also did you test all fuses? testlight on both sides of a fuse if one side of fuse has power so must the other side if not fuse is blown
intrade,
Mar 6, 6:42am
#53 only 2 things possible now check your fuel pump works and timing has not jumped on belt. also when you do this throttle should be opened half way at least . but id check timing belt not loose first as you dont want to bend valves . it did try to fire up on what ever you did spray in there= its got spark
intrade,
Mar 6, 7:03am
if timing belt is tight under the black cover engine you fuse for fuelpump is fine you go under the car and bash on the bottom of fuel tank when someone cranks it . if it fires up then you have a bad fuel-pump rusted potentially from ethanol petrol as cause or general end of live. usually a pump will make noises if she is end of live. if this dont works you have to mesure power on tank usually under rear seat is the hatch to get to fuelpump and petrol sender.
karlo,
Mar 6, 7:56am
No luck with the pedal test - probably car too old for that.
karlo,
Mar 6, 7:58am
Fuel tank bashing done already - no change.
karlo,
Mar 6, 11:15am
A mechanic friend of mine (who lives in another city) saw the video clip I made and he believes it's the cambelt issue. BTW: the cambelt and water pump (also thermostat) was recently changed by a qualified mechanic (I did pay LOTS of money for that).
gph1961,
Mar 6, 1:34pm
have watched video do this dont argue put that spray can away remove spark plugs they will be wet i know they are new,but get some more new ones dont fit them yet charge battery(again) 24 hours fit new spark plugs hold wide open throttle
crank engine,dont stop cranking,be brave dont stop cranking stop cranking when starter fully over run by engine slowly release WOT
karlo,
Mar 8, 6:46am
Thanks Ronny. Honestly, even if I buy it, I wouldn't know what to do with it :(
karlo,
Mar 8, 6:48am
All fuses tested OK
intrade,
Mar 8, 6:54am
get the cambelt checked and rotated to ot should show mark on top align up. before you crank it further. then fuel-pressure test. a mechanic will know what i wrote if not you better dont let the guy touch your car. will be 30 minute to check timing with top cover removed to see marks and another 30min to do a fuel pressure test.
kazbanz,
Mar 8, 7:50am
Based ONLY on that Vid is sounds like the battery hasn't got enough oomph to fire the plugs and turn the car over fast enough. . You MIGHT get it to start and clear the plugs by just jump starting it off of another car --with decent jumper leads. You have nothing to loose by giving it a go. The flatter the battery gets the slower its turning over and the plugs are getting more and more fouled up. So I agree. --Put the battery on charge now . Pull the plugs out and throw in a brand new set. With fully charged battery it sounds like its going to go
karlo,
Mar 8, 8:27am
Is timing belt tight enough - I don't know, looks ok to me, but I'm no expert. Have a look at the link below (PS: adjust the screen brightnes to the max)
how much pressure did you use to push the belt it looks to loose to me if you only just touched it, normally one side is tighter then the other this looked like it was loose on both side the same
intrade,
Mar 8, 10:04am
on flywheel is a mark 0 or ot align this up and find the mark on top sproket if its not there you have to rotate the lower pully once again and it has to be there. carjam.co.nz post engine code and google timing marks
Really? Surely you jest dear Sir As to your claim Engine starts very briefly (for a second or two) and then stops. [post#1] We do NOT see this in your video [post#53]
So perhaps ALL spark plugs removed and suitably earthed and high tension leads fitted and a video showing if they actually produce spark when engine cranked or not?
bwg11,
Mar 8, 12:24pm
Have I had ballast coil systems wrong for years, I thought it was an 8 volt coil running 8 volts via the resistor, but while starting 12 volts were applied to the coil to compensate for voltage drop during starting? But, this is not your problem, either the sparks or fuel system is failing after the initial start. Cam timing (or other things) could be setting an error code in the computer which inhibits running. Good luck with a cure.
intrade,
Mar 8, 12:54pm
there is probably more them 1 version the ford i changed a coil was 12 volt with ballast
strobo,
Mar 8, 2:23pm
I think if he were to leave the plugs out and pulled the fuel pump relay but not the pump fuse .then crank quite a few times then fit brand new plugs,replace relay then crank to go from there.Those plugs apparently cleaned I doubt it! , cleaned is when they have been sand blasted and the electrodes are filed back and re gaped which is not recommended nowadays.carbon is caked on tracking ! Should be a bright blue spark not yellow.Also test all the HT leads for ohms resistance values!
marte,
Mar 8, 6:37pm
Not a buggered condensor is it? That still gives a thin Blue spark, but not enough to fire the engine properly
And some coils are internally ballasted, ' Self ballasted' . Putting one in place of a non ballast one messes things up.
I had a Cortina where the wires were messed up, started on 9 volts & run on 12. Condensor died on one rural trip. Maybe because of that.
gph1961,
Mar 9, 1:13am
rat up tailpipe
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