1994 Mazda 2l V6 lantis. Wife pulled into a carpark and it just dies suddenly and wouldnt start.
Car turns over freely. no issues with fuel - but no spark.
ooking at the Dizzy and wondering if it is the issue. There are 2 plugs that plug into the dizzy, one has 2 wires, and the other has 5 wires.
No idea what the 5 wires do, but the sall plug seems to provide the constant power input, and when the ignition is on, DOES have constant power.
Is it likely the dizzy has just crapped itself?
Can anyone provide some insight / advice? what to check next etc?
Of course this happens as we were grabbing the last few supplies before heading away. car now at home so I can work on it
intrade,
Dec 25, 1:21am
has it got a timing belt? first thing i be doing is check if the rotor even spinns . next the 5 wires are most likely switch imputs to trigger spark via cam or crank sensor information . Ah yea its called a bypass ignition system no ecu on older vehicles . but yea if you got no clue of what is what then you rule out mechanical faults first.
tigertim20,
Dec 25, 1:33am
timing belt is fine - the rotor does spin.
have read that a crank position sensor can go bad, and that a test is to push start it by getting it over 500 rpm. Long shot ut I live on a hill so going to give that a try.
any other ideas welcome!
intrade,
Dec 25, 1:35am
http://chevythunder.com/HEI%20Module%20BYPASS%20%20MODE.bmp here is your 5 wires and your other plug it dont need to be 5 volt toyota have i think 7 volt reference voltage it can be anything . understanding and testing it correctly is another story ,
tigertim20,
Dec 25, 1:39am
no go on the push start.
So it ooks like it might be the dizzy itself as we appear to have power up to the point power goes into it - but nothing comes out
tigertim20,
Dec 25, 1:41am
intrade in that diagram, should the trigger signal wire have constant power? what should I look for to test that wire?
the 12v+ wire is providing constant power
intrade,
Dec 25, 1:42am
when you crank it does your rpm nedele on dash move or not? this is a test as most but not all use the crank angle sensor for rpm on dash cluster. if it dont moves than the crank sensor moves closer to be suspected then when it moves , but wont be 100% conclusive as it depends on designe usa ford are all like that no needle moves bad crank or crank circuit as its not always a component fault.
tigertim20,
Dec 25, 1:45am
tach does not move when turning over
intrade,
Dec 25, 1:49am
you cant test things unless you have a oscilloscope multimeter mesures difference in potential so the figures from crank would be all over the place on a multimeter 3 wire on crank sensor is hall effect 2 wire is magneto resistance it can be tested with a multimeter but you need to know more then with a scope . a scope plots you the voltage on screen not just taking a sample every 1 to 2 secound and mesures the difference between the samples multimeter do this and it makes it a nightmare to convert in your brain what the the voltmeter is telling you some designe have a crank and cam sensor some have the sensor in the dizzy that diagram is from a usa car you need to see what you have first on your car.
intrade,
Dec 25, 1:53am
now back to analyzing more how it died . if the engine did die in the carpark and the engine was not below 500rpm then in theory it should not have died , it just should have not restarted afterwards . So find out how exactly it happened every minor detail can be a clue in diagnosing things.
tigertim20,
Dec 25, 2:19am
x1
she pulled into the carpark, rolling along at idle and it just stopped
bigfatmat1,
Dec 25, 2:29am
I didn't read thread. The are common failures the coil. The the igniter crank angle assy on top of coil and rotors y have a look on codes. Rennacs this car supports manual code extraction . If there is a code no ignition -ve then chances are it's the igniter Cas assy if no code coil or rotor. Sometimes when the coil fails if you remove dizzy and turn it by hand while while case is earth then you can hear the coil tracking. Also if replacing rotor take note of positions some aftermarket and genuine can go 3 ways
intrade,
Dec 25, 2:32am
what you can do roll it down the hill without crashing in 3th gear spinning engine over and see if rpm needle moves at all. that would be something to do as a test. the 400rpm bypass i think and i would have to read up that is actuarly to turn on your fuel pump. So how is it going to know you reached 400rpm if the sensor used fo that seems to not tell nothing no more? its all logic behind diagnostic the thing is knowing system what is on the car and how to test things.
intrade,
Dec 25, 2:34am
bigfatmat1 where does that engine get its rpm from? it looks like it has no rpm imput is it all in the rotor assembly or external crank -cam sensor or both on these?
franc123,
Dec 25, 3:17am
x1
Yes highly likely it has got a faulty distributor, Mazda K series V6 incorporates coil, ignitor and trigger, it is possible to replace the coil which is mostly what fails but its usual to replace the whole thing. VERY common problem. It goes without saying that spark plugs and leads should be checked and tested and preferably replaced, excess resistance in the secondary circuit is a big killer.
bigfatmat1,
Dec 25, 4:19am
yep good practice to replace coil and crank sensor igniter assy. Also to check and replace plugs leads ect if nessassery
shakespeare6,
Dec 25, 5:00am
I recall having the same very thing happen to me when I had one of these 15 years ago. It gave me a few warnings where is would stop and start up again after a bit. One day it didn't. New complete dizzy and away it went.
tigertim20,
Dec 25, 5:40am
sorted. distributor replaced and she fired right up.
intrade,
Dec 25, 5:46am
most likely everything inside the distributor. you want new plugs leads and cap soonest or it wont be long and its fried again if the cause was high resistance spark cant go thru plug then it goes back and nukes something else. its why you dont pull a lead off a running engine , if it wont zap you and it wont ark to ground then it will zap the electronic compoent instead.
franc123,
Dec 25, 6:43am
Right, now what condition are the plugs, cap and leads in? It may not be the end of the issue yet.
phillip.weston,
Dec 25, 11:52pm
It would have been the ignition module inside the distributor. You can probably guess who manufactures it for Mazda. it has three diamonds on it.
tigertim20,
Apr 28, 7:20pm
correct, it has a mitsi logo on it. took it on a 240km trip today, and its going better than it has since I have owned it (only a couple months)
Plugs look pretty good, but will get replaced when I service it in a week or two along with oil and filters etc etc anyway.
Leads actually appear to be fairly recent as well
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