Can I reject both of my near new, 9 month old cars

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franc123, Mar 21, 3:29pm
Lol that's hilarious. Rest assured you are not getting every last drop of old oil out of the engine. That advice is actually bad at a particular level as it's possible to deprime the oil pump on some modern engines if an excessive drain period is permitted.
peanuts37, Mar 21, 3:42pm
Ive got a 2016 Honda Jazz 1.5 with 35,000kms on clock. Dealer serviced since new. Oil changed every 12 months at about 8,000kms. Oil after change is almost clear, after 8,000kms leaves a hokey pokey coloured stain on paper towel after wiping dipstick. No black deposit at all. Mainly used around town with occasional open road work.
rovercitroen, Mar 21, 5:07pm
Don't do that on a Ford Ranger or Mazda BT50 3.2 engine.
marte, Mar 21, 9:14pm
I wait till there's a drop every 4 seconds or more, put the plug back in, pour in a cup of new oil while I do the oil filter, and I near fill the oil filter with oil before I put it on.
Then undo the drain plug again & let the rest of the oil out, put it back in & fill it up & leave it for a while before checking the level, short drive & check & top it up again. This leaves me with enough oil from a 5L for top ups.

My oil filter that I cut open today just had some grains of carbon similar to the underside of the camshaft cover. If I crush it, it turns to fine dust then near dissolves.
The camshaft cover seal is a thin metal plate with sparkplug holes etc in it with rubber sealing molded to the steel sheet. Almost all the carbon was in between the sheet & the cover, not under the sheet & into the engine area. ( Which just looks silvery & golden/tan. )

I agree with the post above, they took the drain plug out, drained most of the oil, got suck of waiting/did the oil filter, put the ( new?!) plug back in & filled it up.
Midas told me that they 'just do the filter, pour new oil in ( using a hose from a tank ) wait underside till new oil starts coming out & put the plug back in ".
IO
nice_lady, Mar 22, 2:01am
Hubby changes the oil & filter in our two Hyundai Elantras, (2012 & 2013). The oil is still very clean and new looking weeks after. We each do about 15,000 Km per yr. There's no way any good oil change should result in dirty appearing oils after a couple of hundred Kms.
tygertung, Mar 22, 3:13am
I would think that it is a design fault if the pump should require priming after an oil change.
tgray, Mar 22, 3:52am
I guess some people like to appear smart by making others sound foolish, so I will be clearer in what I meant.
No, I don't think I'm getting ALL the old oil out of the engine by waiting until the drips stop. Obviously there is more in there. I simply meant I wait until the sump drain stops dripping before refilling.
If you find that hilarious, then so be it.
tygertung, Mar 22, 5:53am
I always wait until the sump has finished draining.

A scam I occasionally do if the oil is real grubby is to put a litre of diesel into the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes. Then drain. This is on engines without hydraulic lifters, but I haven't had to do it for a few years now.
kazbanz, Mar 22, 7:19am
Im trying to picture a scenario where draining all the oil from an engine could cause this issue. My mental camera must be screwed because I just can't picture it.
budgel, Mar 22, 9:41am
Isn't that an issue with Ford Rangers? It may be the injector pump that fails.
skull, Mar 22, 10:56am
It is a genuine issue with a Ford Ranger, time for a new camera kaz.
peanuts37, Mar 22, 11:13am
gpg58, Mar 22, 11:23am
Sorry for delay again, but took another day out here, to gather my thoughts.
I agree with those that say it should be still fairly clean at 8000, and even with any residual oil in it, new stuff should be fairly clean even 2000km+ later.
Yes we did the paper towel test first, which is what lead to changing it.
Would be nice if dealers would do as we ask, (like this early change which did not happen, imo), and go back to a change at first 1000km.

Showed photos to some holden folk today, while stocking up on 4 more filters for future changes, one thought perhaps he could partially see it happening on a turbo car, but not on mine.

Oil on a paper towel is still very near clear, after 380kms running since latest oil change.
Will continue to monitor it up to 1000kms, then change it again, and cut open that filter to compare.
Now have a socket set for the filters, but as said, filter was crushed by my old strap type, due to it being so tight it would not move, i have my own suspicions why.
Interesting to me also, is fuel consumption was slowly increasing still, on getting her back from service, and had climbed to 6.2/100 average.
Its now back at a steady 5.6/100, like it used to get a lot of the time.
Will wait until 1000kms are up, before doing anything further, but its seems that the car is fine, and not producing that discoloration prematurely, on what i see so far.
Exhaust is light grey colour.
May look back in later tonight, but back on anti depressants over this, so unsure when i will feel up to it.
intrade, Mar 22, 11:39am
read my oil thread and watch the fcp-euro video on site i posted.
look at the bright side you are smarter then most morons on here.
mrfxit, Mar 22, 11:52am
Sadly, I have read of this happening to specific models/brands.
No idea now but did read it on a few occasions not long ago.

Apparently you only have a few seconds after draining to get the new oil back in, or you have to prime the oil pump
intrade, Mar 22, 12:01pm
that will be the ranger i think if i recall correctly
mrcat1, Mar 22, 2:40pm
So have you actually sampled the oil to see what's trending and if oil is still within spec?
secca2, Mar 22, 4:22pm
I just drop the oil, then remove the filter so by the time I have lubed the new filter seals and installed the sump plug which I clean and apply a bit of three bond on the thread, the sump plug goes straight in, wasting time for nothing any more than that. after reading how some do their oil changes I'm surprised no one has said they remove the sump for each oil change!
gph1961, Mar 22, 4:53pm
wait for it
jmma, Mar 22, 4:56pm
Must have lead in your petrol?
differentthings, Mar 22, 5:27pm
looks like the oil is a lot cleaner than he's making it out to be as in the first photo
secca2, Mar 22, 5:35pm
actually, seals don't need seating in, automotive radial lip seal works by creating a thin layer of oil between the sealing lip and shaft
journal. Capillary action causes the oil to seep between the lip and the shaft, which results in the oil lifting the sealing lip clear of the shaft. This thin layer is retained and prevents leakage of the oil past the sealing lip.
pdc1, Mar 23, 3:18am
Some mothers do have them!
I’d be more worried if the oil wasn’t going dirty, as it means that it isn’t doing its job. I meet a nutter once that argued that one oil of a certain brand was shit because it had discoloured within a short time, and when he put the new brand in his vehicle it stayed clean so therefore was a much better oil.

Yeah, funny post, sounds like someone has purchased a car that they no longer want and want to get their money back and are looking for reasons.
Maybe "Not fit for purpose" maybe a better way?
tygertung, Mar 23, 4:14am
On the gas turbine engines I was last working on, there were a few different options for oils to use. Depending on which one was used, the engine would be extremely grubby inside and you'd get covered in horrible black dirty oil and have to put your overalls in the wash every shift.

The other oil type meant that the engine was lovely and clean inside.
gazzat22, Mar 23, 5:55am
You,ve blown it.! If you considered or were concerned the oil and filter(s) hadnt been changed you should have taken the vehicles straight back to the garage and shown them.!