It was always the reservoir and it's several square inches of exposed fluid surface that allowed moisture to be absorbed by the fluid.
The manufacturers know that. I know that. why don't you Snoopy ?
snoopy221,
Oct 10, 4:35pm
Lol I did specify a vehicle with such an automatic adj system that has a finite adj end
ema1,
Oct 10, 4:42pm
Me too actually but we had to deal with stuff under warranty when it turned up as owners did get notified of recalls etc. that's what Service Managers are for. to organize us fixing it all . eh?
ema1,
Oct 10, 4:46pm
When it ends up in a bleed bottle it's all mixed in anyway, changing the fluid is insurance and highly recommended as protection against defective braking at any stage. I prefer to have good brakes. always ! NO IF's NO BUTS !
mechnificent,
Oct 10, 4:47pm
I told them I was only there for eighteen months and not to send me on training courses. I read bulletins that arrived while I was there, but yeah. leave it to the foreman or service manager to know the old bulletins. especially the service manager. they see every job that goes through, they are meant to know what's common and what isn't.
mechnificent,
Oct 10, 4:48pm
Yeah. and brake fluid is cheap.
mals69,
Oct 10, 5:17pm
Amazing the power of a comma.
snoopy221,
Oct 10, 6:10pm
Time for a LONG post. As STATED in #31 and referred to in #131. With wipe seals the most extreme would be without doubt the old **laser brakes**. As in an automatic adjustment system with a finite end. Which ALWYS led to a situation whereby there would be excessive travel meaning the line pressure and spring system would FAIL and the overtravelling (due to design fault) . Would mean adjustment AND bleeding. [As the toothed cam type of adjuster inherrantly ALWAYS stopped adjusting before the end of it’s adjustment-meaning as stated one COULD adjust that little bit more-and one HAD to bleed at that time to obtain a full pedal] Incedentaly if one simply googles the biggest improvement shown by google is the change from early (es in the old hoses without stamped SAE standards and a xxxxx cross type outside). As being less permeable
Before the application of modern flexible brake hose manufacturing techniques moisture was an issue. It would permeate through the hoses and into the fluid when the fluid cooled down. Modern hose manufacturing has eliminated this issue.
mechnificent,
Oct 10, 6:29pm
So it wasn't those cup washers? And we don't need to change the fluid every two years now. ?
Or is this digging out of a hole. google IS your friend !
mechnificent,
Oct 10, 6:31pm
How did people learn without google and youtube
The bad old days huh. when you had to pay attention to the lessons and read the books.
snoopy221,
Oct 10, 6:34pm
As i already said/WROTE way back. But some can't READ. ! When ya in a hole Stop Digging! Post #11 and #14. We STILL wait. LOL
mechnificent,
Oct 10, 7:35pm
If you want your head shot off Snoopy keep poking it up out of that hole. I'll go get your posts explaining how putting a concertina cup under the lid would have the same effect as blocking off the m/ cylinders delivery and return holes, and how "slide seals" let the moisture in and all the rest of your foolishness. best you go lay low with Intrade for a while. cause your on a hiding to nowhere here buddy.
snoopy221,
Oct 10, 7:49pm
Go ahead be my guest. Call me jmma and non concertinad old HQ master cyl rubber post#42. LOL Don't matter what ya do you still HAVE A HYGROSCOPIC LIQUID THAT NEEDS CHANGING PERIODICALY But as stated ain't me that is in a hole LOL
brake fluid by nature absorbs moisture from the atmosphere through the microscopic pores in brake lines and through the small vent in the reservoir. In fact brake fluid begins to take in moisture the moment you pour it into your braking system. After a year in service, brake fluid would have absorbed about 2% water and will have progressed to 3% water after only 18 months. These figures would be a lot higher in places that are humid and wet. Moisture in brake fluid decreases its boiling point – 2% water will reduce the brake fluid’s boiling point by 75°C. The boiling point drop becomes more pronounced as more moisture is absorbed. Moisture contamination heightens the risk of brake failure especially during extreme braking conditions like driving downhill or in constant stop and go in heavy traffic or when carrying heavy loads. Constant braking transmits a lot of heat to the brake fluid from the pads and rotors. If a considerable degree of moisture were present, these would easily boil off and form vapour which is extremely compressible and this is when the pedal starts feeling spongy and the brakes would not apply at all! This is the reason why there have been many cases of brake failures even if the braking systems were found to be mechanically in order. In fact, the brakes worked perfectly again after the system has cooled down and the vapour has condensed. Presence of vapour in the brake fluid also affects the performance of the Anti-lock brake systems (ABS). The ABS pulsates about 15 times a second and the brake fluid’s viscosity is an important factor for the proper operation of the ABS. The presence of moisture and/or vapour in the brake fluid alters its viscosity characteristics and will result in improper operation of the ABS.
snoopy221,
Oct 10, 8:43pm
The STATETMENT….[What all this means Intrade, is that that fluid that showed four percent water. was probably over ten and maybe near fifteen years old, and it had taken that long to get to that stage]
The FACTS After a year in service, brake fluid would have absorbed about 2% water and will have progressed to 3% water after only 18 months. These figures would be a lot higher in places that are humid and wet
ain't me that is in a hole LOL
ema1,
Oct 10, 9:37pm
If brakes aren't up to scratch for whatever reason folks you could well end up . ".IN A HOLE 6' DEEP" with a "wooden overcoat" on, think about that eh !
FULL STOP. it could literally be.
Think about this too. a full brake system overhaul is worth way less than your or indeed some else's life !
It's prudent to just do the job rather than debating what the water content is or whatever. life whether it's yours or some else's depends on it.
snoopy221,
Oct 10, 10:36pm
So do it every coupla years ema? As in changing a hygroscopic fluid. Or just leave the old stuff there for 15 years or so? Know i damn well change me oil at 5000,check and change me coolant(antifreeze) and change me brake fluid usually every coupla years
[Days of chckin and topping up batteries and thangs went out when we left generators for alternators. ] Mind you i admittedly do TOP UP my fuel-and screen washer liquid- Dat's aboot it-LOL Cheap maintenance items really to BE MAINTAINED. (As Required)
ema1,
Oct 11, 1:13am
I do 5000km/6 monthly( which ever comes first. important in cold-hot extremes of climate that are experienced in Central Otago.)oil changes without fail. always have always will, extended servicing distances don't cut it with me. end of !( Old School has paid off in over 50 years of vehicle ownership.) Brake Fluid every 2-3 years.without fail ! Coolant long life type every 5 years. previously every 2-3 years if I didn't use long life type coolant. eg Smiths Blucol. or Green Ethylene Glycol. I used to use Alfloc in any engines with alluminium engine components, along with coolant used. It's called routine owner preventative maintenance, which lots fail to do these days. or for that matter in the past as well and some wonder why they do have preventable issues, 6 times out of 10 wont blame themselves then again some issues can be beyond those keeping up said maintenance, that's called misfortune or issues of particular make/design. nothings perfect, some are more so than others, some irresponsible people tend to top that list don't forget that ! When I buy a car no matter what I do those items at the very start of by ownership no matter what then at intervals above if I own them that long.
mechnificent,
Oct 11, 11:12am
All that long post of cut-n-paste Snoopy is based on a premise that there is a hole in the reservoir cap. which was done away with long ago. And in the case of Intrades old black fluid, which I would estimate to be over ten years old, the water content was four percent. So how fast does the moisture really get in these days ?
Right from the start you have been denying that reservoir caps are sealed with a concertina. you want me to provide a picture of a sealed system. You think that master cylinder and wheel cylinders can suck air in like a bicycle pump.
You have some serious problems Snoopy and I don't want to aggravate them so I'm going to leave the last word to you.
You have a good day.
kazbanz,
Oct 13, 5:29pm
intrade Im genuinely curious. if "the lady" is only servicing her car at Toyota then how/why are you able to check the coolant and brake fluid ?
intrade,
Oct 13, 6:17pm
She was a friend of a women who i service vehicles for in auckland . So i said no problem i poped the bonnet mesured the oil pulled out my refractometer mesured the coolant and used my brake fluid tester and gave her the results. Later on i was told this women went to toyota and they said all was ok nothing needed doing .
intrade,
Oct 13, 6:21pm
kazbanz wrote:
intrade Im genuinely curious. if "the lady" is only servicing her car at Toyota then how/why are you able to check the coolant and brake fluid ?
She was a friend of a women who i service vehicles for in auckland . So i said no problem i poped the bonnet mesured the oil pulled out my refractometer mesured the coolant and used my brake fluid tester and gave her the results. Later on i was told this women went to toyota and they said all was ok nothing needed doing .
intrade,
Dec 24, 9:59pm
i then said to the women i service cars for. ummm Geez i told you there are all idiots. She said yes you did.
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