That I don't know snoopy - oh and watching the engine run this afternoon - it was clock wise Also - there is more play now in the clutch - about 10 cms before it engages reverse graunched today twice and so does 2nd - 3rd and no I did not ride the clutch or ram it - I did double the clutch as in release and push down again when in neutral - no other noise. crawled under truck had a a good look to take pictures etc and found the new back to front longer bolt on the drive shaft - have picture will clean it and post
jmma,
Nov 10, 3:05am
As a clutch wears, the free gets less, this is opposite, Need to keep a careful eye on this.
jmma,
Nov 10, 3:18am
That bolt needs turning around as the washer is under bolt head and not the nut, as it should be. Hope they are spring washers as they are not nylock nuts. And tiggles, it wont be you that f**** it up, you only drive it. Gearbox will be fine, just keep an eye on that clutch travel
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 3:26am
Thanks jmma that p*** me off too as I asked for Nylock nuts only when replacing any - and they knew this as did the first time around - its on invoice (something a mechanic told me yonks ago - its in my book of things to ask for) Did not see a split to say they were spring washers - will go have another look Checked for fluid leaks for clutch - none I could see today - not sure what else to check
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 3:42am
Tiggles at this point it's analogy time K
The ONLY way to describe that bearing is like an AXE. Built to be used ONE WAY.
Most simple ball race bearings have either 2 thin steel protective casings-or seals. THAT BEARING HAS A HARDENED WEAR FACE. That is because it works against the rotating clutch pressure plate fingers.
Installed correctly-it'll last for years. WRONGLY and the thin steel casing will be destroyed.the ball bearing containing cage will be destroyed on one side-the balls will wear and be smaller-and the centre will be pushed out.
jmma,
Nov 10, 3:43am
Try not to worry to much, will turn your blonde hair to grey (o: The clutch can be adjusted, but I wouldn't go touching anything yet unless really ness. How much use does the truck get per week!
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 3:46am
Now sadly-i'm a realist. The lack of a spring-and the wear which WILL-I M H O be evident on your clutch pressure plate fingers
[As explained-simple to view and photograph] Will cause the slave cyl to *pulse* for want of a better word-and being a wipe seal(one way seal) air will enter the system-cuasing the clutch problems-(Free-play and graunching you describe)
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 3:49am
Please save the pics i posted. The first one PLEASE look at in windows explorer-rotate it 90 degrees and enlarge it. Look at the **LIP* I have posted about-and SEE how it WOULD push the cntre of the bearing out. Don't confuse yourself with heating and welding. Just the old axe-one way is correct. Wrong way and you can see how it has pushed out.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 3:51am
:) thank you snoopy x I sort of had that in my head but thought it was a stupid thought as how dumb do you have to be to put something in back to front - having said that we all have bad days and as sr2 so rightly said "we only have 8 fingers and 2 thumbs" But why B/S and play stupid games - hiding stuff up from boss maybe Today I just got really p**** off and angry The gears graunching (and yes truck is totally still before I go into or out of reverse - chewing up an automatic by forcing it into drive whilst still going backwards some few decades ago taught me that lesson) and the play in the clutch - just got to me. then to find odd ball things like bolts the wrong way around - that is sloppy - but proof they don't take all due care.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 3:56am
So to remedy (and I am NOT going back to P&S) they had their chance And yes I am a realist - broken stuff is just that - fix or replace it - don't band aid it Pull apart photograph and redo ! I can't risk no clutch along the desert road - supposed to go to Taihape next week, Mainsfield not long after. will open picture again in explorer - am using chrome at the minute :)
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 3:57am
Incedentaly on a heavier truck that bolt in the driveshaft would fail a C. O .F. It's ungraded-not high tensile(The 8.8 is a grading) The point here is they undid 4 bolts-lost one. And their vise grip marks are CLEAR on the slave cyl pushrod-as is their clutch adjustment. O H and as to why they have 3 spring washers against the nuts. And one against the bolt head-and 3 bolts one length-one way around-and one the opposite way!
**Damn Apprentices-Foreman's get sick of makin em redo their work**
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:03am
Get nationwide to take pics and make the call. If the clutch supplier can be found quick enough it'll help. If ya could fang a spring on it and if ya ever bled a clutch! [Simple and easy to do.] Can supply instructions if ya game-take ya all of ten minutes and ya free play will be gone.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:04am
jmma Yip worn uneven fingers rough road constant gear. no return spring
forkie dropiie ouut!
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:06am
First, would like the free play at clutch fork check, just to put to rest a fear I have.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:07am
Meh ya tink i donna already KNOW that slave is adjuste on to it's arrrsssss
Edited to sorta say-well I MHO i'd suspect given the pictures it'd be close to the bottom of it's bore
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:09am
I was thinking push rod drop out.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:09am
ha I was right - high tensile bolts are usually black - just to chicken shit to say jmma I am more than concerned about the spring wear mark and no spring, the piston is hardly screwed into the fork (I can try and make the picture clearer) and the drive shaft is now sitting 12 mm out of its sleeve thing as for apprentices - they are learning its the foreman's ***** I am after now. to many mistakes - be they simple or not - on truck
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:11am
And if there is any free play there, where did it come from and how do you adjust it out!
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:13am
you too are too quick for me lol :) hmm have bled brakes before - not sure about clutch and where the *** do I get a spring You know Nev can dam well tell me who the supplier of the clutch kit was - said had to come down so thinking Auckland.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:13am
the piston is hardly screwed into the fork
WE KNOW GURL
piston fork rod droppie out. Hence a bleed and a spring. And slave off at nationwide and fork back and PICTURES off pressure plate fingers.
[They may look like the end of the bearing a tad]
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:14am
Pic clear enough, it doesn't screw into the fork, the last nut against the fork has a ball on it so it can swivel when you work the clutch.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:14am
jmma - the rod is about two turns in to the fork - by torch light will make that bit of pic bigger
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:19am
said had to come down so thinking Auckland.
well i did mention a business in Aucks. And well for their sake i hope it wasn't that business
Bleeding clutch=Simple a tube on the nipple going UP and in to a bottle. Undo nipple-check master cyl level. 3 full pumps on clutch down-and back slow-foot off pedal. do up nipple-remove tube and feel clutch-and free play gone.
Spring-Mitre 10 evenJust something you can stretch a bit by hand will do
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:19am
No, what we are saying is it is at full adjustment, some of the pushrod should be sticking through the fork. When you are under there can you just hold the pushrod and see if you can push the fork away from it at all. Just be careful if the fork does pull away that the rod doesn't fall out.,
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.