Help Please - Nissan Pulsar that wants to kill me!
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gypsydancer,
Jun 26, 9:11pm
So, my car is a 1992 Nissan Pulsar X1. (3dr hatch, manual) It starts fine, idles fine, but after a few minutes it starts to play up. This means, I get in the car, take off - usually taking my girls to school - and just up the road is where the problems start. I put my foot down to take off from the lights, and it just chokes and almost stalls. (this is where it wants to get me and my kids killed - needless to say, I avoid driving them whenever possible.) If I take my foot off the gas, it keeps running, but threatens to stall if I don't then rev it up. when I finally can take off, it bunny hops while it gets over its choking fit, and then clears itself and I take off. But wait, there's more.as soon as I slow down at the next lights or turn, it does it again. It eventually quits doing this, but sometimes it's done it all the way to wherever I'm going. Now, I have been told it could be the automatic choke, or a buggered carburetor. Any thoughts! Do I just have to spend 20 minutes (and precious fuel/money) warming it up every morning! Or is there something that can be done!
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 9:20pm
what is your temp guage reading!
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:21pm
X1 is probably a GA15DS engine with the carby. dying when you put down the gas and its cold would suggest that the accelerator pump is not working as its meant to.
Plenty of these engines around, Id probably just try a different carby on it.
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 9:22pm
how bout trying some diagnosing before you start replacing bits.
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:25pm
it certainly sounds alike a fuelling issue. The OP is welcome to waste a heap of time and or money diagnosing a problem then shelling out for a rebuild kit if necessary. Im saying that I personally would find a carby off one of hte many available engines around and whack that on.
When did you last replace your fuel filter!
kcf,
Jun 26, 9:26pm
x1
labour cost of replacing 2nd hand carb shouldn't be much, so financially most likely better off to throw another carb at it, than fuss about diagnosing and chasing parts.
gypsydancer,
Jun 26, 9:26pm
lyonruge temp reading is right in the middle, never ventures far from that.
Thanks for your help guys. I'll be back online soon to respond to anything else :)
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 9:31pm
Can you do minor maintenance/checks yourself! if so, give it a run, get it warm, pull off the air cleaner top, on top of the carb and have a look down to see if the choke flap is closed, if it is carbed, will have an auto choke, may be seized, sure a new carb will fix that, but often they can be repaired, 1/2 to an 1 hours labour, and changing the carb will probably be the same.
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:37pm
The trouble is, I've never found that a choke stuck on would cause those symptoms. Stuck off certainly could when it is cold, as it would be running to lean to sustain combustion in a cold engine.
Perhaps the choke is getting stuck off.
OP, when you do a cold start, does the engine rev more than at normal warm idle or does it idle slower!
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 9:39pm
if its stuck on it wont let air through, good god, find an old car and drive around around with the choke pulled out!
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:42pm
Umm, they are sprung loaded flaps, the engine pulls through as much air as it needs. Choke stuck on will make it run rough and use a ton of fuel but not the cause of stalling when you put your foot down
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 9:45pm
are you an auto tech!
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:48pm
are you a police officer!
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 9:48pm
anyways, OP, if you can see the choke mehanism on the side of the carb, it may have two water hoses, one is in and one is out, when the engine is at OP temp, the hoses should both be the same temp, to the touch, if not the mechanism is blocked and not working, that would be the first test to make, it wont cost any thing, check it yourself, if one is hot and one is cold, you may be able to clear it, or replace the mechanism.
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:56pm
Another option is that the automatic choke relay has bad electrical connections and is not triggering it.
When you have a cold engine and push the accelerator down the choke valve should shut. You can then push it and check that the spring loading is operating correctly. Start the engine, it should rev to about 2500rpm and have the choke valve shut, the engines vacuum will open it against the spring as it requires.
If the choke valve is not shut with a cold + running engine then come back and let me know.
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 9:57pm
Are you familiar with this particular carburettor! It certainly doesnt sound like it
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 10:02pm
whys that!
morrisman1,
Jun 26, 10:02pm
because it has an electronic control, no water pipes.
kazbanz,
Jun 26, 10:05pm
OP -PLEASE ignore the bickering between the two guys above. I must say I agree with BOTH of them. One is comeing from a pro mechanics point of viewthe other from a home mechanics. They both have basicly the same diagnosis-just a different solution. By the tone of your posts I think you might be a non mechanical type person so please do the following. Start the car up. Go inside your house and get the kids ready for school. leave the car running for about 1/4 of an hour (or more) Now drive to school. Report back if the car did the same thing or if ran perfectly.
My thinking guys is its the auto choke so driving with the car warmed up will tell if its that. (for a non mechanic type)
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 10:07pm
luckily for me then i said "It MAY have" just giving her some options, hate to seethe good old, chuck a new **** on it" without testing anything out, so common today unfortunately.
OHH OK. Look you haven't a clue what you are on about why don't you go crawl back into . There ya go
lyonruge,
Jun 26, 10:22pm
slow day is it in the kz world! get out on the yard and sell something!
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