Just make sure you hold pressure inwards on the fork when you slide the boot off.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:23am
right - many pictures - all angles - looking for blue line - should be wide on the fingers of the pressure plate hardest part of back together being getting the boot right ( I always get the fiddly jobs lol) guess a supplier would be more than a bit POff to find his kits being abused - some where there will be an identifiable number I guess. the one on the bearing, going by all the other picture posted by you guys show the part number on the soft face
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:24am
pressure inwards - right so if I stuff that up what happens. have had enough broken fingers over the decades.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:28am
Actualy if you can get a good shot of the release bearing carrier- From the description you gave of the *failure/breakdown* And what i have endeavoured to explain over pages Well that *blue line* added to everything else. And these guys work on trucks! Stagerring
jmma,
Nov 10, 5:28am
You wont stuff up, it will be fine, just not sure how fork is retained so if you just put pressure on it, it will make sure it stays in place, no dramas, just insurance (o:
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:30am
right so if I stuff that up what happens. You end up following instructtion ONE STEP AT A TIME AND TO THE LETTER And gaining faith in 2 things ONE-Your OWNAbilities TWO Your Instructors KNOWLEDGE/EXPERINCE. Time and Patience.
jmma,
Nov 10, 5:31am
Not huge pressure, just enough so it doesn;t move around when you take the boot of, backwards and forwards is fine, just dont want it moving outwards.
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:32am
All jmma is worried about is the inner end/pivot of the fork coming adrift- And advising you of the correct process Again as per #331
jmma,
Nov 10, 5:32am
Sorry boss snoopy, I will leave instructions to you, Then there is no confusion K(o:
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:35am
Hopefully you did turn and enlarge that pic And if ya can use an aze. And well at 12.30 A. M. After a few pages. Understand it's not about welded bits and carriers and every other bit of car/truck release bearing words taht you have heard. It IS about WHAT THAT **Blue Line** means to PEOPLE WITH YEARS OF EXPERIENCE
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:36am
lol - I was just thinking snoopy - a book of pictures of what not to do because. lol and yes they apparently do work on trucks (maybe we should add the word Tonka.!) have no idea what is what in there so will take pictures of everything I can see at every angle I can get - the diagrams I follow so will do best can - hmm should there be any oil, grease or stuff in there and what harm can i do :) Jmma - as long as can't break fingers - that hurts and I say more than fluffy ducks then !
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:36am
Nope i'm just explaining WHY in depth. 2 heads are better than 1 mate
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:39am
yup did turn and enlarge picture and laughed at words on paper - scrunch your eyes up and read quick - tis funny I can follow instructions - I just need to know what goes wrong so can avoid if makes sense will not be human before ten so this will not happen until nearer noon I get it - look for the blue line - anything else is just a bonus.
jmma,
Nov 10, 5:42am
OK snoopy No oil etc or broken fingers tiggles, dont put it back together till we seen pictures, will be around most of the day tomorrow, oopps today. Print this thread off, you never know around here. Right, coffee and bed for me, catch up later (o;
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:44am
Only 2 problems i would foresee apart from as jmma pointed out don't try and pull the fork out of the box. Would be getting the boot outer edges back in-it's easier to start at the top when refitting and tease the bottom in with a screwdriver. And when refitting the push rod in to the slave if! the slave has crept out a bit that's no biggie (After all you will be adjusting the push rod back about 5 to 8 mill or so) That is the point where you have your 10 mill ring spanner on the bleeder nipple and your hose and bottle and simply undo the bleeder toa llow you to push the slave back easier. Then you have your spring ready to cable tie-wire or wateva. and bleed by 3 to pumps on the pedal. [Print out relative posts -K]
No Biggie
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:49am
did turn and enlarge picture and laughed at words on paper
Now you can SEE what i was trying to say
Mechaincs these days generaly have it easy release bearings are usualy pre-installed on the carrier as like some of the other pics in this thread.
Also you can see why the bearing cage is pushed out one way-and the bearing is in 2 pieces. And WHY the B.S you have been fed doesn't wash with a few posters in here.
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:51am
have put boots on in various places before - boys and toys with no patience - usually by car front wheels, have no intention of moving that fork any more than absolutely necessary - if I break something I have to get it fixed and that money tree needs water. so before start have all tools and equipment ready to bleed the clutch, cloth for gunk (there is always gunk) new spring and laptop under truck with me ;p
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 5:59am
Understand now snoopy - sori it took so long - my logical brain still does not accept that in this day and age a person can be so screwed over - and stay in business. moons ago I spent hours in the garage when the 'boys' rebuilt their rods, V8's and what knots. I spent many hours as a "grease monkey" doing all the fiddle jobs but can't in all honesty say what i was doing - I did learn NOT to hold the screw driver in the spark plug ports when they turned the engine over - ***** testing hmmm. I also developed my hate of jump staring vehicles (always got zapped) Point - i did as asked / told and never questioned it but god dam it I knew about if it was wrong - not in a bad way as such but stuff was done right and ownership of stuff ups was held
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 5:59am
Ya cannae do any worse than has already been done I M H O Gunk! meh-when ya gotzz a hose on da bleeder and itzzgoing up vertical so air rises and cannae get back doon. Y a common sense telly ya tae pinch da ose b4 ya weemove it. either that or a few drinkzz of brakeen fluid. Dinnae Panic Capt Manerring
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 6:00am
Time for bed :) next adventure in a few hours
tiggles2,
Nov 10, 6:04am
Gunk from the grease and dirt from road travel lol - clutch fluid no worries ;) clean up any spills - guess like bleeding brakes need clean-ish hands to operate camera ;p
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 6:05am
Understand now snoopy - sori it took so long -
You have had people inspect that bearing. And many diferring opinions. However tis a pity the *Blue Line* on the pressure plate was not mentioned earlier. Ya see steel getzz red at (x) temp-blue at (x) temp
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 6:06am
Dave seemer or robbie ward ring a bell! re #343
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 7:04am
It's late i know but What the hell
Step 1) remove boot-slide boot to pushrod.
Step2) Place ring end of 10 mill ring spanner on bleeder(silver thang wiff nipple and 10 mill- hex)
Align spanner with pushrod.
place suggested about 3 foot hose of correct diameter on nipple ensuring good sealing fit. Grab old empty coke bottle and insert other end of hose in bottle. Crack open bleeder- reason for alignining spanner is to allow another spanner to be linked on if bleeder is tight-be aware tightbleedercan loosen virtualy instantly make sure fingers have brakes and a clear area. Insert big ass screwdriver-pry bar /crowbar in to gearbox area in front of fork and lever fork backwards effectivley shortening pushrod. Do up bleeder. remove hose and bottle and spanner. remove bar etc. and gently move fork forward. Pushrod will now be able to be moved clear of fork and removed. Carefully slide boot off fork right hand should be able to hold fork in box while left hand removes boot. Move fork back towards slave cylnder and use light to obtain pictures taken from area of fork where big ass bar/screwdriver was inserted. Relaease bearig carrier will be seen connected to fork. Release bearing will be on the end of carrier.
Pressure plate fingers will be visible. If i'm not around after pics have been posted either jmma or skin may be or sr2 . Re- assembly- gently as in removal refit boot to fork. refit pushrod in to slave-after about 5 to 8 mill adjustment- lengthening inner(threaded end where it enters fork) Re-attatch bleed bottle and hose and spanner. Preferably having bottle higher than slave although not essential Open bleed nipple approx 1'2 turn. Check clutch/brake master cyl(some run same master) and top up if reqd. Give clutch pedal 5full strokes down and up emphasis on slow back up compared to down. Tighten bleed nipple and remove hose. Give clutch pedal 3 more full movements down and up . recheck/top up clutch master cyl Fit return spring. Refit release fork boot. **Feel** clutch pedal start engine and check clutch operation and gearshift functionality-I.E. Is reverse easy to select! Road test. Post back
snoopy221,
Nov 10, 7:16am
Note the pushrod is seriously non genuine and possibly the original was lost. Check pushrod fit in fork and adjust as can,,,, (Appears to be 5/16.3/8 dia rod pushrod and possibly 1/4 hole in fork) Will be clarified when nuts are loosened and end fit in fork seen
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