"However, are you saying that diesel owners should add some 2-stroke oil whenever they fill up their tanks, or should do that every now and then! Doesn't this affect other parts of the engine! How about cars without a c-pdf!"
any body heard of this idea and is any body doing it! and yo what tupe ofvehicle / results please
mugenb20b,
Jul 19, 7:35pm
I used to on my old non common rail diesels. Maybe it was psychological, but I got the impression that the engines ran a litlle bit quieter and smoother. Later on, I used Morey's additive.
zephyrheaven,
Jul 20, 4:26am
The acceleration piston sleeve in my Landcruiser pump had worn itself to death, I now run as above as recommended by forums in the know with older (90's) 'Yotas
mrfxit,
Jul 20, 4:03pm
quote=hornnett] That and diesel is an oil in the first place. As per normal, enough off the mark to be WRONG in so many ways. Pedantically correct but Petrol is also an "oil" in that respect Have you ever tried to use any other type of "oil" to clean engine parts skin1235 wrote:
not sure where you're at there hornnett, yep diesel is a light condensate but it is not a very good lubricant, recently they either removed some aromatics or added some, and the result was supposedly a fuel that was harsher on the older seal compounds that were used,a squirt of 2 stoke or redex assists with lube for the seals and the old piston pumps[/quote] It's very much the same situation as we had when petrol went totally unleaded Now that most effected vehicles have either died or been recond, the problem has been minimised
splinter67,
Jul 20, 4:33pm
hornnett go back to politics some of us are talking cars here we dont need your argumentative crap here
splinter67,
Jul 20, 4:39pm
If you are going to stay talk sense not the crap you where talking last night
splinter67,
Jul 20, 4:48pm
Im not trying to put you down (I cant get you in my rifle sights) I get sick of reading your bs on subjects you know nothing about
splinter67,
Jul 20, 7:54pm
Wrong diesel is a derivative of oilits not an oil it is a fuel now go away like a good little troll and no you don't fit in here trademe is for traders and as you have a zero next to your name well I'm sure even someone with your level of intellect can work it out
thejazzpianoma,
Jul 20, 8:05pm
Not really true anymore as far as I am aware. Marsden point has been upgraded a couple of times in recent years to produce very low sulpher diesel.
That said running an additive or 2 stroke is an excellent idea in diesels especially older ones.
Just remember you don't need to run anywhere near as high a concentration of 2 Stroke oil per litre of diesel as you would for a 2 stroke petrol engine.
thejazzpianoma,
Jul 20, 8:11pm
Have done it and yes there is not much point in not putting it in every tank as its not a cumulative lubricant like lead.
Tests tend to show that 2 stroke is similar to some of the cheaper additives protection wise. The reason people use it over a dedicated additive is price. Its been a few years since I have done it so I am scratching my head to remember the dilution I used to run. Also, not all 2 stroke oil is suitable for pre-mix situations (check the bottle) and IMO it would make sense to heed that recommendation by going with something that is pre-mix suitable.
Also. while on the subject. EGR valves are the other issue with diesels. At minimum you should clean yours and its ducting regularly, blocking or partially blocking it off with a blanking plate can be a good idea too, although that depends a bit on the engine and how many km's its done.
aliru,
Jul 20, 8:40pm
at around $16 a litre at my local BP it works out to be expensive. perhaps it would be cheaper by 4litres. dont now how it compares to theother additives youy can get.
thejazzpianoma,
Jul 20, 9:06pm
Yes, the idea is to buy it in large containers. You would be looking around $8a litre, less on a good special.
You are correct though, there are actual diesel additives that will cost you even less than that (on a per dose basis when comparing recommended dose to $8 a litre 2 Stroke at 200:1)
intrade,
Jul 21, 2:15pm
probably better to use chemtech , winns -edt or flashlube or there likes products if you got a commonrail diesel for older ones you could add 2 stroke oil. Diese especially newzealand crap has almost no lubrication. the problem is worldwide and its called "ulsd problems" some manufacturer have already made ulsd save diesel injector noozles but unless you got a unitinjected diesel then you would need a whole ulsd save pump . so its more easy to add lube plus the ulsd diesel also attacks rubbers like your primer bleed pump rubber on your fuel-filter.
intrade,
Jul 21, 2:21pm
a. yea sounds like you should have listene to me huh i post about this since years.and i know it i seen plenty pumps with premature wear
same use it on my fiat diesel merc and my tdi supersheep auto have it on special at times usually pay 34$ on special . i must add chemtech does not claim to prevent seal shrinking winns-edt does and flashlube also. But if a seal is so degraded that it literelly brakes to crumbles from ulsd then it will be to late for flashlube to swell it back up . 26.50 on special at supersheeps mailer right now dont know when it ends not looked at its date ends today so better get it now .
kaspas,
Jul 21, 3:14pm
jazz i want to remove egr on my nissan mistral, easy enough to do!
intrade,
Jul 21, 4:10pm
egr need blocking off on new diesel you have to delete it on the ecu also or the check engine light will be glowing in most cases. You need to fully remove the intake and clean it to do a propper job then blank it off or fit a plate so the egr works but no exhaust gas can pass with a peace of car penal tin. . Alternatively you fully remove and modify the google "egr-delete kit". ps oil is oil any diesel runs on any oil. the problem is mixing wrong oils like you are hinting at in post #43 . For example you should not mix diesel with vegetable oil and add clean waste mineral oil to that, that makes a gue like honey in the system to name 1 no-no.
intrade,
Jul 21, 4:15pm
find the egr valve and unplug and block the vaccume hose and go for a drive as that is disabeling the valve . cleaning and removal is not easy on td27 nissan you would do all this when you fit new seals to the pump or you find the intake might be to blocked or the egr shutter valve is not shut fully.
msigg,
Jul 21, 11:53pm
I find that with the erg valve operating on my nissan safari, i think it pulls slightly better mid range.It was designed to be there in the first place.
intrade,
Jul 22, 10:33am
um its called egr valve and it suposed to be shut midrange. so there would be no difference for that load wheter it was on the vehicle or in the rubish. Its open only on light load and if you keep the egr then you still have to clean the intake and egr valve as that is part of diesel maintainace that no one wants to do its why the egr valves crap them selfs and then soon after the engines crap out later on also with bore.wear and overheating cracked heads. for example egr = exhaust-gas recirculation
something like that you got to take off the intake anyhow to clean it out when you fully remove the egr. But try just to disconnect the vaccume and block the vaccume hose as first action that usually is done in 2 minutes on most diesel. some throw the cel or mill light on the dash some even play up worse like mazda capella diesel when you disconnect the vaccume
kaspas,
Jul 25, 2:22pm
cool thanks intrade, the other thing i heard is may have to put 3.2 kho capaciter in place of sensor! aparently tricks computer into thinking it still there!, il disconnect it today and just try it .
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