Lexus v8 smoking!

Keerist 2 pages.

Post#1. no engine check lite at all?
Well-about time this was clarified as bulb works?

Post#8. Temp gauge not reading either,used to.!

Good point snoops, as I did mention a hands on diagnoses would give possible results.
No codes lodged =no engine check light . but could be a blown check light bulb which could still light irrespective of fault codes being lodged. Hmmmm the plot thickens.
Could be a bit of a smelling a rat scenario going on with this one snoops. as in being dicked around with by some "cowboy"?

Another thought has the car been for a "swim" and or had water contamination somehow or been in an accident at some stage, none of us know of that possibility yet?

I agree about the jap electrics Ema.

You and I were both around when the first of the jap cars arrived here. tiny daihatsu bubble cars with a 360cc engine, isuzu bellets, nissan bluebirds. I was an apprentice at a gm dealer and we thought those thin wires they had must be a bad idea, they were half the thickness of pommy stuff. but guess what. time after time it's the thick pommy or ocker wires that kept breaking where they went into doors or were free to wobble a bit. This was in the days before electronics of course, but even the wiring was better.
And then as we drove the cars we couldn't believe how well they went, how they'd rev. We all scoffed and laughed about how we'd done some speed in second or third and all agreed that those engines were never going to last being that revvy. It took a while, not till the jappas started consistently exceeding the 60,000 miles we all hoped to get out of four cylinder cars in those days, that we understood just how bloody brilliant they were. and then the jappas started getting up to 100,000 miles and we thought that was amazing and realised that these things were brilliantly designed. In those days of course it was only six or eight cylinder cars that got to 100,000 miles, and only the best of them at that. Most fours were really only capable of 40-60,000 miles before they needed an engine overhaul.

The bodies rusted early in those days, and we thought they didn't know how to make good metal. They were using the good metal though for where it was needed, in the conrods and camshafts and cranks and those places where, in the old pommy stuff, a break would occur.
Eventually the japs decided the rust wasn't acceptable to us here and so started using better metal in the bodies too.

And look where they have lead the world too. now we all expect our four cylinder to go like the clappers, with good fuel economy, and to do 250.000Km at least without any serious work done, and 400,000 isn't uncommon.

We have a lot to thank the jap motor industry for.

And I've omitted to mention euro problems there because we know how over-sensitive and partial to those some here are. and I wouldn't want to start an argument. Not here, not in TM. That would bring the tone of the place down .

Europhiles ( one in particular )manage to do that all by themselves mech.

You mean our technology expert ?
The one with all the proper good quality equipment.
the one that finds the parts for his cars(not that they should ever need any of course), very reasonably priced.

Ha. yeah.

If they weren't countered somehow they would spam the crap out of these message boards and ruin it for everyone. strewth plenty of folks with good knowledge and are/were willing to help out have left because of the fractious frankly unwelcome demeaning dismissive nature of Euro biased rants and and I can hardly blame them.
I can think of several of well informed and helpful folks who can't be bothered by the Euro bombing rhetoric poisoning and dissing of meaningful directed discussions/questions on non Euro subjects, rarely does the opposite happen and if it does the crap and vitriolic insults aren't too far from rising to the surface !
For a while things were good when T M Motoring board had a friendly non combative informative amount of discussions that ensued but lately same as a good while ago things would go to "hell in a hand cart all to often !" and O.P's would often simply bail out, sad really and so so un necessary !
I sometimes answer what I consider to be legitimate questions of stuff non Euro, Toyota and some other Japanese/Korean mainly, if I feel the need to help out some one who is really needing help one way or another, but I object strongly to dismissal crap and discrediting of makes being asked about and options of a Euro being suggested as being "all or nothing" or "doing better" and or telling folks to do the "Math" etc for god's sake that's plain straight out spamming/trolling that almost all on here get accused of.
Frankly it's rude as hell and the clown doing it just doesn't know he's not doing himself nor any of the Euro "fanboy cohorts" , nor possibly any sellers of Euro's any favours at all.

The warning lights all work and go out when engine starts,the cats have been deleted years ago,but sensors in place in the system.There used to be a lot of 1uz-fe motors on here but the seem have dried up.

They can still be got . albeit for a cost?
I sincerely hope you get your Lexus sorted with out too many drama's flack88 they are a mighty fine car and one of the best luxury cars out there. cheers.
Keep us interested ones informed of progress please !

It is a shame when the arguing gets in the way of helpful discussion and problem solving.
That other thing that's a bit annoying is when the techno-dependent start insisting that high tech is the only way to diagnose things. Cars have diagnostic tools built in, such as trouble codes and diagnostic mode. Then what's needed mostly is a good understanding of basics. How the components work, how they are combined in different combinations, and a careful study of not just the symptoms, but the circumstances under which the problem occurs.
It's really important as a working mechanic that we are able to reproduce the fault at will, and that we are sure that it's what we are doing to cause the fault, and no other thing that is causing it. then we've not only figured the problem out clearly, but are also able to be sure we have fixed the problem after the repair. by trying the thing that provoked the symptom/problem.

It would e nice to be able to start a thread explaining how components and systems work, and proper diagnostic procedures etc, for people's benefit. It's been tried before, by me and others, but unfortunately the useful suggestions and help from the real mechanics get lost in the deluge of misinformation and handy tricks that people have found to work on one model or instance.
It's a shame really.

Dead right, but I'll just let the know all Google Warrior back yarder Euro fan boy continue on his merry way with all his rhetoric be it OK or full of half truths and blatant lies and so on.
What the hell do we care, those so taken in will end up realizing the error of their ways to their detriment . I believe some already have. tough!
Lots of it has an air of desperation to it which doesn't fool those in the know ever. right !
We'll just continue on with the knowledge hard gained over good lengths of time to ourselves as ultimately it was gained at our expense & that time. probably best to keep it to ourselves like other mechs/techs that have already departed from the T M Motoring boards. sad old place it's turned into where myths/lies and vitriolic agenda biased propaganda tend to exist in copious amounts .

Nah then you'd get the know it all holier than thou Google Warrior based clowns disputing anything that makes sense and is basic mechanical knowledge we are well grounded in.
Not worth it mech. as it will get turned around into a vitriolic troll calling lie fest when certain all pervading Euro or nothing agendas around here get remotely out of joint !
Latest tech is fine but it needs well grounded basic mechanical understanding and a vast amount of practical common sense know how expertise to be fully effective, this I fear is lacking with lots of "back yarder Google inspired" pseudo car fixers on the scene.
Those types I prefer to avoid like the plague !

as a guy found on his alloy tech commie at dealer fault code showed falt & cam timing & crank fault . New timing chains & crank sensor & still not &fixed so local garage had a go & found the crank angle wheel had slipped 30degrees didnt need new timing chains at all but still had to remove trans to get at it $$$

Phwoor . I'll bet it cost. so much for so called fault codes logged etc but the old timers type systematic approach came to the fore there eh . see what mechnificent & I have been talking about , now what we've said in this instance is proven beyond doubt !
Us old buggers do have our uses with common sense systematic ways of going about investigating things . plus deep seated and well grounded knowledge wins out every time, I wouldn't have it/do it any other way !
Plus lots of younger set tending to be impatient and not as well versed tend to give up easily where us old buggers don't give up until we're satisfied with successful outcome.

Hope the owner held back payment of dealer bill.