH, and we don't have a pick a part down here;)
sred69,
Feb 24, 3:43am
just noticed you said you have no feed to both fuse's! one will be probably 30A which is the main motor feed through the relay and the other is probably 7.5A or 10 A which is from the ignition switch and powers the relay to switch the main feed to the motor.
to rule out the motor just power it up direct from the battery its only a 12v DC motor + and -from the battery direct to the connector on the motor if it turns then not the motor.
as it doesn't work on high position on the switch then its not the resistor block as hi position is direct from the relay to give full speed the resistors only slow the motor down,more resistance slower the speed.
jasongroves,
Mar 1, 9:41pm
Have got power to the blower using direct 12v. Cant for the life of me find the relays.they aren't above the fuse box or under the bonnet.
jasongroves,
Jun 5, 2:40pm
Have power at the fuses now too.
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