^ Personally I think the EWPs are great, but we did have a few failures with the Davies Craig units. Despite that they are probably the best available option still.
Just one point: Too much water speed (flow rate) will reduce to cooling of the engine so check that out before you buy. As I understand it a fast moving liquid has less time to absorb heat from the block. That sort of makes sense
falcon15,
May 16, 3:52am
I have built two offroaders with the radiator mounted on the back. one with a ca18det and the second with a 1uzfe both times i have kept the factory water pump with no problems at all it circulates the same as if the radiator was in the front. On of the guys in our 4wd club switched to the electric water pump setup and noticed no differance at all. Out of the 10+ trucks in our club with the radiators on the back he is the only one with the electric pump setup. If you do decide to get the electric pump you need to get the full setup or the pumps dont last as long if there running constantly, fighting the thermostat and factory pump
unclejake,
May 16, 3:57am
^ Normally one would remove both the thermostat and mechanical pumpwhen converting to an EWP.
I think the biggest advantage in my application (classic race car) was the cooling at low revs, such as when you are at a standstill on the start finish line for more than a couple of minutes.
stevo2,
May 16, 4:05am
Unclejake is correct here. the water needs to run slowly through the block toeffectively cool the engine. Cheers Stevo
falcon15,
May 16, 4:20am
Yes the correct way is to get the fully kit and remove the old pump and thermostat but the electric control unit that temp sensor costs about the same amount as the pump its self so some cheap people just get a pump, slap it in and wonder why they keep burning out pumps
clark20,
Feb 26, 5:53am
Meant to sorted now, some of the seals/moldings did not take the high temp well I believe, causing some failures
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