LN65 2.4 diesel, '87-89 ish, water issue

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skin1235, Nov 24, 4:09am
water is leaking from just under the head on left side front of engine, thought it maybe the gasket behind the thermo housing base, so removed that, but nothing wrong there, is coming from beneath that thermo base, running down the front of the motor - quite freely
anyone know if they have an O-ring under there - appears to be well away from head gasket - but my eyes are getting old - maybe it's a corner rotted off the head gasket- where does the water pass from the block to the head! bypass from pump to heater type thinking!

initial thought it was water pump because water was dripping out the bottom of the cam belt cover - so got a new pump ( from repco - which although they swore it would fit is actually a completely different shape) ripped old pump out without paying a lot of attention to the oil and water stain locations - its an old bush basher and oil and water marks are well under several layers of dirt and dust

skin1235, Nov 24, 4:11am
its entering the timing belt cover area about 50mm above the top of the water pump, quite a big gap in that region, air gun from the front directly into that area causes water to bubble in thermo housing

intrade, Nov 24, 4:18am
well you probably have a hole rotted in the aluminium housing . my one had that also removed the housing and got it welded and it still runs . i assume you got the rocker roller head non turbo diesel engine!

intrade, Nov 24, 4:19am
water pump for this is 48 bux , dont even bother with rip-co

intrade, Nov 24, 4:25am
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2-2L-2-4L-Engine-Timing-Cover-82-87-Toyota-Truck-Pickup-SOHC-Diesel-/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/$T2eC16dHJGwE9n)yUsLgBQSjlwBvzw~~60_3.JPG
my one had a hole rotted where the pipe comes out bottom left on that pic
toyota had a new cover last one for 180$ they wanted . i got a new pipe welded on for 80$

intrade, Nov 24, 4:27am
2.2 and 2.4 non turbo toyota cant be killed its the one clarkson on topgear abused.rocker roller heads the 88 onwards on crack heads , this one just rotts out the alloy housing lol

skin1235, Nov 24, 4:33am
that rusty bolt is to hold the cam cover back plate to the engine, there is a 6mm gap between the head and that cover and what appears to be about a 4mm gap going back under the head, but cannot see how far it goes back
all water in that region is inside cast iron, no ally until it exits the engine via thermo housing

skin1235, Nov 24, 4:34am
have you had a head off them intrade!, how far does the head come forward of the block, and how close does water come to edge of the gasket ( side or front, or in the corner!)

intrade, Nov 24, 4:36am
i can see the hole strip it down and get a new gasket for the housing from toyota maybe they even still got the last housing for 180$ . otherwisealluminium welder, You also need the crank and oil seals do it all and do it once then it be going for the next 20 years just with oil changes . injector pump nees to come off also. but its easy and clearly marked.dont take the head off there is no need for that i never did and it runs since 2006 when i welded the housing on my 2.2 L that i got out of a ln65 ute and fitted it on my ln130
my enginewas 15 years on a kumara farm in dargaville till the ute broke its chassy in half . So i rescued the engine out of it. good knows what milage its got lol but it runs . only problem its got it nukes a glowplug every now and then due to probably not so mint injectors .

skin1235, Nov 24, 4:48am
there is no apparent hole there intrade, that plate held y the bolt is nearly 6 mm from the engine block, there is no water behind just an open gap that runs to the top of the engine, the metal behind the plate that the rusty bolt goes into is the engine block, is about 15mm below the head gasket
the pic you posted is an ally plate!, and does not resemble anything under the bonnet or behind any covers here, where is the crank seal in your pic!

intrade, Nov 24, 4:50am
http://oi48.tinypic.com/1jkvmo.jpg
below the small hose clamp you see the big hose and slight jellow . thats where a new pipe was welded on . the old one had a hole of a thumb in the housing

intrade, Nov 24, 4:53am
the immage of the housing is upside down . you have to remove the radiator and harmonic balancer to get the cambelt off then you replace the crank seal while your at it and all others so you dont have to do things twice. the picture is your housing if you got the same engine as my one.

intrade, Nov 24, 4:57am
you got a hole in the alloy housing of the channel that goes to the waterpumpi can see the hole on your picture and there is more alloy corrosion to the left but no hole there.

skin1235, Nov 24, 5:03am
yep, I've found it, on the inside top if the bottom hose gallery, can slide an allen key into that area and it drops into a large hole
bugga, looks like I need a new plate or repair the old one
another LN65 to park under the trees for a while
you'll hate this bit - will have to use the misti until I can find the its I need

intrade, Nov 24, 5:05am
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-2L-2-4L-Engine-Timing-Cover-82-87-Toyota-Truck-Pickup-SOHC-Diesel-/160879562737
the housing was photograft both sides i posted the backside i think first

intrade, Nov 24, 5:07am
just ring toyota and see if they still got the housing as i never purchased it back then but who knows probably some more people with this problem.

intrade, Nov 24, 5:18am
ps for anyone reading this the 88 onwards engine wont be fixable like this. they all crack the heads as soon as the slightest corrosion occures in the cooling system. only this old till 1987 engine is indistructable and only the non turbo versions.

skin1235, Nov 24, 5:31am
will give it a good scrape down and get it dry, can see it will get a silicon repair until after xmas - it has never run a working rad cap for the last 2 years so there is no pressure build up at any time in the system
will apply the silicon and leave it a few days to cure, try it for leaks on Tuesday

skin1235, Nov 24, 5:33am
the whole vehicle cost me $200 6 years ago, has had nothing apart from a few oil changes and a set of front pads since then - it owes me nothing and if it stops it will become retired - like me

been some strange places, once spent 2 1/2 months parked 20 ft below the track on a crazy angle with a bike on her back ( tied to a tree to stop her slipping down and over the bluff) until I could get through the mud with a crawler to pull her back onto the track, started first pop once back on the track and drove her home - only damage was the bike had a flat battery

intrade, Nov 24, 5:36am
my one had boog in the hole lol when i got it.

skin1235, Nov 24, 5:40am
thought about that, but wondered if the constant heat expansion and contraction may cause it to still seep through - can do some amazing things with bog when needed, and it doesn't often get cut out and repaired properly once the urgency is past

skin1235, Nov 24, 5:45am
lol, this is the one that managed to drive a stick through the oil filter 20 minutes from the end of the road up a track
didn';t know until the oil light came on - found another stick and jammed it into the hole in the filter, filled it with water - had no oil with me - and drove it 52 km home, had to stop twice to refill with water as it steamed down below the oil pickup
didn't rattle all that much - a new filter, and new oil next day showed no sludgeor greying in the next week so just kept on running it till next filter due

mrfxit, Nov 24, 6:55pm
Oh heck I feel Soooo left out like I am missing something like . some of that moss on the engine ;-)

Waterblaster Steve . waterblaster .
BUT then again, might uncover something you DON'T want to see ;-)

mrfxit, Nov 24, 6:57pm
LOL, that must have been a whole lot of fun climbing out of the cab & back up to the track

mrfxit, Nov 24, 7:00pm
HEY Itrade. mines an 88 with roller rocker head, I think you mean 89 onwards with bucket shim tappets (tin tappet cover)