Clutch shudder at mid pressure engagement

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strobo, Mar 21, 5:16pm
probably a dual mass flywheel !? if not it may need one or if it has one it will need replacing . also if loctite was applied to the bolt threads this to0 can excude? between the crank flange and flywheel throwing an unbalance ! and thus causing a shudder.

intrade, Mar 21, 7:29pm
Well you can't reface a dual mass flywheel .

strobo, Mar 22, 4:42am
I said if it had one it will need replacing! & no you cant machine a DMF, It is a diesel vehicle , and & I believe that particular model did have one.If it was changed to a soild which does happens as some cant afford the $1000 odd part . could be what shagged the g/box in the first place .the G/B becoming the sacrificial harmonic balancer! .

the-lada-dude, Mar 22, 6:58am
I've never come across a DMF, why can't you refurbish the worn damaged parts

mrfxit, Mar 22, 9:36am
It has a solid flywheel, clutch kit was $350.
I had the clutch plate & pressure plate here for a while & the clutch plate was pretty badly worn on the springs.

mrfxit, Mar 22, 9:41am
Manufactures fault.
Weak main bearings, followed by years of neglect & abuse in jaffaland
front main bearing had a chunk missing from it's side wall.
1 of the sleeve bearings was welded to the shaft.

Most of the internals were swapped out in the repair.
Box still had a couple of niggly issues so another was sourced & repaired then transplanted in to my van.

intrade, Mar 22, 11:16am
Because no one make repair components. And special assembly rig is required also.
There is a dual mass test gear a waste of time to check. Because if it tested ok how long before it be worn it wont last another main clutch.

budgel, Mar 22, 12:16pm
There are conversion kits made by Valeo for DMF replacement, but you end up changing everything anyway, so it comes down to economics. On my 1.8 Audi the replacement pressure plate had a different spring arrangement from a regular pressure plate, and the original had no springs as that aspect was taken up by the original DM flywheel.

ema1, Mar 22, 12:28pm
Just a thought, have you checked the end float of the engine crankshaft?
If excessive the crankshaft thrust washers could be suspect?
Engine and gearbox mounts would be one of the other places I'd be looking at.

mrfxit, Aug 6, 10:16pm
Most days it's not a problem.
Did notice recently after having a towbar fitted, that the shudder isn't there most of the time when I have the trailer on.
I'am presuming it's that little bit extra weight holding whatever, firm enough

mrcat1, Aug 6, 10:45pm
I'd be looking at this ^^^^^^^^^ and also what oil they put in the box when they reinstalled it

nzjay, Aug 7, 12:24am
I have exactly the same problem in a 94/5 Nissan Caravan 2l petrol.
Van got partly flooded and clutch was replaced by a reputable garage. The shudder on take off started after about a month or so.
Sometimes it is REALLY bad, other times un-noticeable.
Slipping the clutch with the brake on a couple of times, seems to clear the problem for up to 2 weeks, so I assume a trace of oil is getting in from somewhere. I've heard before about engine mounts on these, but my garage says everything is fine.
Unfortunately, the rust is going to beat the van before it's mechanicals let it down. White van and rusting from the inside out!
The 2litre, 4 cyl motor is incredible, pulls hard as. 200K+ and never missed a beat.

the-lada-dude, Aug 7, 7:55am
Is it dry bollock or cable operated crutch ? <<<<

intrade, Aug 7, 8:18am
machining a flywheel is a waste of time unless its obviously damaged . more important is to replace the seals and spigot bearing if there is one on all engine and trans. for diy replacing the seal in box can be dangerous the nissan caravan i once done had the shaft broken off the housing of the imput shaft its ultra thin engeneerd was the reason the clutch was Slipping it was a z20 petrol LPG engine on that nissan what a nightmare that whole thing was! . i think he drove it however for another 10 years after i fixed it .

intrade, Aug 7, 8:23am
clutch shudder = for all the symptoms above. Miss aligning parts , Then a seezed cable a faulty not correctly serviced hydraulic clutch system returning sticking -heating damaging the friction disk. poorly assembled with dirt flywheel to engine = cowboys who call them self pro-shops.

You can only rule out all problems externally and then either live with it or pull the box off again.

if 28 was a ASE test i would say its afaulty not replaced spigot bearing causeing that symptom and how it fixes it self

budgel, Aug 7, 10:40am
Are there any brackets/bushes supporting the propshaft?
Look for worn bushes elsewhere in the driveline, right back to the rear springs and diff mounts.

mrfxit, Aug 7, 12:10pm
Oil is semi synesthetic 75/85

mrfxit, Aug 7, 12:12pm
Yea starting to wonder about hat.
Tho the shudder went away for about 2 weeks after fitting a new rear gearbox mount.
Maybe need a stiffer mount then factory?

mber2, Aug 7, 3:12pm
normally the cause of clutch shudder

poppy62, Aug 7, 3:19pm
Hi 'Fix, did you happen to use a heavy duty clutch? If so therein lies your problem (my opinion), the hydraulic system for the clutch wasn't designed for the HD unit. and you may find that the use of bigger capacity clutch cylinders may resolve the issue.

mrfxit, Jan 2, 4:46pm
Apparently it was a std set