Vehicle was running fine but developed a problem of not starting after say half an hour. Assumed diesel filter needed replacing. Did this & seemed to run much better. So what happens when I drive for half an hour and stop, motor is starved for fuel and won't go. Yet next morning runs fine until problem recurs. I suspect possible fault with fuel temperature sensor or fuel return sensor. If anybody could possibly suggest anything else regarding diagnosis or remedy I would be most grateful.
intrade,
Aug 9, 11:40pm
so it starts just fine from cold in morning
also can you post engine code?
your comment makes not much sense old diesel dont have a fuel return sensor nor a fuel return pressure regulator or anything like that. that stuff is on commonrail diesel and a 1994 is guaranteed not a commonrail D4d engine
franc123,
Aug 9, 11:43pm
Next time it does it remove the fuel filler cap and see if that changes how was it starts, may be a blocked tank breather. If you can hear air being sucked in when the cap is removed that will confirm it.
mssteptoe,
Aug 10, 12:43am
Engine No. 1KZ - TE. 2982cc. (SSR-X 3.0) Model no. Y-KZN 130W-GKMQT Also wondering if and where interior fuse compartment located? When the motor won't start & I pump the primer on top of the fuel filter, there's no fuel appearing when I attempt to bleed the injectors. Wondering if some type of sensor or solenoid is faulty? I have removed fuel filler cap, to no avail. Have also blown air from fuel filter inlet to fuel tank, I am able to hear air bubbling in tank.
lauzie,
Aug 10, 12:50am
Replace the inline filter that is on the return line from the engine tto the tank it is near the tank.I had something similar happen to mine,
rctr,
Aug 10, 1:57am
Stop solinoid on pump falling over or loosing power?
intrade,
Aug 10, 2:08am
yes possible i would say it is heat related. i would fit a clear hose to the return line of the injectors to the tank and see if you can see bubbles when it runs normal , and then see if you see bubbles when it plays up. My money is on something heat related , with the info you just gave= i am on board of his idea the plunger to cut fuel is in the head of the pump where the pipes come out. you could buy some ice spray and cool the silanoid to see if comes back to live. as that is the only thing stopping fuel to injectors on old pumps like these
tweake,
Aug 10, 2:26am
put clear fuel line on pump outlet. look for bubbles when running.
what can happen is air gets sucked in, typically around the fuel filter or primer, builds up in the filter and finally air locks it and starves the pump.
does the primer pump up hard after its cut out?
intrade,
Aug 10, 2:29am
i want to know does it start with no problem when cold over night? because if it does the air problem moves to the bottom and fuel cut silnaoid on top of the whiteboard of possible culpruits.
shakespeare6,
Aug 10, 2:41am
Dam hated my 1kzte surf. Had the same issue but manly after it had been sitting over night , you had to crank the shit out of it till it fired. Turned out to be an oring or seal on the pump. Wasn't leaking but obviously suckling air some where
budgel,
Aug 10, 3:03am
I had the same issue on a surf, it was as stated above, sucking air into the fuel line.
mssteptoe,
Aug 10, 4:07am
yes primer pump does pump up hard after it's cut out. yes starts with no problem when cold or over night.
Thankyou good people for putting me on right track.
tweake,
Aug 10, 4:44am
the other thing is the ecu, they are well known to blow a couple of caps in them and get all sorts of drive-ability issues. that may explain why it starts when cold.
mrcat1,
Aug 10, 5:29am
Its diesel isn't it? Is it common rail?
luke041,
Aug 10, 10:12pm
tweake wrote: the other thing is the ecu, they are well known to blow a couple of caps in them and get all sorts of drive-ability issues. that may explain why it starts when cold.[/quote
X 2 very common. Time to open the ecu up and have a look. It's in the left hand kick panel.
intrade,
Aug 11, 12:15am
Re* 15 just like mitsubishis huh so much for bullet proof toyota, ah no wait i did keep telling that toyota DIESEL are crap from 1988 onwards since . ummmm almost for ever now. So yea ecu problems cant be ruled out it also relates to cold warm problem- What i would do is do a mesurment on the shutoff silanoid when it stalls if it has power on the valve or not. you can bypass it but you need to be sure its not pulsed on off when bypassing it so best to take a mesurment of voltage on wire of fuel shut when it functions cold , then running and functioning. and then one mesurment when its gone dead to see what voltages you have on the wire. post the reading on here if they dont make sense to you.
intrade,
Aug 11, 12:17am
please read post *4 - thank you.
strobo,
Aug 11, 12:30am
As someone pointed out stop solenoid also check the crank harmonic key-way worn /Crank drive sprocket worn in the key way.Did one last week faulty sol and pump timing out now and then .Took IP out for seals etc./new belt kit /water pump/harmonic +keys + drive sprocket/retime &now running like a swiss clock.Toyota have had a run of soft powder metal sprockets that wear fast or crack. OOps just read post 4!
bwg11,
Aug 11, 12:31am
This is beginning to sound like an echo of the recently departed.
mrcat1,
Aug 11, 12:32am
I have read post #4, now what? From memory they are a simple diesel with a rotary injector pump, there will be a stop solenoid on the injector pump, either the wiring to this has issues and cutting out the engine or its a air in fuel issue with either a blocked air breather in the cap or tank and he has said a blocked filter, more likely is it has the bug and its blocked the filters and in the inlet banjo fitting on the pump the gauze filter is blocked up or rub a fuel line somewhere and its sucking a bit of air.
tweake,
Aug 11, 12:58am
no. its EFI diesel, fly by wire, VE style pump with solenoid controlled fuel injection and timing solenoid. the simple injection was the earlier model and that was 3l (2.8) and 2lt (2.4) engines.
mrcat1,
Aug 11, 1:09am
It is still a mechanical injected engine, they are not even direct injection, the electronics only controls the throttle, not the injection.
tweake,
Aug 11, 2:00am
? the "throttle" is the injection.
the electronics controls length of injection and the system they have can vary flow per cylinder to balance the engine. injection start point is still mech, injector pop off, but timing is ecu controlled.
mrcat1,
Aug 11, 3:43am
So your saying it has common rail injection then?
tweake,
Aug 11, 4:18am
no i said VE style pump but ecu controlled. theres no stop solenoid on them like on the older VE "simple" pumps. fueling is done by injection solenoid on the pump which fires for each injection.
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