Courier WLT Cambelt Part 2.

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budgel, Jan 7, 7:41pm
My Rocker arms finally arrived this morning (thursday) and I fitted them along with a new cambelt and tensioner.
When I fitted the cambelt I turned the engine over by hand for two revolutions as recommended by the workshop manual, and could feel compression on each cylinder as I passed through that stroke. I could also feel it when I adjusted the valve clearances.
The bad news is that when I tried to start it she wouldnt fire even with a small squirt of starting fluid which I used to verify that it wasnt a fuel issue, even though there is no real reason why the fuelling could have changed.

I'm a bit disappointed but I knew that replacing the rockers and hoping it would be OK was a long shot. I am only out by the price of the rockers as I knew I would need a cambelt and tensioner whatever path I took.
I'll have another look tomorrow, but I think the head will be coming off, and then I'll decide what the best course of action is.

A year ago I had four vehicles, now I am down to one broken ute, so will probably buy a runabout now that the ute repair is going to take a bit longer.

jmma, Jan 7, 8:18pm
How about doing a compression test before you go any further.

franc123, Jan 7, 8:27pm
I would be double checking that cam timing first.

mechnificent, Jan 7, 8:29pm
If it's got good compression it should still go Budgel. I've got a comp tester if you want to check it.
Have you tried bleeding and checked the glowplugs ?

mechnificent, Jan 7, 8:30pm
And as they say, the pump and the cam might not be right for oneother.

mechnificent, Jan 7, 8:32pm
Loosen No1 injector and turn it till diesel comes out, then take it to top and check the valves are closed on No1.

gph1961, Jan 7, 9:01pm
yes do that

budgel, Jan 7, 9:11pm
Yep that's first on the list for tomorrow, although its hard to get it wrong on the Courier, and the marks all lined up, even after a couple of revolutions.

budgel, Jan 7, 9:14pm
Thanks for the offer for the comp tester, I may take you up on it, although I think compression is the problem because it may have been turning over faster on the key than it should.
I havent tried bleeding yet, I cant really understand why it would need it as the fuel system hasnt been opened.
I havent checked the glowplugs, but they were recently replaced.

mechnificent, Jan 7, 9:33pm
Check the injection's happening when both valves are closed, not when they are both rocking.

mechnificent, Jan 7, 9:44pm
The fuel probably doesn't need bleeding, but just in case there's some tiny leak that doesn't normally cause problems but is now it's sat for a while. Always check the easy stuff first.

And I doubt it will need the head off. If it had bent a valve there would be no compression at all at hand rotating speed.

Cam's a half turn out I reckon, or rather, the crank needs turning one full turn to put the injection in time with the cam.

franc123, Jan 7, 9:51pm
It's dead easy to get it 180 degrees out. The pump sprocket mark should be visible and all 3 valves on No 1 cyl should be shut, ie all the cam lobes should be facing up. If it's the other way around all that will be happening is the injector will be injecting at the top of the exhaust stroke.

budgel, Jan 7, 10:01pm
The pump sprocket mark was lined up with its pointer and the cam sprocket was lined up with its mark. No1 valves were as you described.
I really think the compression I could feel just wasnt enough, but I'll check.
Thanks.

mechnificent, Jan 7, 10:01pm
And is the new belt tracking straight ?
No sign of creeping ?

Not for the no start, because of the original problem.

redhead18, Jan 7, 11:42pm
glow plugs recently replaced simply means weld/braze an air connection to an old one and do four cylnder leakage tests BFORE beheading it.
[been sittin for a while valve and valve seat surfaces crudded up .
No shame in tow starting it either. ]

muppet_slayer, Jan 8, 2:26am
Is this the one that broke the cambelt and smashed all the rockers? YEh Nah if it is then I think you're quite ambitious thinking none of the valves are bent. Just takes a little bit of carbon on the top of the piston to knock the valve head to one side and those valves have had a hell of a stressful time being slammed shut.

budgel, Jan 8, 11:23am
It seems OK as far as I can tell with just being turned over by the starter motor.

budgel, Jan 8, 11:26am
Oh I agree, I realised that it was a long shot, but it was worth a try.

bigfatmat1, Jan 8, 12:43pm
Its common rail. You shouldn't crack injector pipes. Check fault codes give compression test

budgel, Jan 8, 1:47pm
No, it's the last of the non-common rail Fords/Mazdas.

mechnificent, Jan 8, 4:47pm
Did you pump/bleed the fuel and crack a pipe and check the injector timing against the cam timing ?

mechnificent, Jan 8, 6:07pm
"When I fitted the cambelt I turned the engine over by hand for two revolutions as recommended by the workshop manual, and could feel compression on each cylinder as I passed through that stroke. I could also feel it when I adjusted the valve clearances. ".

I believe you.

budgel, Jan 8, 9:58pm
No, I just relied on the timing marks on the pump as it hadnt been removed.
I'm starting to think that although I felt compression when I turned it over, it probably wasnt enough.
How can I get hold of you to borrow your compression tester? TXT?
Oh two one one five nine oh five eight six.

franc123, Jan 9, 2:11am
Something else worth trying here is removing the hose that connects the intercooler with the intake manifold, and while someone else cranks it listen for any pressure escaping back through the manifold or odd air pulsation out the exhaust pipe. If the valves are leaking it should be obvious.

mechnificent, Jan 9, 7:23am
Morning. Yes the cam and injectors should be hard to get wrong I'd think, unless it had a scribe line that went right across the cam pulley, which I presume it doesn't.
I was thinking you'd be familiar with the compression and if it felt like it had compression at hand turning speed, then it must be right.
I'll be in touch shortly.