Back Brake drum locking up! any tips?

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intrade, Jan 1, 7:59am
post a pic ofwhat you done what edgedidyou cut !
you gotto cut both sidesfor the 2 shoes all the way on the half moon shape 45°

lookoutas, Jan 1, 8:46am
Mine was doing it with old shoes in place. It hadn't been complied so I couldn't fit new shoes until afterwards.
Hadn't been driven in a while, so they just needed time/use to bed in again. Would imagine the same would happen after fitting new shoes - particularly if the drums haven't been skimmed out.

macman26, Jan 1, 9:38am
Is the adjuster staying correctly adjusted! Does the brake stay locked or unlocks when you release the brake pedal. I have had a flex brake line that only allowed the fluid one direction. I've also had stretched springs caused the automatic adjuster to tighten. But I seen you have that covered.

extrayda, Jan 1, 10:10am
Have you checked that you haven't somehow caused the issue when you replaced the parking brake cables!Did you adjust the parking brake after that (I would assume it may need backing off a bit)!
Would probably cause both rears to become tight though.
Are you talking completely locking up, or just becoming stiff to turn!

supernova2, Jan 1, 11:34am
A closeup pic of both sides might help.

terry77.ta, Jan 1, 8:24pm
ive checked the adjuster after driving and it seems to stay the same & evrything seems to return to right position, ive tryed to back park brake off more & tighten more, only the drivers wheel locks up completly & as for driving it for a while, ive been driving it for near a year so figure the shoes have worn in enuff but will still try champhering them 2day. Cheers

intrade, Jan 1, 10:36pm
like i said get snoopyto have a look he knowswhat he is doing .

lookoutas, Jan 2, 4:03am
But hang on - you said you'd fitted new shoes, springs and drums, along with cables. And now it seems that all this except for the cables was done a year ago.
If all you've done is fit the cables and now it's locking, then something must have upset things from there.

supernova2, Jan 2, 4:56am
When you say it locks what do you mean!
1. When applying brakes one wheel locks up and the others don't ; or
2. After applying brakes one wheel remains frozen

kenw1, Jan 2, 5:44am
Are the springs on the correct way, hooks in or hooks out, it can make a difference.

mohaka, Jan 2, 6:00am
Inclined to first check and see if the hand brake cable is releasing properly,check to see if inside diaof brake drumis not slightly out of round(any change if you swap over sides).

lookoutas, Jan 2, 6:17am
Put some Holden disc's on there.

xs1100, Jan 2, 6:20am
get yr drums machined also

terry77.ta, Jan 2, 7:42am
Drums are new, Fitted all the new gear at same time, the hand brake cable is definatly releasing & working as it should, have tryed letting right off & no diffrence, the 1 wheel that locks (LHR) releases after & doznt stay locked or anything, ive now tryed grinding down the shoes as much as i dare in the places that looked like they made the contact & more & it is a little beta as i have to slam on the brakes at speed to make it lock up now. id luv to put some Holden discs on but that would be a lot of hassle as there not a strait bolt on, hoping when $ allow to get a 4 wheel disc big brake kit imported (MuscleCarParts-John-Nelson) meanwhile,intrade, u got snoopys number!

terry77.ta, Jan 2, 7:45am
Hooks & springs right way, have checked with other cars & pics,thanx

snoopy221, Jan 2, 7:52am
Sheeshlooks like another old pair of socks getting listed for a buck
won't be the first pair i've bought when someone lists a pair- LOL
(Rules be rules and all)
the 1 wheel that locks (LHR) releases after & doznt stay locked or anything, ive now tryed grinding down the shoes as much as i dare in the places that looked like they made the contact & more & it is a little beta as i have to slam on the brakes at speed to make it lock up now.
Has anyone checked both rear wheel cyls are the same damn bore size!(Or stuffed an old sock in-lol)

intrade, Jan 2, 8:51am
thats your job let us know what itreally wasor make a youtube vid of what you found to be wrong.

terry77.ta, Jan 2, 8:58am
Hey snoopy, that soundz gd idea but i dont have an old sock any more to try, didnt take alot off them ,just where it seemed to be grabing, park brake still works well, zero two seven, for six eight, oo, five o if u wanna drop me a txt, ill get in touch, cheers

mohaka, Jan 2, 12:26pm
All other things be correct then it must the lining- one grabbing on leading edge,depending on design.
http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/drumbrakes.html

lookoutas, Jan 2, 7:54pm
Seeing as you've doctored it about so it's not grabbing unless given death, it's probably good enough to give it a good drive.
Now a brake guy even told me to chuck a bit of powder in there. I then drove from Taumarunui to Tauranga for compliance and the problem was gone by the time I got there. The plan being that if it was still doing it, I would get Dale at Coastline to sort it out.
He had told me it was an inherent problem with Mustangs fitted with a 9" as those diffs were made for trucks and big cars, but when they realised how bullet proof they were, they got chucked into light bummed Mustangs still fitted with the big-arsed drums designed for stopping weight.

Crazy thing was that I wanted to put new bonded shoes in there, but knew they would get rejected as not original. Then the inspector said they needed replacing coz there wasn't sufficient meat from the rivet heads, so Dale then fitted Repco shoes, signed them off, and it was all sweet. But I knew that if I'd done that before compliance, all hell could have torn loose.
There's some stupid rules about.
The first thing I did on returning home was to get rid of the rattily front brakes that passed compliance, and put some better ones on with new pads.

There's Kiwi kits available to fit XF discs to a 9" and it's not a big job to do without a kit. So I just thought someone out there in GM land might have done similar with Holden to Chev

terry77.ta, Jan 2, 8:45pm
yeh, went for 50km drive yesterday & seems alot better this morn, just hoping when i go for retest it behaves. tryed looking for a EZ back disc conversion & Commodore set ups seem to be the go, have to get some cables made up but otherwise seems to be a bolt in option, like ive said, im saving to get a decent kit for front & rear so will upgrade at sum stage 4sure.
Thanx for all the sugestions, appriciate the help.

lookoutas, Jan 3, 4:25am
If you've still got 14" wheels on, those super-duper brakes won't fit inside the wheels.

jfp1, Jan 3, 4:33am
Has it got a brake hose for each side or just a single hose going to a pipe running across the diff. I have had problems mainly with earlier Corvettes with rear brake hoses being partially blocked inside. Fluid under pressure from the master cylinder can go through but the no pressure return will not flow back. Mostly happens after people use clamps on the hoses to stop fluid loss while working on the brakes.

lookoutas, Jan 3, 4:39am
It's already locked up long before that happens.

Bloody scary when it happens. Dale at Coastline told me he did an unintentional 360 in a Mach1 he owned years ago, when he realised a road he wanted to turn into came up a bit quick, and hitting the picks a bit hard was the wrong thing to do.