hi guys, recentaly bought a endless chain hoist off another guy on here. it's rated to 1.5t and is "beaverblock" brand.
the clutch plates or shims, i'm not sure what to call them, are worn down and as a result of this it doesnt hold a load.
where could i try and get some replacement parts for this, i've googled them and gone to their website, i didnt see any links and the only service centres are over in aussie where it was made.
if you need to know, the discs are 1.74mm thick 36.7 id and od is 67.9m
i've tried researching but any searching and keywords bring up either motorbike chain service, clutch repair in a car or 2 post hoists.
cheers for any input
skin1235,
Jun 12, 3:07am
can you post a pic - endless chain hoists don't have clutches, shims or plates so I'm thinking you have something you call 'endless' that actually isn't
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:17am
1 moment mate, ill get one up now
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:18am
Mine does . ;-) Some brake repair/engineeringshops have sheets of brake material suitable for cutting replacement disks. I had to do this late last year for the same reason. You may have to sand the new disks down a little to fit correctly & may not, no way to tell without seeing yours & doing the job. I got an off cut that had enough room to cut the new disks.
Yea they are called "chain blocks or chain hoists" now, but yea slightly different
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:30am
Yep same system as mine. Same problem, same fix or new parts MIGHT be lucky to find replacements/ might have to make your own. Mine cost me $20 for the material & some delicate cutting/ testing & trimming, but it works like new again What condition are your chain guides
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:35am
Arrh yes Skin, you are correct,my endless chain block doesn't either, but my chain block does. HATE using an endless chain to move things horizontally. Chain hoist much better but not perfect
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:36am
the chain guides look like they've plenty of life left, still deep and defined so hopefully they won't let me down anytime soon (forgive the pun)
yeah i was thinking what about an angle grinder cut-off disc with the centre punched out to be the same diameter, though thats probably a big no-no because it'll be really abrasive
yeah i'll do as you did and perhaps go to a brake/engineering shop and ask if they can help, my search online has been fruitless
skin1235,
Jun 12, 3:36am
okay what you actually both have is 'chain falls' - an endless chain is just that, an endless chain, the load lifting and lifting control is done by the same chain, it runs on dis-similar sized chain pulleys locked to each other
what you guys have is a chain controlled geared wheel driving the lifting spindle - both chains are rarely the same size and definitely not the same (endless) chain and in sir-bens case the friction locks are worn down - you maybe able to simple pack them with a shim ( large washer) cut from scrap tin, would also pay to keep that side of the hoist better lubed - half the issue would be the partial application and partial release due to dry threads in the friction hubs - you need to keep the threaded portions greased and try not to get it on your friction faces
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:37am
is there a difference between the two i though it was just a different name for it
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:40am
you sound like you know what your talking about when these mechanisims!
perhaps a washer out of copper so it's soft!
will do that upon re-assembly, dust off and grease the threads
skin1235,
Jun 12, 3:45am
, there is a difference, your one uses toothed gears to drive yet another spindle that lifts the load while an endless chain is a single chain loop that runs over say a 12 tooth pulley down through a non toothed pulley you attach the load to and back up then over a say 10 or 11 tooth pulley, hangs a lazy loop in the air and joins to the end of where you started, as you pull the lazy loop the load loop shrinks by 1 or 2 teeth per revolution ( and you have gained a 12 to 2 advantage or 12 to 1 advantage = 10kg pull on your arm - 120kg load lifted ) they used to make them up to 36 tooth over 35 tooth, a 5 yr old could lift 10 ton
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:50am
DON'T shim them. They work on BOTH sides of the friction disks I got my cutoff for $20 & they wanted $20 to lathe them. I wasn't in a hurry so did them myself.
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:51am
LOL yep . when they were in good to new condition & god help you if you got the chains twisted & jammed with a heavy load on.
skin1235,
Jun 12, 3:53am
copper would do fine, it is going to become one of the friction faces
the photos you posted shows a real old type of system, not too sure how much control you have over release, did they wind down or use backward pressure to slide down
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:53am
ah cheers, yeah easy enough to understand i don't have an endless chain now
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:54am
DO the friction pads CORRECTLY . it's simply not worth the risk of it giving way under load. Yes I looked in to shimming it as well & discovered really fast that it won't work
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 3:55am
Nope don't do it. Friction all the way up & simply tug the other chain to friction pull down, hence the warnings to do it correctly. Mine started to JUMP down when the disks got too badly worn.
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:57am
well usually what i understand happens if as you turn the wheel it screws in on itself and tightens against the ratchet disc so the ratchet is only applied when lifting the hook up, then when you turn it so the hook lowers, the pressure goes off the ratchet gear and it's free to fall
sir-ben,
Jun 12, 3:59am
yep, i will replace the parts properly, don't want to have to do it again
skin1235,
Jun 12, 4:04am
crank up and friction release down!
theres some common source for 2mm thick friction disk but cannot for the life of me think where sir-ben - try as dave did the local brake repairs shop, they should have some, along with warnigs about sanding it and cutting it etc - its aspestos so try to avoid the dust, you have quite a bit of leeway in those actuator threads, the material could be quite thick before it became too thick
skin1235,
Jun 12, 4:12am
and yes the grinding disk idea may work for a while but I'd suspect it would be too brittle, you'd not like one to crack and pop out at the wrong moment
If it were mine and I could not find suitable disks I'd think seriously about F2' ing some 1200 grit to both sides of one disk ( for a start, and if it worked glue onto the other disk too) but that would be a oncer to keep it running until I could get friction plates for it and not something I'd enjoy working under or around
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 4:35am
Think about why BOTH sides of BOTH disks are worn.
mrfxit,
Jun 12, 4:42am
Sand paper/disk's will shred or wear to thin on the 1st pull Grinding disks will also crap & shatter or wear out the metal surfaces pretty fast & probably not grip very well. Believe me . The 1st time the hook with a load on it JUMPS down about a foot, it scares the crap out of you
skin1235,
Jun 12, 4:47am
wee palpitations of the left tit there dave, lol, could make it hard to sleep for a few nights too I'd imagine
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