Year 1995, low mileage, 1-point injection. Used to start first time every time - not this time. Engine starts very briefly (for a second or two) and then stops. Battery is good, plenty of fuel, friend of mine cleaned the spark plugs and a distributor, but still no go. Car was sitting in a garage for 3 weeks while I was away. Any ideas?
gph1961,
Mar 3, 11:54am
you need to know the rule . and the colour is?
intrade,
Mar 3, 12:07pm
ok does a light show up on dashboard while it runs and stalls?
curlcrown,
Mar 3, 12:19pm
relevant question; Is there more that one key?
tamarillo,
Mar 3, 12:21pm
Have you checked it’s pumping enough fuel?
intrade,
Mar 3, 12:24pm
yea i was going to say use the other key. as start stall is potentially a immobiliser issue.
poppy62,
Mar 3, 1:41pm
Possibly an Ignition igniter/module issue. A blocked catalytic (if it has one) could also be the problem.
kazbanz,
Mar 3, 1:46pm
I'll third that
franc123,
Mar 3, 2:32pm
How has it been established it's got 'plenty of fuel'? Is this based on your knowledge of how much is in the tank or has the actual delivery pressure and flow been checked up at the engines fuel rail?
gph1961,
Mar 3, 2:47pm
what rail?
redhead18,
Mar 3, 2:53pm
Meh left for 3 weeks and battery is good?
Was it?
left alone and flat battery can and does = probleemos on a lot of RED vehicles.
marte,
Mar 3, 2:58pm
It's a 1995 car. Would it have immobiliser? If so there's probably a [ KEY] icon lighting up on the dashboard. If so, does it turn on, and then off a few seconds after starting? Or does it stay on?
Starting on the keys starting position & then stopping afterwards indicates first to me that the coils ballast resistor is blown. IF it has one.
gph1961,
Mar 3, 3:02pm
could be a bad wiper blade missed on last WOF?
franc123,
Mar 3, 3:37pm
Injector rail or intake pipe probably in this case.
franc123,
Mar 3, 3:40pm
Gee Emm computa boxes hata the lack of volts= crank them injectors open too much to compensate for the lack of zap. ? .
redhead18,
Mar 3, 3:46pm
Yeah. Juss agrees with ya bro=as ya do
marte,
Mar 3, 4:17pm
It could be. If it's worn out, the increase in distance between the contacts in the distributor & the rotor arms wiper contact blade could cause a higher resistance stopping the spark from jumping while under running conditions.
Dunno if it's a WOF item though.
trade4us2,
Mar 3, 4:38pm
How old is the petrol? It should be OK after 3 weeks but maybe it was filled long ago.
gph1961,
Mar 3, 6:30pm
I concur
gph1961,
Mar 3, 6:33pm
well. it is TBI. so you mean supply to throttle body
tygertung,
Mar 4, 2:17am
It isn't going to be the immobiliser if it runs for a second or two surely?
marte,
Mar 4, 5:55am
My Audi's do exactly this if the wrong key is used, or no key, or the coil pickup thing around the keyhole hasn't got a good electrical connection.
And as mentioned above, about having two keys, it will do it if there's two similar keys on the key ring and the coil picks up the wrong key.
intrade,
Mar 4, 6:09am
yes its how GM cars usually run as did my astra. i experimented with new ecu and unprogrammed key its exactly what it did do.
intrade,
Mar 4, 6:16am
worst case cambelt jumped a tooth. could be a lot of things you rule one after another out. everything above has value just slight incorrect but the testing is the same the gm usually has a shredder valve to measure fuel pressure
karlo,
Mar 4, 2:47pm
Cambelt just changed, so maybe there's a connection :(
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