Turbo diesel has a worsening power loss - a bit like a surge in reverse. Have changed fuel filter and put some diesel bug killer and injector cleaner in which seemed to make it better. However it has returned and is worse. Have cleaned the air flow meter element. Any suggestions?
budgel,
Aug 7, 4:59am
Look for vacuum leaks in the turbo lines, or a leak in the charge pipe. Basically, check all the plumbing for the turbo. Maybe a bypass is stuck open.
intrade,
Aug 7, 5:01am
Ok airflow meter thats EFi pump now you have to do exactly what you would do to fix a non efi diesel and if it wont fix it you have ultra expensive repair cost or loads of messing diy in front of you.
intrade,
Aug 7, 5:05am
is there any smoke is the engine missing when the fault occures you need to give a ton more information. It will be difficult to diagnose it over the internet and One big more nightmare because you also have a electronic pump = they are more difficult to diagnose then commonrail if the fault is residing in electronics. having said that if its in the elctronics = you can basically scrap it.
intrade,
Aug 7, 5:09am
The most fastest test to see if it is a Diesel problem is to plumb in a external diesel tank feeding the diesel pump directly with Diesel. You also want a 300$ flashlight to look if the pump leaks and if the pump is plumbed to the engine oil see if diesel is in the oil from back seal of pump. thats the test to do if it acts exact the same with fresh external diesel your done= open ecu look for bad caps . or scrap it unless you can do loads of work your self . You could fix a commonrail more easy once you have electronic faults as commonrail parts are available and the pump has external electronics . as where that thing has internal electronics . calibration on commonrail is either automatic or you type in codes of injectors via scantool= 1850$ will buy you the scantool that you would pay just to test a efi pump on a bench there is loads different problems on more modern nissan not that you get a wrong idea that i said they are better.
intrade,
Aug 7, 5:26am
Now to what i would do if it got to be fixed cheap. "IF ITS FAULTY ELECTRONICALLY"
You need to test as above . then buy a knowen good wrack for donor parts to start swaptroning stuff over Till you found the fault . There is not much you would need to swap its not like a Bmw where the doorhandle could cause a no-start . But loads of work to strip a donor and you need the room to do it all. That would be the cheapest option to find a electronic fault = possible cause it has not got to much you would need to swap out . Word of warning i do have a story of a terrano potentially with that exact engine. some cheapskate did aquire it and had some problem so i took a look and got it going cant recall what was wrong for me to get it going think it had a bad glowtimer or something to make it go again. The guy had changed a faulty fuelpump . Once i got it going it turned out it also had a cracked head or gasket. Of course i declined to repair it as i dont work for cheapskates.
tweake,
Aug 7, 7:32am
i think that may be the version that had the troublesome injection pump. but as always check the cheap stuff first.
monaro17,
Aug 7, 7:45am
I can just about guarantee it will be the air flow sensor. Get it recalibrated, (elite auto electronics in chch do it) I had my one done years ago and it was outstanding the difference after it was done.
akfuel,
Aug 7, 8:43am
at idle do the revs go up and down by 100 -200 rpm by its self
Sounds like it's going to be a real expensive fix.
heads1st,
Dec 10, 9:43am
A mate of mine had a similar problem ~ turned out to be the filter where it goes into the injector pump. It was full of crap.
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