Or, they might fix it in less than an hour, which would make their astonomical labour rate quite cheap.
Ask them for a diagnostic scan and a quote on the repairs.
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 5:35am
Yeah i hear what you guys are saying, and ill get them to do the scan (there scan is only $35, so ther cheap in that respect) what bothers me is, if im not getting a code now, is the scanner going to come back with anything!
And if it comes back with nothing, what should i do then!
I do thank you guys for all the assistance
outbidyou2,
Aug 12, 5:45am
On your way there hit the boost a few times (dont thrash it) and hopefully itll log a code. Good luck man
outbidyou2,
Aug 12, 5:48am
Knock sensor Id say
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 5:55am
Yeah im picking knock sensor also, cause it can retard timing cant it!
Could fuel (running 95) do it! someone suggested run 98 and id like to, be to be honest, i dont believe it for this reason, these cars were around when highest we could get was 95, so are we trying to say that they all had the issue then! i think not
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 6:11am
Or, could it be spark plugs bad gap! OR could it be insufficient fuel! (i have had fuel pressure tested and its constant)
NZTools,
Aug 12, 6:46am
So after all this, you still havnt tried running it on the (closest to) correct fuel, and basic stuff like replacing the spark plugs!
A faulty knock sensor could easily overly sensative, yet still not trip a code as it is within the normal scale, allbeit at the far end of the scale.Running it on 95 with worn plugs could easily amplify the problem.
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 6:52am
I see what ya saying but. plugs aren't old. however I will swap them. so sensor can be faulty but not trip codes! I don't believe 95to be the problem. I mean come on.
other reason I say this is had another one which was an auto could run it on 95 issue free.
what plugs do you suggest I go for
NZTools,
Aug 12, 6:57am
Your car is designed to run on 100. Running it on 95 means the ecu has to retard the ignition timing further than it would on 100 to avoid detonation. Run it on 91, and the ecu will retard the ignition further again. All the ignition retarding means a loss in power, and a sunsequent increase in fuel consumption . (with the ignition retarded, yuo have to put your foot down further to achieve the same result.
Add into the mix a faulty knock sensor, and it just gets worse and worse.
NZTools,
Aug 12, 6:59am
Just for shits and giggles, try running it on 95 for a month, record your fuel usage/kms traveled, then do the same running it on 98 for a month. You will find it has more power and is cheaper to run on 98.
outbidyou2,
Aug 12, 7:01am
Id go for knock sensor before plugs mate, knock sensor will be under the intercooler bolted to the top of the block. If you're doing plugs, you might as well do tensioners, seals etc etc $$
outbidyou2,
Aug 12, 7:07am
Oh and buy a NEW knock sensor, when youre trying to eliminate faults, dont use second hand gear
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 7:11am
Yeah, ill try the knock sensor and running it on 98.
Whats weird is the auto one i had, same year etc etc etc, never retarded on 95, i did replace the plugs with high spec ones when it had done 92000k, this one has done 116000k. I reckon could be wrong plugs! but wouldnt that make it miss or jump also!
I do realise they prefer to be run on 98 :).
Out of interest, does anyone know what the "BEST" plug to put in one of these is! *edit* and gap!
dodge62,
Aug 12, 7:16am
Subaru turbo's have to run on platnium plugs, otherwise you have powerloss due to miss firing. Jap imports come with different compression ratio's, so to play it save, run it on RON98. Have a look on the IDplate on the LHf strut tower under the bonnet, it will tel you the engine type. Het will be something like EJ20., the all are ej20, but the 3thand 4th number or letter tels you what type of ej20 it is. I have a EJ205, you might have a EJ207, you can find out on the net what the specs are on the motor you have ect. good luck
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 7:21am
Mine is an EJ205, what plugs do you run and gap please ! :)
dodge62,
Aug 12, 7:27am
I run NGK platinium plugs,with a gap of 0.9 mm. I had a lean running problem too, but it was still boosting good, to good,so it melted the block. And it didn't had any fault codes either, it was running lean due to dirty injectors, had them cleaned when I replaced the block, no problems ever since.
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 7:44am
Dam, hope i dont run into that. That seems like a really big gap, all the ones i read about say 0.04. How many km had you done when your injectors leaned out!
dodge62,
Aug 12, 7:46am
0,04 is inches, I'm talking of 0.9 mm. I had done 85k when it packed up.
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 7:48am
ok, any signs of it doing it!
usdefault,
Aug 12, 7:53am
Vacuum leak only showing under load.
dodge62,
Aug 12, 7:53am
no, it drives fine, mine ,the power increased for a second, and then it was over. like you see in a F1 race. lol
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 7:55am
its def not a leak on mine, tested everything. Its def not BOV or wastegate, they have also been tested.
I have a feeling that someone has replaced the plugs at some stage, but not done the right gap or right plug.
Would that cause a det!
Does anyone else use 95 with no issues!
dodge62,
Aug 12, 7:57am
a other thing to check is a leak between intake manifold, boost controle valve, turbo waste gate box, if there is a leak, de ecu cuts off the boost,when the boost goes over 14 psi, to stop you of blowing it up. (safty)
snoopy221,
Aug 12, 8:03am
Dunno if i read it roit-but i'd sorta say from post one it is a twin turbd rex. And in my honest opinion a BOV on a twin turb will do EXACTLY what ya state. If it's twin turb with an aftermarket BOV REMOVE IT. Then tell us all aboot it pal.
pc_evo,
Aug 12, 8:04am
Yeap i hear ya, but its def not leaking had it all tested by a guy that builds racecars, he replaced boost control solenoid cause it was faulty. He also tested boost pressure, and its never over 13psi. When he graphed what is going on it hits peak, then retards itself a little, then tries to get back up to peak pressure again. (im 99% sure its not a turbo or leak issue :))
Just did an NGK search, and noticed something interesting.
When i search for a plug but didnt pay attention to the jap import or not, i get plug 02/94 - 09/98 SUBARU Impreza 2.0L WRX, DOHC, 155kW EJ20G PFR6B Gap 0.8
BUT
When i searched again, and put it in as a Jap import one : 12/01 - on Subaru Impreza 2000 WRX STi Turbo EJ205 (i know it says STI, and this one isnt, but the engine number IS correct) i get PFR7G.
I assume the later is the correct plug cause its the same engine type!
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