Brake bleeding problem Page 1 / 2

gmphil, Sep 24, 6:40pm
2013 territory awd
Replaced the brake pads front and rear and bleed up
Without engine running feels almost good (possible still need another bleed but did that and didn't seem to help soon as i start the engine the pedal goes to the floor.
Is there some trick to these?

intrade, Sep 24, 6:44pm
2013 most probably you need to actuate brake bleeding via factory level scantool on a 2013 model . i can go look if you give more details in my eucleya scantool it has loads of such functions

intrade, Sep 24, 6:49pm
listing a 2.7 or 4.0 terrtory in eucleya for abs bleeding
dohc vct engine or direct injected turbo. Are scantool bleed 2004 2011 or 2014 so 2014 be probably 2011 or 14.

gmphil, Sep 24, 6:50pm
Rego gsp705

gmphil, Sep 24, 6:51pm
2.7 diesel

intrade, Sep 24, 6:54pm
listing is 2.7 direct injector turbo that could be yours. If you want to diy things on anything newer you will need a factory level scanner Stahlcar has a good selection my launch scanner is from stahlcar.

intrade, Sep 24, 7:08pm
there is one trick with engine going you push pedal and other person opens nipple for a fraction of a secound and shuts the nipple again.
i have not had to use abs bleed function normally abs unit has a bleeder also id say you will need to use that if you had worked on abs unit. or completly had the system full of air.
i do the above y my selfs i have a brake pedal depressor a stick can be the one depressing the pedal also if you know what you do but a person pushing it is usually better but dont open it till the pedal hits the floor. only a fraction of a secound on each wheel left rear right front left front right rear X across

toyboy3, Sep 24, 7:15pm
Clamp the hoses and see which corner is giving trouble, or if only got one clamp move it around and try it on each hose

m16d, Sep 24, 7:31pm
So why would you need to bleed the brakes if you've only changed the pads.
Obviously you've pulled something off you shouldn't have.

intrade, Sep 24, 7:33pm
you get air in when you open the nipple. i had it every time 8 out of 10 cars get air thru the thread on the nipple. thats why you need to push the piston to purge that air out.
and yes you dont need to open the brake nipple to change pads normally. every professional pushes the fluid back up in to the resorvoire as you suposed to have clean fluid exchanged every 24 month
Maybe he did a fluid exchange at same time?

gmphil, Sep 24, 7:36pm
Yup open the nipples so could compress piston back in calipers

intrade, Sep 24, 7:40pm
you got air in there now purge it like i told you

m16d, Sep 24, 7:48pm
Wrong. get a "G" clamp and push the fluid back into the master cylinder. no need to open the bleeder.

intrade, Sep 24, 7:51pm
to late now that he has air in there

gmphil, Sep 24, 7:57pm
Yup try wot u said in morning see how goes

franc123, Sep 24, 8:40pm
Like hell you do, thats yet another thing you don't understand. The correct method is to block the hose off, open the bleed nipple up then push the pistons back, that way any dirty fluid that's accumulated in the caliper gets expelled and not sent back into the modulator or master cyl. Brake fluid should only move in one direction from the master cylinder through the system to the caliper, never the other way. Then carry out the pad replacement and top up or preferably replace the fluid as required.

bigfatmat1, Sep 24, 10:17pm
Alot of modern cars brake pedal will slowly go to floor if you hold it down. I have a big long bit of training material explaing why this happens. But not suddenly

sr2, Sep 24, 10:20pm
100% in agreement with you.

Edited to say: surge bleeding when you suspect there mare be air in the system will often aerate the fluid - Intrade mate, you should know better.

marte, Sep 25, 2:11am
If the brake child's supposed to be changed every 2 years, then by the time the pads need changed, it's time to do the brake fluid anyway.

And who actually)y does it every 2 years? Or 3 years, or 30 kkms?

All it takes is to suction out what's in the brake reservoir, top it back up with new fluid, like a whole $15 worth, open bleed nipple & attach hose setup, pumpa pumpa pedal till the fluids clean & close nipple & do that 4 times.

I use the plastic hose with a aquarium one way valve on it into a old fluid bottle. One man job.

After edit.
Oh and I have experienced what happens if you don't change the fluid, Downhill on the old Arthur's pass zigzag. You don't want to experience that.

differentthings, Sep 25, 5:22pm
btw. You don't even need a one way valve in the hose as long as the end is resting in brake fluid. I also got taught never put a clamp on a brake hose as it will damage it.

intrade, Sep 25, 5:26pm
i agree especially vice grips and i naturally assumed as he said he did bleed it he used the correct methodes to get to that point.
the screw thread it self lets air in when it is of its seat its why you bleed it with my methode discribed further up.

strobo, Sep 25, 5:44pm
geeze the amount of misinformation in this thread just makes me sick! Different blokes different strokes I guess !

wind.turbine, Sep 25, 7:53pm
every set of pads I always just flush new fluid right through so never cared about not getting air in the system.
I always crack the nipple right out then push piston right back which expels all the crap in the cylinder out the nipple.
by the time everything is cleaned and new pads installed, the master cylinder has drained through so fill and bleed it right the way through.

I never ever clamp or kink brake lines, last I remember is those things are between you stopping or not stopping. I have had a steel brake tube fail a few years back that had rusted out but never seen in and COFs as it was so well hidden, was not a fun experience!

For the price of brake fluid it is a no brainier to completely renew it when replacing pads or every 2 ish years

scuba, Sep 25, 8:34pm
Years ago clamping brake hoses was the norm when working on brake systems. Brake hoses are more rigid now and often cant be clamped without damaging. To In Trade before i bought brake hose clamps i often used a small pair of vice grips to clamp hoses it just meant you watched what you were doing and didn't over tighten them. It was never a good idea to force old fluid back through the Master as someone else said i used to empty the Master Cylinder first and refill with new fluid then bleed the system and change the fluid anytime the pads or shoes were changed- brake fluid is the cheapest part of the system.

bumfacingdown, Sep 25, 8:55pm
I thought clamping brake hoses was used by old skool boi racers who used it as line lock for doing skids

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