Ok, I have a few projects I would like to chuck some paint at, mainly old bikes, so not large surface areas or anything. I usually get frames powder coated, but have the odd pressed steel frame, and a lot of guards, leg shileds, wheel hubs etc to do.
My question is, I have a small compressor and spray gun, and would love to have a go, but what paint do I use.! (and where do I get it) - getting confused with the types of paint available, and colour options.
I have blasting equipment (cabinet and gun) so can strip things ok, and would like to etch prime for a resilient base coat. I have done a few engines with the likes of VHT rattle cans and they came out pretty good, but have put off setting the gun up.
What is realistic for a home user in the shed.!
cheers
tazcsv,
Aug 6, 1:17am
Go for it, Im no painter but i painted my trailer at the weekend and it looks fine. Going to do my quad bike frame one night this week.Iv only used 2k primer/paint and a good clear it works great but not cheap. You wont know till you give it ago.
sifty,
Aug 6, 1:29am
yeah pretty keen, just getting more confused the more I read on types of paint etc.
have heard 2k is the way to go for resilience etc, but bit unsure of the process, and where to buy.
tazcsv,
Aug 6, 1:43am
I would only use 2k now, You must have a auto paint shop somewhere! Even down here in Invers we have a few shops that sell auto paints.
tazcsv,
Aug 6, 1:44am
Sorry just looked and see your in invers, try Southern Paints thats where i get my paint from.
sifty,
Aug 6, 1:58am
Cool, ta. Will call in and talk to them
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 5:54am
Not sure how it goes against 2K for resilience but I like some of the new Acrylic car paints (from a vehicle paint wholesaler). They are easy and forgiving to apply and while you still need to wear a good mask they are not supposed to be anywhere near as toxic.
attitudedesignz,
Aug 6, 6:01am
You been smoking stuff again!
New acrylic!
sifty,
Aug 6, 7:18am
And this is why I get confused.
gammelvind,
Aug 6, 7:20am
Must be Glas or De beer products, they are euro paints.
gammelvind,
Aug 6, 7:28am
Sifty the easiest and most forgiving paint for you to use would be laquer, Dulon for instance, uses simple thinners, no nasty iso cyanates, and if you stuff up easy to correct. If you mix too much you can just put the left over in a jar and save it for another time. Yes it needs a bit of a buff to get a shine, but that isn't to much of a problem if you are doing the little stuff you talk about, plus most automotive colours are available in it. Price wise it is the most economical outside of enamels.
gunhand,
Aug 6, 7:28am
Well for a start don't go near southern paints.Are you on a budget!I can recomend someone who wont sell you 50 time more product than you need as well as sensable quailified advice if your in Innvers. Tell us what you want to achieve and the colour and Ill go from there. Its not hard and you should need only 1 primer and hardner 1 solid colour and hardner and some reducer and if metellic some clear.and only a ltr of each if your doin a bike.
sifty,
Aug 6, 7:38am
Ok , I have a mix of old Hondas and old British bikes, so colours are basic black, plus the likes of fuschia red and cream/off white type of two tone effect. Not overly fussed on correct paint code/exact match, and I have the luxury of several bikes to practise on before tackilng anything expensive. (Can start on a bucket racer that would probably be canary yellow for speed). Also have a mix of steel and glass, an bulk of work will be mudguards/tool boxes etc.
So a mix of colours in smaller amounts would be ideal. I'm in two minds whether to get things painted professionally or give it a go, as I would like to be able to say I did it myself.
Probably ease of use/cleanup would be important too. I am pretty competent with welding etc so can get things in pretty good shape, I was just getting lost in types of paint/primer/clear coat etc and the more I read the more confused I got.
Appreciate any tips for the shed-type guy, can't be just me wondering about this sort of thing.
attitudedesignz,
Aug 6, 7:40am
Why so much! LOL.
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 7:40am
Hey I am no paint expert, that's your job!
Here is what I know, I had the engine bay of my Alfa Spider painted a couple of years ago and it came out great. I asked what they used and they said it was a new acrylic single pot that they were using a lot now.
This was from one of the very best panel beaters in town. (I know almost all of them from my old job).
They were a PPG shop but they could be something different now, not sure what. They will mix it up for me to spray at home too (because I know them well) but its in a plain container.
So, yes. I don't know if "new" means new to them or new to the industry. All I know is that it looks great, its easy to spray and prepare and its apparently pretty easy on your health and the environment.
I see 3M sell an automotive acrylic at supercheap as well which I assume to be a similar product.
Paint experts. feel free to elaborate!
attitudedesignz,
Aug 6, 7:45am
Could deceminate your post for hours, but i won't.
I will say this tho', your first problem is getting ANYTHING painted by a panel beater (cat among pigeons haha)
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 7:45am
Yeah, rip into it yourself sifty, its not that hard. I get great results and I am a real amateur. What I lack in experience I make up for with time though, its all about the prep and in my case with big panels especially, after spray colour sand/cut/polish.
The real painters will possibly shoot me for saying this but perhaps compare the price with the 3M acrylic from supercheap on the 25% off. It comes in most of the basic colours you want. I would expect stock is rotated fairly often but take care in case its not.
sifty,
Aug 6, 7:46am
Cheers all, good hearing the options (amongst the normal cat-fights).
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 7:48am
Feel free, happy to be a noob on this project. This guy is about the only one in town that I would trust to paint my stuff, it worked out too that I was pulling my engine out next door at a mates workshop, hence not painting it myself. Anyhow, this guy does know what he is doing. He is more paint than panel and gets some seriously expensive classics to paint as well. I know what you are saying though. I have worked in some absolute dives of panel beaters and seen some scarywork while going about my trade.
It certainly is an experience being a fly on the wall, especially when they don't realise you are a bit automotively savy.
attitudedesignz,
Aug 6, 7:50am
sifty, DO NOT even think 'bout ANY paint product from the likes of supercheap or ripco.
My best advice would be to get all ya bits together and make the trip toGore mate, there's a "gun" painter there who seems to know what he's doing. Dear say type of currency would be flexible too.
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 7:50am
Just remember if it comes down to it, take the painters word over mine. When you want to buy a VW it will be another matter entirely!
I am just doing what you want to do, nothing to say I am going about it the best way possible. Although I am super pleased with the results I have been getting.
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 7:52am
Actually. I wonder if Gores number one gun would be prepared to do some parts but at the same time teach you so you can try it yourself next time! You can only ask.
thejazzpianoma,
Aug 6, 7:52am
Why not! Its a 3M product, I didn't think they sold rubbish! (Feel free to correct me here, genuine question I want to know!)
sifty,
Aug 6, 7:54am
I was going to try the 3m type stuff on the bucket, to see how it went. But was wondering if there were better optins, hence the post.
gunhand,
Aug 6, 7:54am
Theres many ways of skinning this cat thats for sure. Sounds like most of your coolurs are solids so you wont need clear at this stage.I would recommendmetalux 2k or metalux CV 2k. The CV 2k is comercial vehicle paint and way cheaper than other 2ks but a very good product none the less as it has to put up with the riggors of being on a truck. As for primer, you can get a metalux 3k primer that is an etch, primer and good rust preventer all in one. It sands abit different but if you want the best its the way to go. And its non Iso cynate as well. Drys quick and no reducer needed.The top coats are a mix ratio of 2 to 1 or 3 to 1 depending on the one you choose and about 10% reducer.You get mixing sticks with all the ratios so that parts not hard. The primer is not cheap but you could go with roberlo product and its about $120 for a 5 ltr kit and is very nice to use and prob all you really need. If you want the best of the best go with spies hecker products but it will cost. And I only mention these products as there all through one shop down there. You can get others as well of course but as i use thee day to day and deal with the supplier I know you wont get shafted. You should see the crap people get sold elsewhere. Confused yet!
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