I have emailed that business snoopy - I don't expect an answer before Monday - even if it is - it is not their fault if their parts have been used / installed incorrectly Spring - can source one tomorrow Bleeding - well can only but give it a go hmm I can push the fork away from rod thing - it would fall if I let go when pushing - that's not good is it.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:29am
Yip and it don't need 2 be fancy 2 work. A pair of side cutters will bite in and open out a coil at the end of the spring But U Roto Fullas And Fulesees juss use da ole baling twine at da enzz aye cuzz!
it don't need 2 be fancy 2 work.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:30am
- it would fall if I let go when pushing - that's not good is it.
And us dumb asses are tellin ya to put a spring on it sit can NOT
mmmkay
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:31am
How much gap between rod and fork when you do that tiggles, just an estimate will do.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:34am
If ya game to bleed it-my advice would be to REMOVE the push rod and wind those nuts back a bit-again if ya game. Just to give it a bit more in to that fork the 2 nuts together will be lock nuts use 2 spanners and work one against the ohter. when unlocked the big nut can come back a bit then the reverse-2 spanners and lock the lock nuts. then lock the big nut against em.
Kapeesh! Still be better with a simple bleed and spring if ya can't.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:35am
well i fix most things with bailing twine, number 8, duct tape or cable ties will get spring and work it out :)
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:36am
Springs all good snoopy, but don;t you think there should be very little free play there with that adjustment wound right out!
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:40am
yup know how lock nuts work - lmao - long story there jmma only pushed it away 4 - 5 mm once end was free - was not sure that I would not drop the rod or if it would fall apart in my hand. Not a lot of pressure behind rod but felt easy enough to pull out if that makes sense the fork would have gone more.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:42am
Non factory pushrod jmma And probably worn and uneven fingers on pressure plate and air in slave cyl. Bleed, Spring and recheck Fork angle against box sorta makes one wonder
(Shudders-if they fanged the OLD PRESSURE Plate in there) Againand well if dis gurl can follow simple instruction right now it'd be push rod out-rubber boot off-fork back-torch and lookee
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:47am
Bleed and spring is a good start, my concern is , should I say it, OK that the release brg is the wrong way round., when you got that fork boot off, I would like to know if there is fireworks in there, you know what I mean!
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:48am
I still think pics will show i am right about the type of carrier that bearing sits on. [If you looked at that pic i also posted another pic of a diferrent type of release bearing carrier tiggles]
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:49am
ok ok - what rubber boot where - the one on the slave or the fork - the one on the fork by the way has a bl@@dy great split in it - in one of the lower creases. If I pull the push rod out then the seal thing will come out! and the fluid run out, then when put back together - have to bleed to get air out YES. They have not replaced the pressure plate they (Nev) said it was ok and only had a blue line on it! On the non factory idea - I am positive the original rod was smooth where it came out of the cylinder (it was shinny and silver in colour)
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:52am
(Nev) said it was ok and only had a blue line on it!
Can i have that in writing Oh Please
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:52am
!Pretty Please!
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:55am
Will ask in written statement to them in such a way its a question - litigation stuff I am good at writing up. Its not on invoice so since they charged me for the bearing would have thought they would charge me for another pressure plate as not their fault!
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:55am
Fork and pushrod both have the same redness about them, like they have been mates for a while.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 4:56am
I'll write it in affidavit no worries - with date and time of phone call conversation (the one good thing about tolls calls they show in your phone bill.)
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 4:57am
Founder, owner and manager of the business which has been trading for 31 Years
And i KNOW what both his and my **opinion** of that pretty blue line is after oh Well suffice to state seeing ENOUGHold pressure plates after 100's of thousands of K's Please get that in writing. Juss play dumb-tell in you were told it should be red.
jmma,
Nov 10, 4:58am
Nah, they were just saving you some money LOL(o:
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:02am
lol snoopy ;p they already think I am dumb so thats not hard lmao,. jmma - could be my bad photography - it was getting on for dusk when under truck for the umpteen time today and I relied on the light from my handy cam. Will look in morning in good light
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:04am
yeah - yeah lol -so they could charge me more for the next **** up that is the fault of the hmm truck.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:06am
Rubber boot is the one on the fork where it goes in to the gearbox Pushrod will come straight out with no drama. Just don't hop in the cab and stand on the clutch pedal with it out-LOL Fork will go back toward the slave and allow you to see in there.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:10am
ok that is pretty simple - can do that, handy cam is very good with zoom lens and light etc so I am looking for a mess - or evidence of heat, rubbing, anything out of place as in does not look right so then how do I put it back together and no I wont jump in the cab and floor the clutch lol
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:18am
Back together is easy hardest thing will be refitting the boot. But show us ya pics first.L O L What we need to see in pics is the **blue line*-Which will be the WIDE area where the reverse installed bearings light steel was destroyed by the hardened steel of the pressure plate fingers and to relieve jmma the front face of the axe-[release bearing)
Oh and what 20,000 kilometres later or NOW the supplier of that clutch kit might like to see how it was installed for their warranty claims file
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