also the car is one nz owner and came with comprehensive service history well looked after this is why i got it
mm12345,
Oct 22, 1:13am
The seller unplugged those connectors - they didn't fall out by themselves - and he probably did it to hide the check engine light. So he was smart enough to know how to do that - which means he probably knows exactly what's wrong, didn't want to fix it (cost probably) so preferred to blatantly rip you off. Take the car back and ask for your money back.If he refuses, sue him through the small claims tribunal - as you have evidence that he has done something to deliberately conceal a fault.There's "not disclosing" a fault (which is ok - as he could claim not to know) but deliberately concealing a known fault is misleading, and voids any assumed contract that you had with him.Doesn't matter if he's a private seller - he still broke the law.
mugenb20b,
Oct 22, 1:20am
What you got is an expired Subaru. Never ever buy an old turbo car and that slot in the bonnet you see! That's where your money's going to end up.
NZTools,
Oct 22, 1:31am
Replace blow off valve for the secondary turbo (drivers side) It's go a leak, which drains the vacuum tank under the passenger side mudguard. once the tank has lost vacuum, there is nothing to operate the boost control solenoid (kicks the second turbo into life) and that trips the code 66. Not expensive to fix either.
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 2:21am
x1
Those two plugs are meant to be disconnected. They are the plugs to get the diagnostic trouble codes out of the computer. When they are both connected the motor goes through a diagnostic process that makes things cycle on and off, which is probably what the noises and action is.
The original poster needs to have a read up and get the trouble codes out and write them down. Then they need to clear the codes, which is by connecting both plugs and going through a particular drive cycle. Then they need to disconnect the plugs and go for a drive. After the drive, they should extract the trouble codes again, and make sure they are the same as the original lot of codes. The old/first set of codes could be old historic codes or codes set by someone messing around under the bonnet.
Code 66is a tricky one and it does relate to the turbo control, what the other poster here says may and may not be correct. Careful diagnosis will save a lot of money and time.
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 2:27am
Method using Check Engine Lamp Read memory (1) Connect the read memory connector (black, 1 pole) with ignition switch OFF. (2) Ignition switch turned ON (engine stopped) (3) Check if the check engine lamp blinks. (4) Inspection The lamp does not turn on. .Check an abnormality of the check lamp. The lamp blinks (without display of DIAG code) .No display of DIAG code in the past ! Perform D check and confirm the current failure. The lamp blinks (with display of DIAG code) .Display of DIAG code experienced in the past ! Perform checking based upon the DIAG code.
D check (1) Engine warming up (2) Ignition switch turned OFF (3) Connection of test mode connector (green 2 poles) (4) Ignition switch ON (Engine stops) (5) Check engine lamp turning ON Confirm that the check engine lamp turns ON. (6) Inspection of the fuel pump Confirm that functioning noise of the fuel pump can be heard for 2 seconds after IG SW ON. You can perform this check up from the pulses by touching the fuel hose in the engine room. If it is NG, check the fuel pump circuit. (7) Inspection of solenoid valve Confirm that functioning noise of canister purge solenoid (clicking noise) can be heard. If it is NG, check the solenoid valve circuit line. (8) Inspection of radiator fanConfirm that the radiator fan functions intermittently. If it is NG, check the radiator fan line circuit. (9) Signal input to throttle sensor Fully depress the accelerator pedal slowly, and then release it. (10)Starting the engine
(11)Vehicle speed sensor signal input Run your vehicle at the speed of 10 km/h. (12)O2 sensor signal input Activate O2 sensor by keeping the engine revolution between 2,000 ~ 3,000 rpm for more than 1 minute. (13)Check lighting of Check Engine Lamp. (Normal) . Blinking (Abnormal) . Display of DIAG code In the event that several DIAG codes are displayed, diagnose the failure one by one starting with smaller number. After one repair (check) has been finished, perform D check to see if the DIAG code has disappeared. If other codes are displayed, proceed to the said failure diagnosis.
--- CLEARING CODES ---
Codes will clear only when the faulty system or circuit is repaired. After making the repairs, codes can be cleared by connecting TWO pairs of connectors, the "Self-Diagnostic" connectors, and the "Read Memory" connectors that are usually located right next to the diagnostic connectors. To begin, start with a warmed up engine, turn the engine off, connect both pairs of connectors, then start the engine. This should clear the codes. If this fails to clear the codes, consult an Authorized Subaru Technician.
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 2:42am
thanks mechnificent for the info .im not sure if i have done this right .tho now the check engine light is blinking with both plug unpluged .i got the car froma dealer and was a trade in.ive phoned him he seamed good tho asked to phone back tomorrow. should add no codes came up .so parked it up and ill get someone who is 100% clued up on this stuff
splinter67,
Oct 22, 2:46am
Dont touch it take it back to the dealer and let them fix it you are covered by the cga
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 3:00am
yes ill be doing this. after reading and rereading the add"This Legacy is good, clean and tidy, and obviously a well looked after car. Just the one owner in New Zealand, and he has had it the last 9 years. Comprehensive service history included with the car, check out the photo. Very well maintained! It drives great and the body is good also! The car has Power Steering, Central Locking, Electric Windows, Drivers front SRS airbag, ABS Braking, and sunroof. The car drives great! It shifts gears good and performance is good too. The body on the car is good. A couple of minor stone chips over the front, and the odd small imperfection (car park pin dents etc), but a very tidy example. Inside, its real good. The seats are fine carpets good and dash okay too. Mechanically, it runs and drives real good. It comes freshly serviced with new oil and filter. Car is fitted with alarm immobiliser. Two keys and two remotes. "
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 3:04am
I can tell you the authorised dealers drive technique if you like, which is what that last post of mine was talking about if the old trouble codes do not clear after starting the motor. By the sound of it, it's what you need to do before going any further if you do want to diagnose it accurately yourself.
Seeing as it's a dealer job though best to take it back before they claim you have caused problems.They will take care of it for you.
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 3:09am
it kinda hard i dont want to drive it anywhere dealers in chch im in oamaru and didnt find the problems till half way home
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 3:16am
You need to at least tell the dealer, he may authorise it to be dropped off somewhere more locally. If you tell him that you are too frightened to drive it like it is in case it blows up(it wont), he should send someone around to collect it. If you know there is a fault, and continue to use the car, and damage occurs, the warranty is void in theory. He should be happy to come and look at it and drive it back to his yard himself, or get a mechanic to go look at it. If you say you are not willing to drive it, and he insists that you do, the warranty will not be void if it blows. Just hold out and make him come collect it is an option.
motorboy2011,
Oct 22, 7:09pm
Fail.
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 9:22pm
got this email today Hi Wayne, Further to our conversation this morning, about my offer to remedy the engine noise issue that has arisen in the Subaru Legacy you purchased. I am happy to have the car freighted back to Christchurch and a replacement engine installed at my cost. I will also remedy the secondary turbo, whereby it doesn??
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 9:37pm
That sounds hopeful then Junk_shop.
I've got to say though that the noises will be the car going through it's test routine because the test connectors were connected.
I'd also say that it's almost guaranteed that the turbo will ok and that it is not what caused the problem with the car. The code 66 is saying that the boost control is not working properly. When the boost control is not working properly the computer limits the boost right down and limits the revs. That is why you could not go over four thousand revs. the car is all behaving just as it should under the circumstances. The only problem is that the turbo's boost limits are being exceeded because one of the electrical or vacuum systems that monitor, calculate, and operate the boost control are playing up. It's because the boost control is comprised of these two (electrical and vacuum) systems that it is complicated to diagnose.
Changing the motor, will almost certainly not fix the problem. unless by chance they just happen to reconnect a vacuum hose or wire as they are working on it.
There is a member on here called Zephyr-heaven that is down in Christchurch I think and he is good on subarus. He used to work for subaru and is now in private practice. If you could get him onto the job I'm sure he would have it fixed in a few hours.
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 9:50pm
the engine noise we are talking about is a knock in the bottom end ive only driven the car 500kms
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 9:54pm
Oh, ok, I must have overlooked that being mentioned hehe. That does sound serious.
So leave it all to them then.
Hope it all comes out well for you.
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 9:56pm
im really starting to think im buggered was a $1res auction and what he say is he really dont have to fix.the money for the car hasnt cleared yet .is it a good idea to stop payment till car is fixed!
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 9:57pm
Hmmm. reading back. you hadn't mentioned a knock from the bottom end.
Pheww. I feel better now. Otherwise splinter and mm12345 would have been right on my case.
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 10:01pm
If he is a dealer he has to fix it. You have an undertaking in writing that he will do so as well. That doesn't mean that it's going to be quick, or a good job though, especially if he is now backing out and changing his tune. People like that must be taken with suspicion. I would cancel the payment definetly myself.
Look for another car.
junk_shop,
Oct 22, 10:03pm
its all good i didnt bring it up there was a small tick tho started it up today tick was now a very loud knock
jason18,
Oct 22, 10:15pm
Just let payment go through and keep his email as record if anything goes wrong. If you dont pay him he might use that as a reason why he didnt fix it up.
mechnificent,
Oct 22, 10:25pm
A one dollar reserve car probably sold for less than a good motor job is worth. The payment isn't going to cover it and he has already said he is broke. I'd bail out of the deal myself. And I'm a mechanic !
attitudedesignz,
Oct 22, 10:31pm
Isn't it written somewhere that you have 7 days to, for want of a better word, renege on the deal!
You bought it Saturday and today is Tuesday, e-mail him and tell him you no longer want the car and the deal is off. I can't really see a good outcome from the dealer "fixing" the car, unless you oversee EVERY aspect of EVERYTHING that gets done you only have his word it IS done.
Cynical i know but that's me.
splinter67,
Oct 22, 10:33pm
where dose it say that the dealer is broke so now your clairvoyant didnt the email that the dealer sent say he would fix it
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