Chainsaw problem

Husqvarna 50 saw. I got it for very near nothing as is not going. No compression, I put in a new ring and deglazed the bore then it wouldn't start. Checked spark which is ok, Got fuel, then checked it hadn't stripped the flywheel key. (all good). Still no go and I'm getting just a tad frustrated. Does any one have any other suggestions? If so I'd love to hear from you. TIA.

Did you put the ring in properly (the gap to the wee 'peg' in the ring groove)?
Deglaze? Is it not a chromed bore then?
Crank seals can dry out if motor not been running for some time.

If you have compression and spark at the right time all that's left is fuel. Pour some in neat, or give it a tiny squirt of engine start. If it starts then dies its the carb. If the saw has been sitting idle for years the carb will be gunged up with varnish and will need to be stripped down and the jets cleaned out cleaned before it will work again.

yes as above, spray engine start in the air cleaner and give it a whirl.

By deglaze I mean I gave it a light scuff with a bit of 240 grit. Yes ring ends at the peg in piston. Easy start might be the next thing, Tried neat petrol in throat of carb with no success. Fuel must be getting to plug as it wet when I remove it.

Does it pop if you put a cap of fuel down the spark plug hole ?.

My recall is 50/51 huskies run 2 rings-and don't have a flywheel key-as such-it is part of the flywheel itself.
re spark-they can and do drop coils. how good is good?

Make sure it isn't flooded, as a flooded chainsaw is easy to get, and will NEVER start. If plug is wet I'd leave it out and pull it over for a while, maybe even quickly whip muffler off and dry the cylinder out.
New ring, but does it have solid compression? 2 strokes need good comp to start.
Why did it die in the first place? if it was due to bad seals/air leaks this will have to be rectified first.
Maybe another plug too, just in case?
I agree about the carb, may be flooding the saw due to varnishing, be good to replace fuel line and tank filter as well.

Try it without the muffler (o:

Could always drop a bit of straight 2 stroke oil in the cylinder, that works as a temporary compression increase, if nothing else works? How scored was cylinder?

clean the mason bee out of the exhaust

A friend shoewed me how to get one going.
1. If your fuel/oil mix is out, forget it. It has to be 100% correct and new fuel.
2. New sparkplug. Yes, once you have it going and hot, you can put it back in.
3. Remove chain and bar.
4. Close idleing screw.
5. Shake the thing like a its a polaroid. Upside down, sideways, back and forward, sideways, forward and back, downside up, and again.
6. Put your earmuffs on.
7. With the trigger squeased, pullstart the I3itc8. It should start after a few pulls.
8. Get it going at full revs, let the thing scream its guts out.Get it nice and hot.
9. Adjust the 'top speed' screw so it backs the full revs off a tiny amount.
I said a 'tiny' amount.
10. Now let the revs drop to almost idle, open the idle screw till it starts to control the revs. Let go of the throttle, it should keep going now, too fast but thats good.
11. Back the idle screw off till its idleing right, maybe a tiny bit fast.
12. Now open the throttle full blast again, adjust the top revs so its drops the revs back a tiny amount.
13. Goto #11 and do that again. Do #11 - #12 several times untill its running right.
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You are closing off any fuel from getting to the engine thru the idle jet, then setting the top speed so it goes.
Then setting the idle jet so it near idles, doing that upsets the full speed control.
So you have to re adjust the top speed again, which upsets the idle mix.
So you reset that idle mix, which upsets the full speed control. which upsets the top speed.
So you reset that, which upsets the idle.
So you reset the idle.
By now, its running right.

And now its running right, at the correct fuel/oil mix.
Which is important. Muck around with the fuel/oil mix at all and its not going to run right.
Which means that to get the fuel/oil mix right, you allmost need scientific graduated flasks. If its says'40 to1'. You better make sure its new petrol, the same oil, and its '40 to 1'
Not '41 to 1'. Or '39 to1'. But a ratio of '40 to 1' .

Thats 'Fourty parts New Petrol to One part Oil'.

Oh, clean the oil filter like they say in the book.
And, don't lend the damn thing to anyone.

Or you can use the KISS system.
Keep It Simple Stupid

Remove the exhaust outlet and clean it.

It will run with the exhaust outlet removed but will be a little loud.

Well my husky likes plenty of choke & priming as well even when its started needs half choke for minute or so other wise it dies as soon as to try to cut Have you had compression checked with a gauge . & it is fussy about the mix I use a 50cc syringe to measure the oil & 1 litre milk bottle for fuel then put it in a 5 L can & shake it all about