Hi there, can anyone advise me on what the ballpark figure is to change a cambelt in a 1998 Toyota Caldina? And what other parts (waterpump etc) are recommended to change alongside cambelt replacement? Car has about 350,000 on the clock. No visible date of last cambelt change, but I'd say it's at least 100,000kms ago (before I bought it three years ago). Thanks :)
s_nz,
Nov 24, 2:05am
$1000 - $2000. (incl waterpump & seal kit)
You can get a quote from a mechanic so you know exactly what it will cost before you start.
tygertung,
Nov 24, 2:22am
I don't usually change the waterpump, but at those kilometres I would think it to be a good idea.
I usually do my own cambelts though, so water pumps leaking isn't a big deal; I'll just change those when it starts leaking.
So change the belt, waterpump and tensioner pulleys.
intrade,
Nov 24, 2:23am
depends on engine. also . shipping cost has gone up 40% due to the virus and port auckland causing shipping lines to just bypass aucklands with goods on board . So you will have to airfraight parts express and that will add massive extra for end user as they sure as hell are not going to pay 500$ and then charge you 200 for parts as it once was . if you happen to get old stock then the price maybe low. Just to explain . they used to be from 260$ i done 4 A-fe as waterpumps are external . i would doubt i can get the parts for that price now little own do the work included to date. if it is a 2C diesel then it used to be 1200 to 1600$ you can basically double all used to be prices now.
intrade,
Nov 24, 2:27am
you will need to say what engine as the diesel is half the engine is the waterpump where the injector pump also needs to fully be removed. For a 2c i would charge most probably 2500+ now. no one wanted to pay the 1200 bux back then its why they all gone puff by now . unless somone spends money on car servicing. cars are a huge loss to own for anyone in europe. its just here where people think servicing is a optional extra that they think its cheap.
franc123,
Nov 24, 3:01am
Need to know what engine is in it first. Assuming it's a 3SFE which is the most common, $800-1000 will cover it easy, and that's with the correct Toyota parts.This includes the water pump (must do) and removing the oil pump and doing its seals also, this is strongly.recommended as there is an O ring which shrinks and splits at random and spews oil over the belt. This may have been done previously but if course unless you have an itemized receipt for the last change, most likely no. If whoever is quoting on this job doesnt know about this, use someone else! It is if course up to you if want to put this much money into it given its age and kms they're not interference engines.
fuzzychow,
Nov 24, 3:08am
I'm not sure what the engine type is, but it's a Toyota Caldina 2.0G, petrol, 2L, auto, non-turbo, FWD, chassis type ST210, engine number 3S-7431989.
kazbanz,
Nov 24, 3:21am
A couple of questions back atcha--petrol /diesel ? 1600cc (rare) 1800cc or 2000cc?Turbo/non turbo.? Allowing it is "just" a petrol/non turbo I would be spending $1000 roughly on the job if I intend to keep the vehicle and about $350.00 if I was just wanting to be sure the belt doesn't break. The $1000 would be to change the cambelt,water pump,tensioner, crank end seal and cam end seal. By now those seals will be getting hard and ready to start leaking. That said if the plug leads haven't been changed I would most likely pay the extra and change them and the plugs. Plugs because they come out anyways so no extra labour. Plug leads because caldina plug leads generally are light weight and prone to dying after being disturbed. If the seals and leads have already been changed in the past few years then you can drop them off the list.
fuzzychow,
Nov 24, 3:28am
Hi Kazbanz, I answered those questions in the post just above yours :)
fuzzychow,
Nov 24, 3:31am
And I want to hold onto the car and keep it running well for a few years at least, not do a quick job and flick it off :)
intrade,
Nov 24, 3:33am
look under bonnet what engine is on bacl plate. or if your lazy you can just carjam and look what number is listed. www.carjam.co.nz ok lol so a 3S engine as per above you need to make sure the job is done right. there is a rubber silicone oil seal behind the oil pump that can only be done realistically easy when cambelt is off. also get the transmission serviced there is a filter inside that needs to be changed then the trans flushed after the sump was off cleaned new gasket and filter. and you be good till 420.000km its where my corolla spat the dummy with the plastic speed govener cog worn only had 1 and reverese as symptom.
intrade,
Nov 24, 3:42am
wise idea would be to find another trans for parts or swap . my mate used to do whangarei auckland airport in a 2.0 diesel caldina 15 years ago. he had to rebuild the torque converter at 400 odd km then its gone till 600 something when the engine finally showed loss of power due to wear= when he scrapped it. as the trans could have given trouble again any time soon with that sort of km.
I was typing same time as you were :-) --on that basis it TOTALLY stand by my advice.
tygertung,
Nov 24, 5:15am
Yes the crankshaft and camshaft seals are definitely worth doing at the same time.
franc123,
Nov 24, 6:26am
Budget a grand and follow what I said. Pretty simple.
kiwilandchch,
Nov 24, 11:06am
also check prices with toyota as ive found some after market parts cost more then toyotas Id rather use toyota parts where i can Oil pump o ring or gasket if you like is much better think ness then any after market one I came across
kazbanz,
Nov 24, 11:16am
As above I 99% agree -I would just add a new set of plugs because they are out anyway and leads if needed because if they are still factory they are likely to be knackered by disturbing them (or im just unlucky /clumsy)
sw20,
Nov 24, 12:43pm
Yes very reasonable. Amazing how cheap genuine plugs are. I paid $12 for the correct set of four Denso plugs for my old Corolla, I do have a hookup for parts, but even retail would be under $20 for all four. Far cheaper than those two popular aftermarket parts places.
franc123,
Nov 24, 2:55pm
I thought you were an athlete Kaz? Do you need extra weetbix or a longer breaker bar? I've not removed plugs or leads on a 3SFE when doing belts ever I don't think, possibly once when I had to do an RC gasket on a RAV4 or Corona or whatever it was that needed doing at the same time. It's easy enough to turn them over by hand just to get the timing mark's aligned.
kazbanz,
Nov 24, 3:11pm
smart ass 😁 l guess I’m too old skool . Always remove the plugs doing a timing belt or chain. It’s just a habit l guess .
franc123,
Nov 24, 4:43pm
I understand why. Its helpful when adjusting valve clearances but less so when doing timing belts unless by chance the tensioning procedure involves doing several hand rotations of the engine and rechecking afterwards. On old stuff that's been subject to several hundred thousand km of underbonnet heat it makes sense to not touch rubber or plastic things you don't have to.
redhead18,
Nov 24, 4:57pm
Sheesh Boi you check on blardy valve timing the same way i do? Starts when ya turn the key and PROVES ya damn well KNOW it IS right-LOL
franc123,
Nov 24, 5:15pm
Something like that. I've never removed a belt or chain off a motor until its lined up where it should be, even on engines I know. Especially when some of them decide to use a random oil pump mark that's 90 degs off and not TDC. 6VD1 Isuzu V6 comes to mind. How ya keeping fella?
kazbanz,
Oct 19, 4:57pm
yea I know what you are saying. I guess ive just been caught out too many times. --Must be me being a clumsy clot
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.