Toyota dyna 2L 1988

Oil leak from the bottom of the front cover. Replaced the cam seal only a month ago so thought I may have not done it correctly. No oil from the cam seal but with the front cover off again, a lot of oil on the inside of the cover by the injector pump. Can I take the injector pump cog off and fix it from there or does the injector pump have to come out? The injector pump is dry on the outside of the engine. Help is appreciated please

if its black oil (ie engine oil not diesel) then its not coming from the injection pump. if its diesel then its reco injection pump time.

can you post a pic?

something makes no sense the 2L engine has a injector pump run in air . are you sure you have the engine code right?

Its a 2L, 2,4 Litre 1988 Dyna, It is black oil, on the plastic front of engine cover , beside the water pump is the black oil, and then running to the bottom

This model does not have a compressor. Not sure what you mean by 'run in air'.

the injector pump sprocket on a 2L runs in air there is no way that oil could run out from the seal of the injector pump as that is the rear seal or front seal of the pump
the oil if inside the timing cover would be from the cam shaft seal. Now you would want to check the pcv is not blocked up i had a volvo blow out oil with a blocked positive crank vent
its not like a 4m40 mitsubishi or nissan where pump sprocket runs in oil of the other side of the pump seal.

intrade speak for there is no oil around the injection pump.

i would suspect a front plate bolt is loose near the pump. or the pumps starting to leak water and is pushing some black goop out ?
or its coming down from head gasket. if i remember right those early 2l's don't have an oil pressure release valve so it can run some stupidly high oil pressure.

i know them engines if its a rocker roller then you have the topgear engine i fitted a 2.2 L zo my hilux and ran it for years on wasted engine oil and centrifuge cleaned atf . This is the pump if oil comes out of there its diesel and you need akfuel to rebuild your pump.
https://www.dencodiesel.com/products/22100-54780-service-exchange-fuel-pump-toyota-hilux-2l

as far as i know they have a oil pressure releve valve i filled it thru that valve after i had the front cover welded up on my L 2.2 same as the 2,4 as far as i know it was amost the same as the 2L-te engine only difference was 1 bolt on crank shaft flywheel, oil pump is driven from front of crank shaft behind crank seal harmonic balancer inside the engine cover.
my cover had a 2 finger hole rotted in cover from cooling system neglect some kid booged it up I never done no headgasket on that engine it was as in topgear bullet proof.

here is the cover.
https://www.junkmail.co.za/car-spares-and-parts/engine-parts/oil-pumps/kwazulu-natal/north-coast/toyota-hilux-24-2l-front-cover-with-oil-pump/76d8eb5ce2c34edd9eda1a2835d9c5ca

you see the waterpump and 1 oil seal there is the casting up and a bolt for oil pressure to left looking at immage . to the right is where the injector pump runs in air as i said.
if oil is from above waterpump it be as you say headgasket or camshaft seal further up.
To the right you see thet waterpipe my one had a 2 finger size hole where the hose attaches thru the pipes aluminium.
checking oil pressure would be a wise move if it blows on headgasket usually done on oil pressure sender with mechanical gague. i had up to 6 bar at minus 20 in my 1986 fiat uno diesel untill it warmed up a bit 3.5 bar would be what i would want to see maybe 4.5 bar on a cold engine . i am sure there is specs on the net if you look.

if the pump leakse as in picture 9 you can clearly see how the pump sticks thru the housing with the immage i posted from the housing. if you have oil come from pump its 100% a diesel leak . on housing use a 300$ flashlight there is clear marking of pumps timing position. on housing and pump casing . you undo and force the sprocket off by loading it under tension with a puller or with some levers behind while you give the center a smack best to have pump about to come off so you can load it carfully with a crowbar on EAR OF PUMP AND GIVE IT A WHACK with the hammer to unseat it from its cone. There is a keyway dont lose that and make sure its in and not jamming the key when reassembling. Everything is clear and clean marked no special tools or other expensive stuff required to do the work. Other then the reseal of the pump. Do not disasemble the pump only AKFUEL. or other real professional can strip the pump and do the seal as you have to run it on a bench to calibrate if you d$fix that seal and all others while you are at it.
logically when cracking a taperd seal you let the nut on loose to catch the whole thing from falling apart and loose the keyway and damage the pump when it drops off. i guess thats all quite logical straight forward thinking zou also dont hit it like a maniak with a sledge hammer or something. logically

if it is not leaking at the pump with 300 doller flash light then find where it does come from and leave the pump alone. till it does have issues.
also best to still run chemtech flashlube etc every now and then. pumps get more and more rear to com eby with time,

what head 1988 is the year they changed from topgear engine with rocker roller to bucket and shimms cracking heads
scroll down 2L '1 bullet proof 2L2 head cracker budget corner cut engeneerd
https://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=16984
its 98% the same front housing on both types

what you do is wash it all down with engine degreaser and hot water make it clean and then use a suitable flashlight like my 300 doller one to find where the oil really does come from.
Worst one i had was hairline crack in main housing of a subaru legazy. Told client my job was done right you have a cracked block cary oil and fire extinguisher as there repair complete and total disassembly of that boxer engine and then find a part that no one will have. like half a engine housing.