Going to help a mate take the SR20DET out of his GTIR pulsar. . . . what problems could i possibly run into! not to clued up on 4WD set ups so if anyone could help e out it would be much appriciated
dent,
Nov 23, 9:25pm
Drop the whole lot out together and part out on bench.
therafter1,
Nov 23, 9:26pm
A bit of a mission if you don??
sr2,
Nov 23, 11:12pm
I ran a GTIR Rally car for a few years and did many g/box, clutch and motor swaps. We used to always take the engine, box and transfer case as one unit out of the bottom of the car. With no mechanicals the front of the car is quite easy to lift, we did it a couple of times in the middle of a rally with just a trolley jack and a couple of knuckle draggers! They are great little cars but can be quite tight to work on (to say the least!), let us know how it goes.
austingtir,
Nov 24, 12:21am
IF you seperate the gearbox in car things like the prick bolt underneath the starter are a pain (if its still there). Things like that and bits of the Y bracket supporting the inlet manifold can be biffed/modified and not put back in when you reassemble it makes it alot easier for future jobs on the car, as long as you dont get silly about it they are perfectly fine without some pieces.
Most people will drop the whole lot but it is doable to drop the gearbox side of the motor and shimmy the gearbox and transfer off. its not fun though.
In saying all that you appear to want the motor out so yeah without a hoist its best to have an engine crane or a really good high lift jack.You need to be able to lift the whole front chassis high enough to clear the engine and then either push the car back off the engine or drag the engine and box out from underneath.
sr2,
Nov 24, 12:42am
+1 on leaving the inlet manifold support girdle out!
philltauranga,
Nov 24, 2:22pm
My car didnt have one when I brought it, so I got one and put mine back in, there seemed to be alot of weight in the inlet manifold and out quite far out from the block, being a long and deep manifold. I didnt want the weight levering on the manifold bolts. Ba5tard of a car to work on, last job I did- the clutch master cylinder--- thats a take the intake manifold off job just to get to it. I would recomend he change the starter motor brushes, P/S & alternator belts, while the engine is out, saves the hassle later on when they need doing.
philltauranga,
Nov 24, 2:22pm
My car didnt have one when I brought it, so I got one and put mine back in, there seemed to be alot of weight in the inlet manifold and out quite far out from the block, being a long and deep manifold. I didnt want the weight levering on the manifold bolts. Ba5tard of a car to work on, last job I did- the clutch master cylinder--- thats a take the intake manifold off job just to get to it. If its done over say 150,000 km, I would recomend he change the starter motor brushes, P/S & alternator belts, water pipes under the manifold, and water pump, while the engine is out, saves the hassle later on when they need doing.
austingtir,
Nov 24, 7:35pm
There are two or three pieces to that y bracket you only really need the support on the inlet side.Either cut one side of the Y off or make something to go up the inlet side.It makes life with one of these things 100% easier.Its pretty well documented on most of the gtir forums around the world that most people leave these off and no real problems have been reported.
I must also note that in 13 years of ownership i have never fully removed the motor from this particular car I have on others though. I have done pretty much every job on it by now.Did the clutch master a couple of months ago without removing the inlet manifold aswell.I figure its a bastard either way so i prefer upping the degree of difficulty.
Also you can remove the water supply to the inlet manifold and weld the pipes up if you confident you wont be starting it below freezing.That makes an enormous difference to making the inlet manifold easier to remove.
timmo1,
Nov 25, 2:20pm
My next door neighbour had a very rapid GTIR (Yellow TASLO engineering car in Rotorua).never got a ride in it unfortunately.
austingtir,
Nov 25, 10:07pm
Last i heard that car is getting a rb26 conversion but its just hearsay as i havent seen it myself.If they are they are using the wrong motor a vq25det or vq30det with the 4wd bits from a m35 stagea and r34 getrag gearbox is a far better option but everybody just seems to love their overpriced RB's.
morrisman1,
Nov 25, 10:14pm
RB would do a great job of making an already nose heavy car absolutely diabolical.
austingtir,
Nov 25, 10:34pm
x1
Exactly and what cracks me up is that there is already about 3 or 4 of these bastardised conversions getting around.
mrfxit,
Nov 25, 10:48pm
HATE, HATE & yep. you guested it. I HATE working on any part of those AWD nissans, those involves any part thats on the ends/ backs or underneath the engines. last starter motor cost me a fair bit of skin / blood & wrist stress
cypherboy,
Nov 25, 10:54pm
x1
I would like to see a worked SR20VET from a xtrail plonked in there.
austingtir,
Nov 26, 12:26am
They are not all they are cracked up to be either I havent done the actual xtrail vet but i have installed a primera sr20ve into a gtir and added a turbo.The response is great but you need to run something larger than a gt3071 with a decent size back housing to make them work decent otherwise its just a waste of time.And by that stage you really want to stip the motor down and replace the pistons and upgrade the cams as the x-trail vet only has the activation on one side of the head.The primera 20v head is actually a better base to start with and bolt it to a GTIR block as there isnt any huge advantage to the VET other than the head potential.
The VE or VET has more rotating mass in the cylinder head with all the xtra lobes and stuff in there.If you are o.k with giving up a little in the bottom end the GTIR head is perfectly adequate for almost any build.
Yes that is correct.Its a pretty big job and lots of fabrication to get it right.You pretty much need a donor skyline or m35 4wd so you can cut the transmission tunnel out and steering setup as all that needs to be installed for it to work. or loads of custom stuff.As i said the VQ motors are a better bet for this conversion as the front diff is actually moved forward on the vq motor aswell as the vq being aluminium block and weighing not much more that a sr20det.My bet is the weight distribution if done right would possibly be better than a stock gtir.
Cheers for the info mate, having performed quite a number of engine/transmission and suspension swaps over the years I always get a little suspicious when people talk of ???dropping??? or ???chucking??
mrfxit,
Nov 26, 12:48am
In the old days . YEP it often was a case of "chuck it in" AND it would be fine. Did that with a 1968 FD Victor, dropped in a hotted up 186 Holden & Toyota 5sp box. 1 full day wonder from strip to drive away.
sr2,
Nov 26, 1:11am
LOL, we did a 289 into a PB Vauxhall over a weekend in the early 70??
mrfxit,
Nov 26, 1:14am
LOL nah mine handled pretty good for that vintage & when that body rotted, I dropped the lot in to a 1974 Sunbird. Dang handling was much better
johnf_456,
Nov 26, 3:37am
I remember that crash if its the one I am thinking of sr2, amongst the lovely north shore I live in at the moment.
morrisman1,
Nov 27, 12:59pm
x1
From what I understand, besides the oil feed for the cams, the Xtrail VET block and the GTiR DET block are near on identical, External oil feed for cams is easy enough. Best option is the P11 sr20ve head because they are cheap and common. It would be a struggle to find a p12 head.
Its a pity that real VET engines are near on non-existant.
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.