Nissan SR18DE ignition timing

Here's a weird one.
Follow the FSM and then hook up timing light. On 1 & 4 timing marks are about 180 degrees out. Hmm out of curiosity try 2 & 3. Marks bang on but engine sounds "off" and idle erratic. AFAIK completely impossible for the timing marks to be 90 degrees out as dizzy direct drive (offset) from camshaft.
Will pop the DTI down the plug hole tomorrow to confirm TDC but I suspect that the 2 piece harmonic has done a spin. If it has no big deal as replacement ex o'seas is $35nz. Compare that to local pricing of about $3-400

so harmonic balancer has the crank Reluctor mark on it?
uplug the crank sensor and see if it runs better?

No crank sensor, only sensor is in the dizzy so gets crank position via the timing chain.

Here's a weird one.
Follow the FSM

L M A O
Disconnect TPS written in FSM?

On 1 & 4 timing marks are about 180 degrees out. Hmm out of curiosity try 2 & 3. Marks bang on

SHEESH TRY 1342 IN ENGLISH. lol

Something deep in the memory banks tells me the old Nissan ECCS needs to be put into a self test mode before timing is checked. You had to rotate a screw on the computer or bridge something out and it flashed any fault codes out at the same time.

Something deep in the memory banks tells me the old Nissan ECCS needs to be put into a self test mode before timing is checked. You had to rotate a screw on the computer or bridge something out and it flashed any fault codes out at the same time. I'd be checking for any intake air leaks first before being concerned with timing. Any odd tapping, rattling or squeaking from around the cams?

And the easy way to test the intake gasket is fill a water bottle with water (best with a bottle with a sipper end), now just squirt the water all over the area where the intake joins the cylinder head.

The engine idle will change if it sucks water in to the intake, and will run erratically.

At the same time test all the vacuum hoses with the water method as well.

Yep FSM says to disconnect TPS - Done
Set idle at 750
Timing light on Cyl 1 shows crank pully at approx. 200 degrees ATDC or 160 BTDC
Indicator rod in No 1 plug hole and set to TDC. Crank pully timing mark at 160BTDC.
Outer ring on pully has rotated. New one ordered.

Rig temp indicator for TDC check timing 1 degree retarded from spec.
Check plugs look to be new BKR6EIX swap for some old BKR6EY no change. Put EIX's back in. Firing on all 4.
Check leads - all within spec, ran in dark no stray leaks.
Check and clean MAF, Air & Fuel filters both new
OBD 1 - no codes but MIL on. FSM says that might be faulty temp sensor.
Access to item less than nil so will rig a suitable resistor to trick it into thinking its at normal temp tomorrow.
Problem:
Cold start instant idles fine
Drive 100mtrs and stop (still in drive) engine dies instantly. Restarts instantly wont idle needs about 1500rpm to keep going. On road will rev out smoothly to limiter, pulls like a teenager. Town driving cuts out at about 75% of intersections, restarts but needs 1500 revs.

Grrr and this crap is supposed to be better. Give me a 2cv any day

be careful what you wish for